396 SOLID FLAT TAPPET

[dualquad]

My dad wants to upgrade the cam in his chevelle. The motor is a '66 360hp 396 that has crane roller rockers, Holley 750DP, and a ( mismatch ) GM 375hp alum. rect. port intake, and headers. Otherwise it's stock. My dad wants to upgrade the cam. He said that he was thinking about a hyd. roller, but that would be "hard" to justify the expense. I told him for about the same expense he could upgrade to a solid flat tappet and have the heads cut for 2.19 x 1.88 valves. He would also have to by valves, of course. But, I would do the bowls and ssr for him. I think this would be his best bang for the buck. Don't you?
So, Here is the current set up.
1967 chevelle approx. 3800lbs
396 .030 over 10.25-1
stock oval port heads w/2.06 x 1.72 valves
750 dp on a GM rect. port. intake ( actually works alright )
Hyd. GM cam 220/220 @ .050 .500/.500 114 ls ( I believe these are the cam specs. It's been awhile )
1 3/4" primary headers with 3" mandrel bent exhaust
Turbo 400 with 3000 stall ( conv. is borrowed. so could go up to 3500 if cam swap makes it necessary )
3.73 12bolt posi
So, I've been looking at cams to see what looks like it would make good power to about 6500rpm and work well with a 3000 to 3500 stall.
Here are 2 Lunati cams that I am liking
Lunati Drag race TL2 tight lash solid flat tappet
advertised duration : 276/284
duration @ .050 : 247/255
gross lift : .612/.634
LSA/ICL : 108/102
lash : .016/.018
RPM range : 2500 to 6500
The description for this cam says : STUMP PULLER, HEAVY CAR, TIGHT CONVERTER, 10-1 + COMPRESSION, 350 + GEARS.

Here is the other cam.
Lunati Street/Strip solid flat tappet
advertised duration : 276/284
duration @ .050 : 243/251
gross lift : .586/.600
LSA/ICL : 110/104
lash : .026/.030
RPM range : 2500 to 6800
Desription: EXCELLENT STREET/BRACKET RACING CAM WITH VERY STRONG MID RANGE AND TOP END TORQUE AND HP. NEEDS 2500 RPM STALL CONVERTER, 9.5 TO 1 COMPRESSION AND 3.73 GEARING. FAIR IDLE.

Anybody running one of these cams?
I assume the first cam is a newer/more aggressive grind, since the adv. dur. is same as other cam, but .050 dur is larger.
Also, the first cam has slightly lower rpm range, I assume the 108 LSA has to do with the lower rpm range, which I prefer.
Does anyone like these cams? Which one? Any other camshaft you believe would be better.
Also, this car is just a weekend fun car. Some dragstrip action. Mostly burnout fun. Just sayin, My dad will LIKE an aggressive cam, as long as it is not to big for the converter, he does not want to have to put over a 3500 rpm converter in it.
Also, any suggestions on VALVES? I don't want to get something that will fail. I see some lower priced valves, but I know nothing about them. So, I will probably get REV valves, unless there are some lower priced valves that are acceptable quality. I know this isn't a 8500 RPM solid roller motor. Does anyone trust some lower priced valves for a 6500 - 7000rpm flat tappet BBC? If so, Let me know. Save dad some $$$$ so he can get a vic jr. or something. THANKS

[rally]

My dad wants to upgrade the cam in his chevelle. The motor is a '66 360hp 396 that has crane roller rockers, Holley 750DP, and a ( mismatch ) GM 375hp alum. rect. port intake, and headers. Otherwise it's stock. My dad wants to upgrade the cam. He said that he was thinking about a hyd. roller, but that would be "hard" to justify the expense. I told him for about the same expense he could upgrade to a solid flat tappet and have the heads cut for 2.19 x 1.88 valves. He would also have to by valves, of course. But, I would do the bowls and ssr for him. I think this would be his best bang for the buck. Don't you?
So, Here is the current set up.
1967 chevelle approx. 3800lbs
396 .030 over 10.25-1
stock oval port heads w/2.06 x 1.72 valves
750 dp on a GM rect. port. intake ( actually works alright )
Hyd. GM cam 220/220 @ .050 .500/.500 114 ls ( I believe these are the cam specs. It's been awhile )
1 3/4" primary headers with 3" mandrel bent exhaust
Turbo 400 with 3000 stall ( conv. is borrowed. so could go up to 3500 if cam swap makes it necessary )
3.73 12bolt posi
So, I've been looking at cams to see what looks like it would make good power to about 6500rpm and work well with a 3000 to 3500 stall.
Here are 2 Lunati cams that I am liking
Lunati Drag race TL2 tight lash solid flat tappet
advertised duration : 276/284
duration @ .050 : 247/255
gross lift : .612/.634
LSA/ICL : 108/102
lash : .016/.018
RPM range : 2500 to 6500
The description for this cam says : STUMP PULLER, HEAVY CAR, TIGHT CONVERTER, 10-1 + COMPRESSION, 350 + GEARS.

Here is the other cam.
Lunati Street/Strip solid flat tappet
advertised duration : 276/284
duration @ .050 : 243/251
gross lift : .586/.600
LSA/ICL : 110/104
lash : .026/.030
RPM range : 2500 to 6800
Desription: EXCELLENT STREET/BRACKET RACING CAM WITH VERY STRONG MID RANGE AND TOP END TORQUE AND HP. NEEDS 2500 RPM STALL CONVERTER, 9.5 TO 1 COMPRESSION AND 3.73 GEARING. FAIR IDLE.

Anybody running one of these cams?
I assume the first cam is a newer/more aggressive grind, since the adv. dur. is same as other cam, but .050 dur is larger.
Also, the first cam has slightly lower rpm range, I assume the 108 LSA has to do with the lower rpm range, which I prefer.
Does anyone like these cams? Which one? Any other camshaft you believe would be better.
Also, this car is just a weekend fun car. Some dragstrip action. Mostly burnout fun. Just sayin, My dad will LIKE an aggressive cam, as long as it is not to big for the converter, he does not want to have to put over a 3500 rpm converter in it.
Also, any suggestions on VALVES? I don't want to get something that will fail. I see some lower priced valves, but I know nothing about them. So, I will probably get REV valves, unless there are some lower priced valves that are acceptable quality. I know this isn't a 8500 RPM solid roller motor. Does anyone trust some lower priced valves for a 6500 - 7000rpm flat tappet BBC? If so, Let me know. Save dad some $$$$ so he can get a vic jr. or something. THANKS

Sir, what are the oval port head casting numbers he is currently using on that 396? Are they 063 heads? These heads have small combustion chambers, this will bump up the compression. Install new valve guides before you cut the new seats for the bigger valves. Have those heads cut for 2.19 intake, 1.88 exhaust valves. I would get some good quality valves. Clean up the bowls underneath the valves. Gasket match the intake you want to use. I would use a good dual plane intake for that application. A good Edelbrock Air Gap dual plane intake would be your best bet. Great low and mid range power. You do not need a single plane on that 396. That intake will run strong to 6800 RPMs. Flat tappet soild cam is a choice. Cheaper than putting in a roller cam. Call Comp Cams, talk to a good rep there, they can get the right cam you are looking for that application. Go on ebay, you can find a good used oval port Air Gap intake to buy for a good price. Those 396-360 horsepower motors came with a forged crank. The bottom end is strong enough to support 6500 RPMs.

[rfoll]

CC the heads and deck before you buy a cam. I have never found a Chevy engine to have the static compression ratio they advertise. If you add the additional CCs of the new composition head gasket, you will lose at least 1/4 point of compression from that alone.

[Dan Timberlake]

Aren't there a few threads here saying OEM BBC lifter bores tear up roller lifters for various reasons? That would sure steer me away from a roller cam.

[vortecpro]

My dad wants to upgrade the cam in his chevelle. The motor is a '66 360hp 396 that has crane roller rockers, Holley 750DP, and a ( mismatch ) GM 375hp alum. rect. port intake, and headers. Otherwise it's stock. My dad wants to upgrade the cam. He said that he was thinking about a hyd. roller, but that would be "hard" to justify the expense. I told him for about the same expense he could upgrade to a solid flat tappet and have the heads cut for 2.19 x 1.88 valves. He would also have to by valves, of course. But, I would do the bowls and ssr for him. I think this would be his best bang for the buck. Don't you?
So, Here is the current set up.
1967 chevelle approx. 3800lbs
396 .030 over 10.25-1
stock oval port heads w/2.06 x 1.72 valves
750 dp on a GM rect. port. intake ( actually works alright )
Hyd. GM cam 220/220 @ .050 .500/.500 114 ls ( I believe these are the cam specs. It's been awhile )
1 3/4" primary headers with 3" mandrel bent exhaust
Turbo 400 with 3000 stall ( conv. is borrowed. so could go up to 3500 if cam swap makes it necessary )
3.73 12bolt posi
So, I've been looking at cams to see what looks like it would make good power to about 6500rpm and work well with a 3000 to 3500 stall.
Here are 2 Lunati cams that I am liking
Lunati Drag race TL2 tight lash solid flat tappet
advertised duration : 276/284
duration @ .050 : 247/255
gross lift : .612/.634
LSA/ICL : 108/102
lash : .016/.018
RPM range : 2500 to 6500
The description for this cam says : STUMP PULLER, HEAVY CAR, TIGHT CONVERTER, 10-1 + COMPRESSION, 350 + GEARS.

Here is the other cam.
Lunati Street/Strip solid flat tappet
advertised duration : 276/284
duration @ .050 : 243/251
gross lift : .586/.600
LSA/ICL : 110/104
lash : .026/.030
RPM range : 2500 to 6800
Desription: EXCELLENT STREET/BRACKET RACING CAM WITH VERY STRONG MID RANGE AND TOP END TORQUE AND HP. NEEDS 2500 RPM STALL CONVERTER, 9.5 TO 1 COMPRESSION AND 3.73 GEARING. FAIR IDLE.

Anybody running one of these cams?
I assume the first cam is a newer/more aggressive grind, since the adv. dur. is same as other cam, but .050 dur is larger.
Also, the first cam has slightly lower rpm range, I assume the 108 LSA has to do with the lower rpm range, which I prefer.
Does anyone like these cams? Which one? Any other camshaft you believe would be better.
Also, this car is just a weekend fun car. Some dragstrip action. Mostly burnout fun. Just sayin, My dad will LIKE an aggressive cam, as long as it is not to big for the converter, he does not want to have to put over a 3500 rpm converter in it.
Also, any suggestions on VALVES? I don't want to get something that will fail. I see some lower priced valves, but I know nothing about them. So, I will probably get REV valves, unless there are some lower priced valves that are acceptable quality. I know this isn't a 8500 RPM solid roller motor. Does anyone trust some lower priced valves for a 6500 - 7000rpm flat tappet BBC? If so, Let me know. Save dad some $$$$ so he can get a vic jr. or something. THANKS

I would not put 1.880/2.190 valves in a 396 bore, I would stick with the 1.720/2.065 valve and do the porting. I would cam it around .540/240/108 flattappet solid lifter, as much as I hate to say it, probably I would have the "King of Cams" grind it because that would probably give you the best chance of the cam living. My reasons for not using a 1.880/2.190 valve:

1. Valves too big for the bore
2. Possible piston to valve clearance issues
3. Intake port would stall after .500 lift with out flow bench development with a 2.190 valve

[Old Viking]

Keep the GM rect port intake. I'm using one on my 427 with pp-heads and a small mech cam. Dynoed 450+ and revs 6000 no problems.

I like the stock/org app under the hood.

Good Luck!

[oldhead]

BESURE TO CHECK VALVE TO PISTON CLEARENCE Oldhead

[cv67]

What no tunnel ram or dual quads?

J/K of course!!

still love solid flat tappets myself..if I had more cubes Id go back to one for simplicities sake

[stokerboats]

Hard to beat the chevy high rise on that oval head. It just works very well.

[F-BIRD'88]

Camshaft 1. Crane F304-2 #113841

The factory PN 3863143 396-375 hp sold lifter street cam is good too.
Crane "BluePrint" #969961

Isky Z-45 #396245

Lunati //Harold Berkshire/Ultradyne (UDHarold) camshaft # 30110512 (402A3LUN)
Lots of the Chevelle forum guys use and like this one.
Harold Berkshire (UDHarold) used to highly recommend it for this very application.
Its a good one.

When using a hi perf flat tappet camshaft I like to add a Moly/zinc anti wear additive
to the oil.
I use and recomend this stuff.
http://www.molyslip.com MolySlip E Oil Supplement. It works.

[F-BIRD'88]

I would not put the big 2.19 1.88 valves in the 396 closed chamber oval port heads either.
The hot tip is a 2.12-2.14 valve in this head. with correct porting. The 1.72" exhaust valve is fine in this head.
Porting wakes it up.

U MUST check rocker arm slot to rocker stud clearance at full valve lift with stock BBC GM rockers and high lift cams (over530-540lift)
You can lengthen the slot or buy long slot rockers.
Be sure to use a correct valve spring for any all these cams.

[F-BIRD'88]

Although the GM LS-6 square port aluminum hi rise dual plane manifold seems to work on the oval port heads
I bet that a correct Oval port Edelbrock Performer RPM intake will be a lot better on this motor.
A dyno test A-B comparision would be interesting.

DualQuad....! Did someone say DualQuad???.... The Edelbrock Performer RPM Dual Quad hi rise
would be HOT HOT HOT on this motor with any of these lil Solid cams.

Use 600 or 750 Edelbrocks Be ready to go fast.

Get really short slicks or get some 4.56 gears for this Chevelle and hang on.

[steve316]

When installing cam and timing set check lobe to lifter alignment to have a cam that lasts instead of problems down the road. I have found bbc to be off sometimes. Good luck Steve

[F-BIRD'88]

On as SBC and BBC motor with a flat tappet cam and flat tappet lifters the camshaft finds it own happy spot
for and aft under the lifters. The taper on the lobes and the convex lifter face ensure this.
This alsdo makes the lifters spin in their bores when its running.
Do not restrict the camshaft position in the block. That is only for roller cams.
Do not use a cam button on any flat tappet cammed motor.

[F-BIRD'88]

If you have to buy everything consider this.
The Comp cams Extreme energy SOLID Street Roller cams and Complete KIT work REALLY GOOD in these motors.
The K Kit has e3verything except pushrods and the cam button.
EG Comp cams K11-771-8 CB XR280 R-10
This lil XE Solid street roller will rock in this motor. I like to set the valve lash COLD about .004"-.006" LESS than cam card hot lash spec. Simple , reliable.
These XE SOLID Street Roller cams are reliable and very powerfull. Great on street/Strip BBC's .
This one is just right.
Another Solid street roller I like is the Comp cams Magnum (special Dual pattern cam) CB 280A-R10 11-691-9

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIEMy0bIDnA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M61ZPqGQovQ

Joe Sherman is the real deal when it comes to this Street strip 396 build. "StormWarning"
Ported oval port cloded chamber , Edelbrock Dual Quad RPM Hi rise Manifold XR280R10 street roller dyno tested 557 HP

You might ask Him about the valve sizes he used.
http://www.joeshrmanracing.com