Head Studs or Bolts?

[PackardV8]

INSTALLATION METHOD FOR HEAD STUD KITS
Part Number: 234-4341 Application: Dart LS Next, iron block, 23 bolt head

NOTE: The following torque recommendation is based on the stud capability only. Please refer
the block manufacturer’s recommendation before proceeding with final assembly.
1. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages. Please call 800-
826-3045 with any questions or issues.
2. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean all threads in the block. Chase if
necessary with ARP Thread Chaser, part number 911-0003 (3/8-16), 911-0004 (7/16-14) and 912-0001 (M8 X 1.25).
3. Install the studs into the block and cylinder head per locations listed below. Do not apply torque. The hex broach in
the end of the stud is designed to assist with installing/removing the studs from the block, not for applying torque.
Location Stud Dimensions
1-6 7/16 x 3.450” overall length
7-8 7/16 x 3.650” overall length
9-10 7/16 x 3.450” overall length
11-15 M8-5/16” x 2.550” overall length
16-19 3/8 x 2.250” overall length
20-23 M8-5/16” x 2.725 overall length. These studs install into the bottom of the cylinder head.
4. Install the head gasket(s)
5. Install the cylinder head(s) and check for binding or misalignment.
6. Place the washers over the studs then lubricate the stud threads and bottom of the nut.

[Tom68]

Any builders want to comment on the old idea of putting a BB (round pellet) at the bottom of a tapped hole so that installed studs don't bottom out? Never done it but I recall it being mentioned.

That would be to set the height wouldn't it as an alternative to loctite.

[DCal]

When I had a racecar with lots of room around the engine I used studs but in my street Camaro I used head bolts in case the heads had to come off.

[Kevin Johnson]

Any builders want to comment on the old idea of putting a BB (round pellet) at the bottom of a tapped hole so that installed studs don't bottom out? Never done it but I recall it being mentioned.

That would be to set the height wouldn't it as an alternative to loctite.

This is what I remember (thread from about ten years ago): viewtopic.php?t=34357

[54chevkiwi]

Thanks for the input. Odd though. When I previously posted pictures of my previous engine.....many people told me that my cylinders would leak, and I had to do something about the shadowing.....now it seems nobody here is posting any concern about it. One reason why I never believe everything I read.....but makes it difficult in making decisions. ??????

And remember....this is a new Dart SHP block....thicker than a factory Chevy block, and probably better material.

And I guess I still am wondering if studs would be better than bolts.....given studs will not be applying any real twisting forces to the heads....whereas bolts do.

Dude, get a set of bolts and a set of studs, bolt a head on with each and measure the cylinders through the bottom of the block. It'll be close enough to tell you what you need to know with what you're doing won't it? I doubt it'll be hundreds of thousandths out in any way. I say either don't worry about it, or put half studs and half bolts in each cylinder and run it. That, or go with what your machinist says instead of overthinking it and listening to mates or asking the committee.

Edit: overthinking. I'm the king of that. The old engine is gone, problem gone. For what you're doing, follow the advice in the first reply and move on.

[jsgarage]

Grumpy also said when using studs and some locking chemical, to torque a head on before the glue set up, as he found studs leaning a bit a day or so later. That meant they would be 'slightly' bent sideways during final torquing, and heads were harder to install & remove.

[Kevin Johnson]

Any builders want to comment on the old idea of putting a BB (round pellet) at the bottom of a tapped hole so that installed studs don't bottom out? Never done it but I recall it being mentioned.

That would be to set the height wouldn't it as an alternative to loctite.

I am sure this was done to prevent the threads on the ends of the studs from being messed up when the stud was bottomed out in the tapped hole. I have seen many parts destroyed because the stud was driven into the imperfect threads in the tapped hole and when the stud was backed out the messed up threads on the stud ruined the threads in the part. Another way to prevent it is to turn a dog point on the end of the stud.
WAYNE-O, FEB 19, 2012SHARE POST#9

[Tom68]

Needless to say you shouldn't screw a stud in deeper than the female thread is fully cut.

[HQM383]

One place the ball bearing in thread hole is mentioned

[Flyboy1958]

Thanks guys.....I think I will just use the AFR head bolt set I have used in the past.