OEM 351w block and stud girdle?
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OEM 351w block and stud girdle?
At what point (power or rpm) would main studs and a stud girdle be recommended on a factory 351w block? Later 80's block if that matters. Also 3.85" stroke.
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?
The factory bolts are probably as good as the block. I do usually put arp bolts or studs in with anything over a basic stock build. The main girdle just makes pan and pick up tube a pain to install. I have run a bunch of 302/351’s with a girdle but I don’t anymore. Didn’t see a benefit.
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?
Main cap cracking of the plain cast iron main caps is the major issue.
Machining the top of the main cap flat and putting a 1/2" thick STEEL strap across it with 460 Ford main bolts works just as well; sometimes better.
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?
At the 475-525hp level with a 3.85" stroke, for a non racecar application, do you guys feel that anything beyond stock is even necessary? The stock 2 bolt mains appear pretty beefy.
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?
If you polish over all the sharp edges on the main caps but for the parting line they will hold up a good amount longer before cracking.
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?
we turned a 4.0" stroke steel crank 8k rpm all the time with just main studs in a late 70s block. after 400 passes, took a cap off and had zero cap walk. they are fine, at least at a zero balance with light rods and pistons.
"Anyone who thinks the low RPM engine will be faster just does not have as much experience as the rest of us" -The late, great Joe Sherman.
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You wont beat anyone if you do everything the same as everyone.