old school vs modern, can it be done

General engine tech -- Drag Racing to Circle Track

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old school vs modern, can it be done

Postby team 48 » Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:52 am

I am new to the board and would like to thank all for there time and experiance, willing to help all. My question is does anybody know were to find data on stock gm 2 barrel intakes. Reading has led me to believe a canadian intake is supost to be best. 2nd question when running pretty much stock gm 350, o deck, flat top pistons, stock stroke, gm cast iron 2 barrel intake, 4412 holley. whats the best combo with stock parts. no roller cam but can run a solid. almost forgot street type headers but exhaust must exit behind the driver max 2 inch pipe OD. I have a set of camel back heads but we can run stock vortec. Is there enough advantage to spring for vortec with the other limitations. In the past I turned 6300 rpm max. 1/4 mile dirt track, 8 inch tire, 3000lb car power glide. Those are the rules, some are pushing it with lighter weight bottom ends, which I know is an advantage,but also illegal, just looking for the best combo for a legal engine. Were only racing for a couple hundred here. If I wanted to spend the big ones I would move up. It is a hobby. I know alot of the engine builders started here and know some good combos for this type of class. Please share. Thank you all.
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Postby shawn » Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:58 am

What's the rules on the heads, intake, and carb? Can you touch them at all? Port work allowed?
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Postby team 48 » Fri Jan 19, 2007 12:41 pm

Rules say clean up for flatness on the heads, most are going way behond that. Milling to the max, nobody DQ there. tech man isn't very sharp to say the least. They have a bore scope but I haven't seen it used in 2 years. They also have a complete set of carb tools the type nascar uses, again haven't seen those used in 2 years either. No tubber. They did borrow one one time. They did DQ one guy for berzinski heads, so I was told, that was a inspection they did away from the track because of dust and know teck barn. When the guy starts last and laps all but one car they new something was up, (think da) I would have been alot smarter than that. He wasted alot of $. I think the intake and exhaust rule are the main killers. Thinking the intake could get away with maybe a acid port if needed. I am not that familiar with intake & head flow vs velocity to know witch way to go. Thank you
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Postby Cobra » Fri Jan 19, 2007 1:48 pm

Is there a claimer rule?
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Postby Jeff » Fri Jan 19, 2007 5:02 pm

You mention lighter bottom ends are illegal, so should we assume that gm crank and rods are all that is allowed ? How about pistons ,any rules other then flat top, or compression rules? As far as 2 barrels, the racers I deal with say they do not notice a difference from running a 4 barrel, or diffrent 2 barrels that we have tried with the 4412. Are you allowed carb spacers? The vortec would be a good head, but a lighter casting then the double humps.
Also just because a guy starts in the back, do not always assume they are cheating because they move to the front. If you are just starting out look at your own driving ability and car setup. If you lack either all the power in the world will not help you win a race.

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Postby Procision-Auto » Fri Jan 19, 2007 5:32 pm

Are you allowed to use longer rods? How about turning the crank down
and modifying the weights?

Oil pan mods? Oil pump and pressure mods? Cam drive; is belt allowed?
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Postby bullheaded » Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:40 pm

I help a guy who runs a similar deal.Did a set of vortecs and man did it bring that thing to life. He was also running camel humps previous.He runs the vortec marine 2bbl. intake. They said we could redrill the intake face for a standard but the port match was way off,so he shelled out the extra bucks for the marine deal.Rules say cast iron only intakes only and this cost about double what an aluminum intake costs.I love rules meant to save you money.

I did cut .045 off the heads,about the most you can take and still seal the gaskets.The decks on these heads are very thin.Also put in 2.02-1.6 valves.
We have to run exh manifolds,so we tried some different exh. stuff.The x-pipe and the 2 into 1 were both faster than just straight tail pipes.

Also get friendly with a good cam grinder,the right cam can do wonders for this combo.
The more I know,the harder it gets.
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Postby highVE » Fri Jan 19, 2007 8:04 pm

Whos carb you using?? The best $650 you'll spend is on a VDL carb!! Vortecs would be my first choice, but the camel humps will hold their own on that short track if they have the right "work" done to them being your turning 6300, you don't want to overcam. I'm thinking a single pattern 242 @.050" on a 106 installed at 100-101ICL, with a .340" lobe lift. I used that often in similer combo street stocks with great success, also could try a 242/246 if you want to spend a few more bucks. I agree the canada manifolds are better. Around here they did away with them and allowed 2101 performer intakes, so it's much easier now.

Mike Theroux
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There is never enough time!!
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Postby team 48 » Sat Jan 20, 2007 6:32 pm

Thank you guys, here is the answer to the questions I got back. Got to use stock gm crank & rods. rule just says flat top piston, nothing else. carb spacer 1 inch cannot be turned sideways. No 6 inch rods or strokers.
Nothing mentioned on oil pans or pumps or presure.
Marine intakes were run last year by a couple, supost to be stock cast iron 2 barrel. year before it said no marine, but not last year. still waiting for any changes for this year.
Who would you suggest for a good cam grinder, is it important to have one special ground or are there good ones out there. I can't be the only one with such limitations, although I haven't seen the 2 inch max od pipe rule before. One other note, I raced for 7 years, 10 years ago. My cars handle everywere on the track, 3 championships. I got the bug bad again but I know it takes all three. A car that handles, enough power to pass when you get the chance and a controlled foot and level head. Thanks again for all the advice.
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Postby Jeff » Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:40 pm

UDHarold is cam designer might try to pm him and see if he can help you, or point you to someone that can. I was going to check myself. The stuff I work on is similar, and always looking to try something diffrent.

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Postby team 48 » Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:54 pm

He was my first choice to. I used to run a general kinetics and i saw he was on here, but I wanted to have the plan down 1st on which heads and intake. Thank you I thought some of these dyno guys would help out on this one.
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Postby Procision-Auto » Sun Jan 21, 2007 5:49 pm

Nothing mentioned on oil pans or pumps or presure.


There's a few ponies hiding in the pan and oil pump. Windage trays,
baffles, pump mods and slightly lower pressure perhaps.

How about turning down the crank and using oversized bearings?
Counter weight mods?

Teflon?

Small gains, but gains nonetheless.
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Postby mudracer » Sun Jan 21, 2007 8:29 pm

would coatings be beneficial in this arena?

Piston coatings, thermal barrier coatings inside the intake, perhaps? *(Just a WAG, guys, I dunno.)
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Postby team 48 » Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:38 am

Any guess on horse power or torgue specs I could expect with this type of rules. Dyno guys, whats reality. How much should one spend on this. I am thinking a standard 4 bolt block should hold up fine. so deck the block, heads, (which) good cam for the combo, canadian intake or vortec marine 2 barrel, best carb I can afford. Any other suggestions. Is there a better piston to use with this for either higher compretion or less drag or tighter ring seal. Thank you
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Postby Transman » Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:17 am

There are other areas to gain too... inside that Glide! Are there any limitations to internal parts or the drive system?
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