How to lock out hei distributor?

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How to lock out hei distributor?

Postby e-tach » Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:45 am

Can anybody give me detailed insturctuions on how to lock out a HEI distibutor?

Thanks guys.
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Postby jeffmckc » Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:40 am

I take the rotor off, turn it to full mech advance, and weld it where it piviots then I aslo weld it under the vac. advance so it cannot move either
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Postby Baprace » Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:02 am

e-tech, just look for a 1982 and newer computer controlled distributor, they are locked factory.
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Postby F-BIRD'88 » Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:17 am

I remove the rotor, advance weights and springs.
Move the mechanical advance mechanism so its in the full advanced position.
Using two plastic electrical tie wraps, bind the mechanism locked fully advanced. Orient the knots of the tie wraps down so that the rotor will go back on. Tighten up the tie wraps so the thing cannot move.
Reinstall the rotor and you're all set. If you did this with the distributor still in the motor, your timing will now be quite advanced, so you probabily will need to twist the distributor housing back a good bit (retard) to get 'er to fire up.
Reset your timing.
Save the springs and weights and little clips for a rainy day., In case you want to restore the mech adv curve back again.
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Postby Dodge Freak » Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:10 pm

Why do you want to use a HEI distibutor-rules ?

Never did like the coil right in the cap, maybe its nice to have no coil wire but it limits what type and how big the coil can be.

I would check out the MSD dist, IMO-unless the rules say run a HEI distibutor, still maybe MSD has something :?:

Aren't the HEI rpm limited ?
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Postby F-BIRD'88 » Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:21 pm

Dodge Freak wrote:Why do you want to use a HEI distibutor-rules ?

Never did like the coil right in the cap, maybe its nice to have no coil wire but it limits what type and how big the coil can be.

I would check out the MSD dist, IMO-unless the rules say run a HEI distibutor, still maybe MSD has something :?:

Aren't the HEI rpm limited ?

When they first came out in 1975 on GM cars the internal module and coil were not that great. The modern GM HEI module is a lot better. MSD makes a few cool hi output replacement modules with more power output and rpm capability and better MSD HEI coils. Very easy to upgrade. Lots of spark power, reliability and rpm capability.
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Postby e-tach » Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:38 pm

I might have made an oops. When I did it, I welded it in the halfeway advanced position. This wont matter, will it? I can always move the distributor. Am I okay here?
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Postby bill jones » Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:56 pm

-I'm a little surprised that nobody has mentioned rotor indexing during the lock out process---and that nobody has mentioned the fact that the timing retards some as the rpm increases once you get the rotor locked down.
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Postby crumple » Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:17 pm

I don't know if this is common but in my experience with a locked-out HEI the timing would retard 1.5 degrees per 1000 RPM.

In other words if I wanted 34 degrees lead @ 6000 RPM I ended up with 41.5 @ 1000 RPM.

I'm no electrical engineer, so these are just my observations. It seems the mechanical advance tries to compensate for this effect but when you disable the advance mechanism it's there, clear as day.

I think the compensating effect results in unsteady timing at high RPM's also as the weights and the module battle for supremacy inside the cap.

I ended up cutting the mechanical advance down to half of it's original travel and making a hard stop for it to top out against instead of it gradually trying to advance more and more as the RPM's go up.

This still leaves me with about a 3 degree swing in the engines normal WOT operating of 4000 to 6000 but the timing is steady now instead of jumping around a five degree range when you bring the RPM's up.
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Postby Dodge Freak » Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:19 pm

bill jones wrote:-I'm a little surprised that nobody has mentioned rotor indexing during the lock out process---and that nobody has mentioned the fact that the timing retards some as the rpm increases once you get the rotor locked down.



Yes, thats why, how much should it be off, just a slight amount-guess right before the post?
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Postby Masher Manufacturing » Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:14 pm

Reluctor type magnetic pickups ( Ford, Chrysler too ) are what cause the timing retard. These pickups make a AC sinewave.

The ignition module fires when the voltage crosses zero. I think the timing retard comes from the reluctor not shedding magnetism fast enough causing the zero crossing to occur later.

You can use a electronic advance dist without the 4 wire connected as there is a internal advance program in the ignition module.

The timing jitter in a stock HEI comes from not having a full advance stop. On my 307 Olds oval track car I pulled the weights outwards, made a mark on the advance plate then welded a small strip of steel to limit the pin movement.
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Postby Truckracer » Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:34 pm

[quote=You can use a electronic advance dist without the 4 wire connected as there is a internal advance program in the ignition module. [/quote]

I am wondering out loud here. Should I use the electronic advance module in a standard HEI to eliminate the timing retard ?
Last edited by Truckracer on Tue Apr 15, 2008 4:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Tuner » Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:26 am

Some small diameter 8 cylinder TPI distributors have a module that was also used in the Delco Voyager marine ignitions that has a built in advance curve that makes some sense for a hot rod motor. It’s the “limp-home” mode for if the ECU fails and can’t supply the timing control function. Unfortunately, it also has a 6000 RPM rev limiter in it, an actual rev-limiter, not a weakness in design, or whatever. There are some other modules than the marine unit that don’t have a rev limiter and do have a good advance curve and an interesting retard function when triggered with the jumper wire used to set the timing on the marine applications. The wire is a GM part that you plug into the module and connect to 12V to cause the advance function to zero out so you can set the initial without the timing wandering around with engine speed changes while you’re trying to time it (like un-plugging the tan wire on the ECU applications). The timing jumper is only to be connected and disconnected when the engine is running in this case, on ECM applications the tan wire is only disconnected and connected when the engine is off, they don’t go to the same pin on the module. I’m sorry, I don’t know what the applications were, I was just playing with a pile of junkyard TPI distributors with my distributor machine and it was a decade ago. I do remember the OE GM modules were the only ones that had a reasonable advance curve in them. The aftermarket units I checked (including some ‘brand name’ hotties) were just a retard for starting and a sudden switch to more advance at 2500 or so and then retarding after that – junk. I think chances are any one you might pick up could have been manufactured in any one of many off-shore locations and be different in these respects. I think the GM ones will have the characteristics of the original specs for their part number.

All electronic ignitions have the retard with RPM characteristic except for those which trigger off the preceding cylinder and then compensate in calculating the timing like a 7531 MSD or a programmable EFI. All electronics have a “slew rate”, a fixed amount of time it takes for the input signal (the trigger) in to be switched through the circuit in the amplifier and become output (the spark). The time required for the system to fire is constant, for example the time of 1 degree at 1000 RPM, and the crank turns 8 times further (gets closer to TDC) at 8000 RPM in the same amount of time. The timing light is doing this too. All electronic components have their own fixed slew rate characteristic. “Rise time” is the familiar term used to describe the voltage change in a coil circuit, such as when comparing CD to induction systems. Strangely, some of the “high-output” modules have more retard than the GM module, they may not use a “zero cross” type detector circuit.

The genuine GM module (D1906) has nearly the same retard characteristic as most common CD boxes. If you run either one with a locked advance you will have very nearly the same amount of retard over the RPM range.

You guys who never had the pleasure of using a points ignition to operate racing engines are at a real disadvantage for the not having had the experience. The CD boxes make it so a sloppy carb tuneup that’s way too rich can still be ignited and the engine run more or less OK in spite of spark plugs fouled so bad they wouldn’t run at all with a points induction ignition. In the good old daze you had to get the carb a lot closer than people get away with now because a CD will ‘bandage’ it.

Right from the get-go the HEI has always been capable of at least 5 times the energy delivered to the plug gap of points and twice that of common CD systems. The first couple of years there was trouble with module failures because of high fly-back voltage caused by open plug wires (that also killed the IC in the alternator’s internal voltage regulator - there’s some trivia for you – the fly-back pulse is as much as 400V in the coil primary and so all the wiring in the car connected to the + post of the battery). The energy of a healthy system has always been about the same with the stock parts. Granted, the CD systems have the fast rise time that fires fouled plugs but they don’t deliver as much total energy to the gap as an HEI. The CD does deliver it in a form that’s more beneficial for a sloppy carb tuneup. The HEI is better for firing lean economy and emissions mixtures because of the long arc duration.

The articles in Rot Hod magazines were (and still are) written to please the advertisers who pay the magazine staff’s wages and supply them with “benefits”. (Would you have it any other way?) The bad rap HEI’s got (only 4500 RPM, etc.) was because “unbiased” dyno testing was done with the “manufacturer’s recommended plug gap” which was at least .060” for most GM cars and .090” on some Oldsmobile applications. If you run the HEI with gaps that make sense for the type of ignition it is (induction) and feed it properly (volts and amps) it will easily turn more RPM than most 8 cylinder pushrod race engines. No one thinks it’s unusual to use .018” or .020” with a magneto, even a MSD Pro Mag 44, why should it be unusual to use a .025” gap with the HEI? We had to run points (induction) systems that way to make a high compression - high RPM engine run well and didn’t think it was unusual until the CD revolution in the 70’s and the “my gap is bigger than your gap” wars started. It didn’t take long for anyone who was doing much maintenance on the new systems to figure out the wide gaps just cause more rapid failure of the insulation of the HV parts of the system, wires, caps, coils, etc. In their tech literature in recent years even the MSD folks recommend .025” to .032” for over 13:1 and less than that for boosted and nitrous engines. (Welcome back to the local universe is my spin on that.)

It doesn’t matter how or where you lock the mechanical advance on a HEI, because the rotor is attached to the rotating pole piece (trigger wheel) the rotor phasing doesn’t change.
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Postby Masher Manufacturing » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:47 pm

Truckracer wrote: I am wondering out loud here. Should I use the electronic advance module in a standard HEI to eliminate the timing retard ?


I don't recall the advance curve for the electronic advance modules so I can't say how far it extends or if it will do what you want. The module tested was from a mid 80's Olds 307.

The module advance is there as a limp function and not part of normal operation. In normal operation the pickup signal goes to the ECM where it delays it so the next cylinder is advanced then the signal is sent back to the module to fire the plugs.
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Postby Cogburn » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:21 pm

I weld the shaft and rotor together in the half advanced area. If I remember correctly there is more room for the weld that way. If you pull the rotor plate to full advance with the rotor off and weld it the rotor won't fit anymore.

Also weld the shaft to the top piece it is just pressed together and comes apart after a while just when you need to run good for the championship.

Rotor phasing can be done by welding the vacuum advance rod so the phasing is good.

I always used an Msd box(6T) on the HEI with the ACCEL coil. Haven't used one for 5-6 years now.
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