OEM 351w block and stud girdle?

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travis
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OEM 351w block and stud girdle?

Post by travis »

At what point (power or rpm) would main studs and a stud girdle be recommended on a factory 351w block? Later 80's block if that matters. Also 3.85" stroke.
lance flake
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?

Post by lance flake »

The factory bolts are probably as good as the block. I do usually put arp bolts or studs in with anything over a basic stock build. The main girdle just makes pan and pick up tube a pain to install. I have run a bunch of 302/351’s with a girdle but I don’t anymore. Didn’t see a benefit.
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?

Post by Walter R. Malik »

travis wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2024 3:49 pm At what point (power or rpm) would main studs and a stud girdle be recommended on a factory 351w block? Later 80's block if that matters. Also 3.85" stroke.
Main cap cracking of the plain cast iron main caps is the major issue.

Machining the top of the main cap flat and putting a 1/2" thick STEEL strap across it with 460 Ford main bolts works just as well; sometimes better.
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travis
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?

Post by travis »

At the 475-525hp level with a 3.85" stroke, for a non racecar application, do you guys feel that anything beyond stock is even necessary? The stock 2 bolt mains appear pretty beefy.
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?

Post by mag2555 »

If you polish over all the sharp edges on the main caps but for the parting line they will hold up a good amount longer before cracking.
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Re: OEM 351w block and stud girdle?

Post by cab0154 »

we turned a 4.0" stroke steel crank 8k rpm all the time with just main studs in a late 70s block. after 400 passes, took a cap off and had zero cap walk. they are fine, at least at a zero balance with light rods and pistons.
"Anyone who thinks the low RPM engine will be faster just does not have as much experience as the rest of us" -The late, great Joe Sherman.

You wont beat anyone if you do everything the same as everyone.
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