Need magic glue to fix broken head

[bmwmaster]

Hi,

I have a big problem. Have got a nice cyilinderhead but sadly while mounting the oil squirt line the thread with some material around broke of.

I tried to fix it with standard 2 comp liquid metal. After aplaying it felt real strong so I had some hope that it will hold. But after driving first time, it didn't work. See the picture.

Now my question, is there some special stuff to repair such parts? Something (glue) that can fix the metal line with the aluminium head together and resist vibration and heat and oil environment?

Otherway I would try to drill two holes on left and right side of the line, cut threads and bolt the line down with a metal plate somehow like a bridge.

Or has someone a better idea?


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[Caprimaniac]

Drill and tap to a larger size threads. Then use an adapter.
Or weld, drill and tap to original size.

[Newold1]

Weld , drill & tap X2

[user-17438]

How about you take a picture without the gob of sh** on it so we have a better idea. Is it leaking around the thread?is it just a compression fitting? A flare? Can you crimp a new fitting on it? Still it out to a larger size? Otherwise id say drill, tap and use a different union.

[mk e]

Glue is the Devil.

I've had that on the white board in my office for many years now. You know its not going to work but its so fast, so easy.... how can you not try it? At least until you learn better.

The options that will work and last the life of the engine as others have stated:
an insert - this is almost always the fastest if you can buy the insert and you have enough wall thickness to make it work. I did one a couple years ago the was a M12 ID, M14 OD, I tapped the ID and signal point turned the OD thread to get it exactly aligned so there was 1mm wall everywhere, pain in the butt to make but it worked perfectly. That was aluminum, steel the wall could be thinner, but then taps/dies are harder to get.

weld and retap - on aluminum use lots of WD-40 or similar tapping because the metal will be pretty gummy. Tough to do on the engine, get the ground lead right close so you know you're not grounding though bearing anywhere and watch the heat. Much easier if you can get the broken part off the engine and on the welding table.

Good luck with it.

[stealth]

How about you take a picture without the gob of sh** on it so we have a better idea. Is it leaking around the thread?is it just a compression fitting? A flare? Can you crimp a new fitting on it? Still it out to a larger size? Otherwise id say drill, tap and use a different union.

Agreed...can’t tell what is going on there.

If I’m seeing this correctly looks like maybe screwing in fitting for AN Teflon braided hose and replace tube my be option.

[digger]

for those not aware the hole half way between the head bolts should be threaded and the pipe screwed in

random pic from online ignore arrows

[pcnsd]

Original deleted

Sorry, the first post above is the way to go, but you might also look for a thread insert. There is no magic glue.