Can you tell me about valve spring assembly/disassembly tools?

[4vpc]

I think I need one to make my job easier and quicker, but i've never used one before.
Pneumatic valve spring compressors:
Can they undo a valve spring retainer without having to clout it to loosen the collets first?
Are they good for assembly? Can you stop them at whatever point you need to easy enough and get good access to the collets?

Alternatively what about valve collet remover/installers that you just push manually, are they any good?
Sorry i'm a bit lost really and don't want to buy the wrong tool.

[superpursuit]

Yes pneumatic valve spring compressors are good. You still have to loosen the collets first. You can stop them at any point you need to. Just takes a little practise and a gentle finger on the button. Great for assembly and disassembly. They are mainly for OHV type heads or exposed spring OHC heads. Recessed spring type heads not so much. The push type installers you refer to are good for recessed springs as long as the spring pressure is not too high and the collets are single groove type. I hope this helps.

[PackardV8]

FWIW, Go into a production rebuild house and watch how they disassemble. You'll seldom see any type of C-clamp compressor used for disassembly. They use an old impact socket whacked with a big hammer. One whack, the keepers pop out and on to the next valve. Seldom do they have to hit the same retainer twice.

For reassembly, what engines are you building?. There are so many, especially the smaller imports, have their own challenges. My machinist does some assembly in the head shop for more precise control of the tiny bits.

[modok]

Yes, what engine?
It is simple enough to say a air powered spring compressor works just like a manual one, but with air power. that's not the info you are looking for tho

[4vpc]

Yes pneumatic valve spring compressors are good. You still have to loosen the collets first. You can stop them at any point you need to. Just takes a little practice and a gentle finger on the button. Great for assembly and disassembly. They are mainly for OHV type heads or exposed spring OHC heads. Recessed spring type heads not so much. The push type installers you refer to are good for recessed springs as long as the spring pressure is not too high and the collets are single groove type. I hope this helps.

Yes it does thanks, I was hoping one would have enough power to release them without loosening off with hammer first though.
I'm using quite a strong double spring so maybe the other push type thing will be no good either.

FWIW, Go into a production rebuild house and watch how they disassemble. You'll seldom see any type of C-clamp compressor used for disassembly. They use an old impact socket whacked with a big hammer. One whack, the keepers pop out and on to the next valve. Seldom do they have to hit the same retainer twice.

For reassembly, what engines are you building?. There are so many, especially the smaller imports, have their own challenges. My machinist does some assembly in the head shop for more precise control of the tiny bits.

Yes I do this sometimes to disassemble, but it's a bit uncontrolled and collets go flying. I was hoping for something a bit more controlled, but still strong.

Yes, what engine?
It is simple enough to say a air powered spring compressor works just like a manual one, but with air power. that's not the info you are looking for tho

Yes I should have said, it's mainly Japanese, European DOHC stuff with a recessed spring and bucket over the top.

[ProPower engines]

Then what you want is a disassembly bench.
Goodson and others have a manual disassembly bench that is fully adjustable to valve angle in the head and wide enough to set the head in it then remove the locks etc.Also perfect for assembling those heads with recessed springs.
I used to 30 years ago use a hand held compressor for doing that but no longer.
Check out goodson's site and do a google search for others as I have recently seen a couple used ones available

[modok]

OHC and buckets....
If you have a drill press I think you should use that as your spring compressor.
Make a wood adjustable angle plate, and a thing to chuck in the chuck.

[Keith Morganstein]

For bucket valve heads, an assembly/disassembly bench is the way to go.

To expand on what Modok wrote, Fab a tilting table out of a couple pieces of 3/4 plywood with Hinges. Drawer slides so it can go right to left. Slot the bottom piece of plywood so it can move towards or away. Fasten the bottom with bolts and large washers through the slots just tight enough that it can still slide

There are spring compressor adapters you can buy, or make them. Then you put a bean bag in the chamber (or rag or chamber mold made from Bondo) to hold the valves up.
Compress the valve, lock the quill, remove or install the lock.

[benno318]

on some stuff i use my arbor press with home made tools to go into the bucket recesses, there are also some simple hand held tools that can be used such as this one from snap-on:

https://store.snapon.com/Valve-Keeper-T ... 45403.aspx

i have 2, one for smaller one for larger, however they only work for me with bead type single groove collets - not multi groove as some euro stuff has.

installation is great with these, simply load the collets into the retainer, position the spring loaded tool on top, hold the valve head underneath and push. click it goes, and the collets are installed. removal is like using a socket and hammer, but there is a ring magnet so you dont lose collets...

i also have a home modified manual spring compressor with an end welded on that allows access to the collets and for this i use a length of aluminium welding rod - hammer a flat on one end and a hook on the other for control, and a dab of grease to install collets once the spring is compressed.

[midnightbluS10]

FWIW, Go into a production rebuild house and watch how they disassemble. You'll seldom see any type of C-clamp compressor used for disassembly. They use an old impact socket whacked with a big hammer. One whack, the keepers pop out and on to the next valve. Seldom do they have to hit the same retainer twice.

For reassembly, what engines are you building?. There are so many, especially the smaller imports, have their own challenges. My machinist does some assembly in the head shop for more precise control of the tiny bits.

Yes I do this sometimes to disassemble, but it's a bit uncontrolled and collets go flying. I was hoping for something a bit more controlled, but still strong.

That's the way I learned. A rag, socket, and hammer make quick work of them. Put the rag over the spring the keep the little bits from flying. A strong magnet on the side of the socket works, too.

Unless you're doing A LOT of head jobs or have upper body weakness due to age, etc... a manual compressor works fine for assembly for most stuff. I haven't done much import stuff so I can't really comment on those.

[bill jones]

-here's what I use mainly for Subaru's and 2JZ's- etc

-this shows the first c-clamp type compressor foot and how much room you have to work around the stem end.
-the stem for compressor foot is made from a stock Chevy pushrod.


-I use this purple type compressor 99% of the time with several different stem ends--like a little bitty end for doing the little bitty VW 5 valves heads.

compressed far enough to install keepers.jpg

subaru modified 11-2012.jpg

---I also built this one that bolts into the cam cap bolt holes---I machined a hole thru the top of a bucket and use the screws to push the outer edge of the bucket---using a deep socket with a thumbscrew welded to it or a speed wrench to compress the spring.
---this was built to remove valve springs when the heads are still on the engine.

SUBARU ON THE HEAD COMPRESSOR COMPONENTS.jpg

-takes about 6 to 8 turns on the screw to get the keepers out.

6 TO 10 TURNS ON THUMBSCREW.jpg

.

-sometime after I built my on the head compressor I found this one for sale.

Subaru on the head $85.jpg

-this De-Sta-Co cam lock is what the handle end is made out of.

De-Staco #624 cam lock.jpg

[4vpc]

Wow thanks for the replies guys, you've been very helpful. Lots of ideas there so i'm forming a plan.
I have a 6ft drill stand, a good old one too, but I don't think it's heavy or strong enough for valve springs, it doesn't have a lock either.
However I do have a mill So i'll look into making a jig to fit that. Keith do you happen to have some pics of that device you mention?
Bill, thanks for taking the time to post up pics of your various tools, some things to think about for me for sure.
Benno: Snap-on do two remover installers, a GA318A and a GA317, but I can't see what the difference is, i'll have to see if I can catch the Snap-on guy and see if he knows the difference.

[Keith Morganstein]

Wow thanks for the replies guys, you've been very helpful. Lots of ideas there so i'm forming a plan.
I have a 6ft drill stand, a good old one too, but I don't think it's heavy or strong enough for valve springs, it doesn't have a lock either.
However I do have a mill So i'll look into making a jig to fit that. Keith do you happen to have some pics of that device you mention?
Bill, thanks for taking the time to post up pics of your various tools, some things to think about for me for sure.
Benno: Snap-on do two remover installers, a GA318A and a GA317, but I can't see what the difference is, i'll have to see if I can catch the Snap-on guy and see if he knows the difference.

I can take photos. It’s crude, something I made in a hurry out of bits I had, just to do a 5 valve VW years ago. It works well enough that I’m still using it.

[modok]

Same here. Even worse. If I took a picture of it you'd think it was just scrap.
Two pieces of 3/4 wood-like stuff, joined by a piano hinge, various holes for pins as needed. Different blocks to stick between to create different angles. it was going to finish it someday, but never did, maybe it is finished.
I've used it on a dozen different kinds of heads, works well.

[user-23911]

That's the way I learned. A rag, socket, and hammer make quick work of them. Put the rag over the spring the keep the little bits from flying. A strong magnet on the side of the socket works, too.

The quickest way to get them apart.