best thread sealer- head studs.

[dfarr67]

Best is a relative term and I know everybody has their favorite, I have a list on Amazon between $17-$40....which one? My tube of 565 won't complete the job. Leaning towards the 567.

Permatex 80016 Form-A-Gasket #2 Sealant
ARP 1009904 Thread Sealer
GM Fluid 12346004 Teflon Pipe Sealant
Loctite LOC59231 592 PST Thread Sealant Slow Cure
Loctite 56747 Thread Sealant 567 PST High Temperature
Loctite 1158514 Head Bolt and Water Jacket Sealant

[Krooser]

For years I used permatex in the brush on can... Last time I used plumbers liquid Teflon in the $1.29 can...

[SupStk]

I've been using plumbers pipe dope with teflon. Get it at Ace hardware. No leaky studs since using it.

[Baprace]

I still use the Permatex with the brush.

[dfarr67]

Canada here- no Ace Hardware and everything cost 10x.

Today I picked up:

567- which is probably what I will use, but also Permatex #2 and this-->

http://www.jetlubecanada.com/tds/TF-15.pdf

[MELWAY]

White loctite 567 works every time

[dfarr67]

I'm sure it is also what GM repackages.

[sanfordandson]

Right stuff always works best for me.

[smeg]

I learned a hard lesson many years ago with head studs,
use high strength loctite red, some in the block some on the stud, screw all the way down then back out half a turn. work quickly to do all studs, then slip a head down into place, let sit overnite, take the head off and clean up the residue. fit head and tension as per normal.
Believe me this works, never had a head gasket issue or any problem doing it this way ever! One man I told, did not believe me and bottomed the studs out with pipe sealant and promptly split the top of the block as the stud moved down into the taper at the top of the thread.
This is why you back them out a half turn.

[MadBill]

A SpeedTalker whose handle I forget mentioned a while back that he drops a ball bearing into each hole before screwing in the stud, to prevent it wedging into the last of the thread. If you're really A-R, you could verify that the stud doesn't thread in as far once the ball's in place.

[Momus]

I learned a hard lesson many years ago with head studs,
use high strength loctite red, some in the block some on the stud, screw all the way down then back out half a turn. work quickly to do all studs, then slip a head down into place, let sit overnite, take the head off and clean up the residue. fit head and tension as per normal.
Believe me this works, never had a head gasket issue or any problem doing it this way ever! One man I told, did not believe me and bottomed the studs out with pipe sealant and promptly split the top of the block as the stud moved down into the taper at the top of the thread.
This is why you back them out a half turn.

I thought the lesson you were going to confess to was heating the studs red to remove them after chemically welding them into the block.

[pdq67]

Been using, "Indianhead", for more years than I care to remember.

On head gaskets too and all bolts that need sealed.

pdq67

[superpursuit]

A SpeedTalker whose handle I forget mentioned a while back that he drops a ball bearing into each hole before screwing in the stud, to prevent it wedging into the last of the thread. If you're really A-R, you could verify that the stud doesn't thread in as far once the ball's in place.

Madbill. I believe they are referring to an open hole, and thus the need for sealer.

[modok]

It's cool loctite does continually come out with slightly improved formulas with new part numbers to confuse the heck out of me, but in a lot of cases they don't perform any better.
IMO, stay with the 565

[Geoff2]

I would use pipe/thread sealant that has the appropriate temperature range that an engine sees. That is what it is designed for.