What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

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travis
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What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by travis » Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:58 pm

Labor only...GM 14 bolt 10.5” retaining the factory Gov-loc, switching from 3.73’s to 4.56’s.

Got some quotes today...damn 😳

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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by Coloradoracer » Sat Jan 20, 2018 11:25 am

Those are super easy to do yourself. Pretty much the same as doing a 9" ford...Only things you need are a spanner for the carrier bearing adjusting sleeves and pinion shims for the pinion housing....oh, and a good dial indicator with stand.
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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by rfoll » Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:38 pm

Paden Drivetrain in Portland OR charges $175, I'm under the impression he's cheap.
So much to do, so little time...

travis
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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by travis » Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:44 pm

I had a shop that did many for me up in a Tulsa that charged $250 for many years. I moved down here to the Dallas are and the cheapest quote I got was $600 labor only. One shop quoted me over $2600!!! When I questioned that they said they don’t do r/p’s...they have another shop build a whole rear end and then they swap the whole thing out!

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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by Truckedup » Thu Jan 25, 2018 7:46 am

I would think a shop wants a very high price because they really don't want to do it...And they are covering their asses for the come back after they do it wrong...
It's not difficult for an experienced hobbyist mechanic to change gears if he has the few required tools
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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by travis » Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:08 am

What tools would I need to do this myself? I’ve watched a few videos on YouTube and it doesn’t look terribly complicated

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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by ZIGGY » Thu Jan 25, 2018 12:58 pm

If it's like a 9in. then Coloradoracer already mentioned tools.
If you don't want to do it yourself, check Stan Hopkins Co. on
C.F. Hawn Frwy. in Dallas - 214-398-0636

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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by Speedbump » Fri Jan 26, 2018 8:36 am

How will you check pinion bearing pre load without an inch pound torque wrench? Also, without a pinion depth checking device, how do you choose the pinion shim? I don't think that rear has a removable pinion unit like the 9 inch so changing that pinion shim is a serious pain, possibly ruining a pinion bearing each time you remove it from the pinion to access the shim. There's a reason the good guys charge for this. It's not as easy as the Saturday shows make it seem and the do overs when it makes noise are a real pain in the ass.
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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by 1972ho » Fri Jan 26, 2018 6:42 pm

I have never payed over 80.00 to have 9 inch gear change but I have always taken the diff to the person doing the job.But I have called some places in recent years that quoted really out of the my price range to do the job,that’s why I’ve been doing it myself.I think some of these shop have been watching to much reality TV.

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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by Speedbump » Fri Jan 26, 2018 8:06 pm

9's are way more convenient because you can throw the 3rd member on a modified engine stand and do all the work there + with the pinion set up you can R/R that part as many times as it takes to get the depth correct without worry of hurting anything else. You've done well. I wouldn't even answer the phone for $80.
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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by rfoll » Fri Jan 26, 2018 9:27 pm

I'm having a ring and pinion install with the axle in the car on Thursday, I'll post here when I pay the bill.
So much to do, so little time...

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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by bobalattie » Sat Jan 27, 2018 12:36 am

I know this doesn’t help the OP, but Ratech makes a good pinion depth checking tool.

I have a few pinion bearings that I honed the inside of so they come on and off easily when checking pinion depth. Just be sure to stick with quality bearings from the same manufacturer. I choose to only use timken.

I prefer using solid spacers instead of crush sleeves for pinion preload.

Don’t install the pinion nut or seal until ready for final assembly.

Dial indicator with a magnetic base is a great tool to have for more than just building gears, so the invenstment is worth it.. on amazon they are quite affordable.

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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by Speedbump » Sat Jan 27, 2018 11:32 am

You make my point exactly! I've done all the same things with bearings and I too use shims, point being we(and others) have developed good ways to do a quality job in a shorter time + we have the "knack". People may discount that but I don't. I also don't have to do it for a living but those who do and have invested the time, money and technique to do it right need to get paid. If the OP is in the learn mode and wants to "invest" more power to him, but to choose someone else to do it based on "how cheap" probably won't serve him well. It will be interesting to see what rfoll is charged. I'm old and I won't even do one in the car anymore.
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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by tresi » Sat Jan 27, 2018 6:37 pm

There are a few good pinion depth tools but most of the cheap $90 or so tools are more trouble than they are worth. It's cheaper to buy 2 bearings and honing 1 out for a test fit bearing.

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Re: What would you expect to pay for a R/P install?

Post by Coloradoracer » Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:34 pm

Speedbump wrote:
Fri Jan 26, 2018 8:36 am
How will you check pinion bearing pre load without an inch pound torque wrench? Also, without a pinion depth checking device, how do you choose the pinion shim? I don't think that rear has a removable pinion unit like the 9 inch so changing that pinion shim is a serious pain, possibly ruining a pinion bearing each time you remove it from the pinion to access the shim. There's a reason the good guys charge for this. It's not as easy as the Saturday shows make it seem and the do overs when it makes noise are a real pain in the ass.
There are 2 GM 14 bolt rearends. One is a semi floating rear, 9.5" ring. It is the weaker of the two and pinion is not in a removable housing. The other is a 10.5" ring year, full floating rear and the pinion is in a removable support just like a 9" Ford. It is the easier of the two to rebuild as the only shims that are required for it are the pinion housing shims to set depth. There are no carrier shims, it uses threaded sleeves.
Mark Goulette
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Speed kills but it's better than going slow!
http://www.livinthedreamracing.com
Authorized Amsoil Retailer

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