***Post Pics of what you are working on**
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Cutting seat on a flat head
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
I shall not covet, I shall not covet, I shall not covet, your Serdi.
Servedio Cylinder Head Development
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Joe I have been doing electronic repairs since 74 and repaired more color TVs , receivers , CB radios and restored more vintage guitar amps then I care to think about!
I have been using WD-40 on Pots for 30 years with no issues!
What your seing is the fact that some pots have some much Carbon dust in them that if you do not use a cleaner to flush them out first, or even taking them apart to do so then the scratchyness will come back once the lube be it WD-40 or Pot cleaner / lube evaporates!
On pots that I have to go thru the extra step of unsoldering and taking apart I use silicone grease to lube up the Carbon track and that never evaporates!
I have been using WD-40 on Pots for 30 years with no issues!
What your seing is the fact that some pots have some much Carbon dust in them that if you do not use a cleaner to flush them out first, or even taking them apart to do so then the scratchyness will come back once the lube be it WD-40 or Pot cleaner / lube evaporates!
On pots that I have to go thru the extra step of unsoldering and taking apart I use silicone grease to lube up the Carbon track and that never evaporates!
You can cut a man's tongue from his mouth, but that does not mean he’s a liar, it just shows that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
I haven't started working on this yet, but I need to somehow get it off the trailer. The pinion yoke is up against the floor board. The welds broke and the threads pulled on the CalTrac bar. It looks like the stock drive shaft is toast. I needed to upgrade these parts, looks like I waited too long.
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So much to do, so little time...
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
did the center spin on the tubes? or did the perches break off?rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:47 pm PICT0351.JPGPICT0352.JPGI haven't started working on this yet, but I need to somehow get it off the trailer. The pinion yoke is up against the floor board. The welds broke and the threads pulled on the CalTrac bar. It looks like the stock drive shaft is toast. I needed to upgrade these parts, looks like I waited too long.
Long Island, NY
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Thats why I went to a pinion snubber and just used my Cal Tracks to adjust left and right as needed, they will still bend over time but you can catch it.rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:47 pm PICT0351.JPGPICT0352.JPGI haven't started working on this yet, but I need to somehow get it off the trailer. The pinion yoke is up against the floor board. The welds broke and the threads pulled on the CalTrac bar. It looks like the stock drive shaft is toast. I needed to upgrade these parts, looks like I waited too long.
This car is leaving on the snubber.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RgKOCo0GhU
Please Note!
THE ABOVE POST IN NO WAY REFLECTS THE VIEWS OF SPEED TALK OR IT'S MEMBERS AND SHOULD BE VIEWED AS ENTERTAINMENT ONLY...Thanks, The Management!
THE ABOVE POST IN NO WAY REFLECTS THE VIEWS OF SPEED TALK OR IT'S MEMBERS AND SHOULD BE VIEWED AS ENTERTAINMENT ONLY...Thanks, The Management!
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
The center spun on the tubes. There were only about 3 threads engaged on the front tube on the driver side. When you adjust the bars, you don't know how much thread engagement is there. It never occurred to me to check it, the equipment is designed for the application. I suspect I need 1" longer tubes. It felt like the mother of all launches, 50 degrees, dry air, and sea level barometer, until it broke 3 lengths out.
So much to do, so little time...
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Yeah that would be scary, the rear on the car I posted in the vid had to have the rear replaced once in about 8 years due to distortion but the tubes were not welded to the center section beyond what was done from the factory. I have seen where guys will drill the cast center section and do more plug welds, some feel that trying to weld around them will cause a weak point...Consult a professional!rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:05 pm The center spun on the tubes. There were only about 3 threads engaged on the front tube on the driver side. When you adjust the bars, you don't know how much thread engagement is there. It never occurred to me to check it, the equipment is designed for the application. I suspect I need 1" longer tubes. It felt like the mother of all launches, 50 degrees, dry air, and sea level barometer, until it broke 3 lengths out.
Please Note!
THE ABOVE POST IN NO WAY REFLECTS THE VIEWS OF SPEED TALK OR IT'S MEMBERS AND SHOULD BE VIEWED AS ENTERTAINMENT ONLY...Thanks, The Management!
THE ABOVE POST IN NO WAY REFLECTS THE VIEWS OF SPEED TALK OR IT'S MEMBERS AND SHOULD BE VIEWED AS ENTERTAINMENT ONLY...Thanks, The Management!
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Hope to run it next week end
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- Rick Finsta
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Land speed car?
Mike Gallo, President
Protohawk - Design/Prototyping, Small Project Support, and Contract Manufacturing
CCA Racing Products - Torque Plates and Engine Rebuild Tooling
Protohawk - Design/Prototyping, Small Project Support, and Contract Manufacturing
CCA Racing Products - Torque Plates and Engine Rebuild Tooling
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
I wondered about welding the outer edge of the center, you share my concerns.GARY C wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 12:19 amYeah that would be scary, the rear on the car I posted in the vid had to have the rear replaced once in about 8 years due to distortion but the tubes were not welded to the center section beyond what was done from the factory. I have seen where guys will drill the cast center section and do more plug welds, some feel that trying to weld around them will cause a weak point...Consult a professional!rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:05 pm The center spun on the tubes. There were only about 3 threads engaged on the front tube on the driver side. When you adjust the bars, you don't know how much thread engagement is there. It never occurred to me to check it, the equipment is designed for the application. I suspect I need 1" longer tubes. It felt like the mother of all launches, 50 degrees, dry air, and sea level barometer, until it broke 3 lengths out.
So much to do, so little time...
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Please post your results.
So much to do, so little time...
Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Yes we will be running @ El Mirage next weekend
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
I like to drill and tap a large diameter cap screw through center into tubes. Basically pins the tubes in place.GARY C wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 12:19 amYeah that would be scary, the rear on the car I posted in the vid had to have the rear replaced once in about 8 years due to distortion but the tubes were not welded to the center section beyond what was done from the factory. I have seen where guys will drill the cast center section and do more plug welds, some feel that trying to weld around them will cause a weak point...Consult a professional!rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:05 pm The center spun on the tubes. There were only about 3 threads engaged on the front tube on the driver side. When you adjust the bars, you don't know how much thread engagement is there. It never occurred to me to check it, the equipment is designed for the application. I suspect I need 1" longer tubes. It felt like the mother of all launches, 50 degrees, dry air, and sea level barometer, until it broke 3 lengths out.
Countersink the head with a tight fit.
Just make sure bolt doesn’t touch axle.