454 7k rpm choices

[cv67]

4 bolt 454
AFR head or? similar

Should run an easy 10 alllday real #S not pie in the sku please
Dont care about driveaiity manners not a weenie will wanna stick manfolds or some bs low rsie dual plane on it
I want it to run hard plain and simple .Period. HR are for girls get my drift?
Which SFT CAM
11-12 to 1
no drivent often
Single plane ported not sureif dominator needed or (suggest one)
Not going roller hold your breath
Figure asy to make 600+ reliable hp if not more ABble to drive 2hrs ea way to track
Regular old roller rockers

Suggestions part nos etc?
Figure steel crankcan be GM Scar or?INternal balance.
Sick of high maintenance/cost builds

67 A body 6 spd 4.11 26 in M.T try to keep it
want a littl reliable Rpm. 383 gets it but almost maxed out


Suggestions on build?
No exotic parts alloweed lol

[Carnut1]

Pm Mark Jones aka. Vortecpro. This has his name all over it. Mark does it with parts other guys usually throw away. Thanks, Charlie

[Newold1]

My suggestion is tone down your macho rhetoric, read, study, listen. learn and expand your brain and take what you can learn and then let it help you find the best solution for what you are trying to achieve. I don't believe you'll ever find that chest puffing makes real results or wins races. Reason, when you are in this state of mind you are caught up in to much emotion and not using enough knowledge.
Also remember the words to that famous Rolling Stones song," you can't always get what you want, but you just might get what you need!" JMO

[pdq67]

Didn't the old, "still-born", LS-7 make right at 600hp or a skosh more back then with no more than a good set of headers, (open), on it?

And right, please look into Vortecpro's offerings too!

It may not rpm like you want, but a good 496 is one powerful engine and very reasonably priced for the cubic inches!

pdq67

[cv67]

Didnt mean to come off as chest puffing just know what I want
low rpm HR stuff I know its popular and practical but everyone does it thats all.
LS7 never did it for me thanks pdq

[RevTheory]

Check out the late Harold Brookshires' latest work before his passing in the attachment.

Maybe something along the line of AFR 290 Eliminators, lobes from the attachment of 257/265 at .050 on a 109 LSA with 1.8/1.7 rockers? Sniper Jr. may be a little too much on a 468 so Super Vic? Check out the BLP BX4 carb.

Just rattling off some ideas from the top of my melon to spur the conversation.

Brookshire List.xls

[CamKing]

305cc rectangle port AFR head. If you want to go with an oval port, go with the 290cc AFR

Cam# BBCM, M79362-80362-110
260/263 @.050"
.362"/.362" Lobe Lift
110 LSA

[MELWAY]

Check out the late Harold Brookshires' latest work before his passing in the attachment.

Maybe something along the line of AFR 290 Eliminators, lobes from the attachment of 257/265 at .050 on a 109 LSA with 1.8/1.7 rockers? Sniper Jr. may be a little too much on a 468 so Super Vic? Check out the BLP BX4 carb.

Just rattling off some ideas from the top of my melon to spur the conversation.

Brookshire List.xls

Where can you get cams made with these lobes?

[F-BIRD'88]

Check the master lobe lists of Lunati, Bullet and Howards for available UD Harold cam lobes. .
They have many of ,but each may not have all.

You will also fond many good solid street strip endurance app solid strett roller lobes designed by Harold just for this stuff.

Do not confuse with a race rollrr. Build as 496 cid 10.50:1 cr for pump gas.

The edelbrock RPM dual quad hi rise is 600+ hp capable on this..

Ya streetabity will soon matter.. Makes this a great choice .

[RevTheory]

Where can you get cams made with these lobes?

Shoot, my bad. They're from Howard's Cams.

[mag2555]

You do not even need to go to 6k to make 600 hp, and it can be done with Oval ports!

[raynorshine]

Didn't the old, "still-born", LS-7 make right at 600hp or a skosh more back then with no more than a good set of headers, (open), on it?

And right, please look into Vortecpro's offerings too!

It may not rpm like you want, but a good 496 is one powerful engine and very reasonably priced for the cubic inches!

pdq67

- X 2 on the 496 !! great starting point

[RevTheory]

You do not even need to go to 6k to make 600 hp, and it can be done with Oval ports!

I'd prefer ovals with a maximum of a 2.25 valve. He'll have to notch the shit out of that cylinder wall with a 2.3 valve on a 4.28 bore, won't he?

[cv67]

I understand you can make XX number today by 6k but the car gets rpm fast the way its geared and tired hate to pull gear out of
Ive always liked motors for toys that dont build too much low end but come on progressively harder as rpms build. The 383 gets up there quick so "non textbook" build ok
think you guys know what I mean.

Has a 275/50/MT on the rear now
Would def use a very good single plane ported not sure on carb could use some guidance there. Currently have an AED 850 HO I suspect a little small?

Hopefully this 6 spd and DF Centerforce holds up. Maybe clutch needs upgrade. Using a 3" Torino driveshaft with spicers. Rearend is stout as money will allow
Have good cooling system in place

Opinionis on ripping this MSD stuff out and stucking a good HEI on there. I want to keep things simple, maybe a rev limiter. Id need headers and accessories doesnt seem to bad
Got a tentative deal on a nice 4 bolt 454 coming my way.

Cam King think your cam would live awhile on the st meaning ramps good enough to make power but not crazy? Sounds silly but I have more faith in a quality SFT as far as life span than rollers
Sure it will be overpowered anyways I wont worry about 30hp difference. If it can get me an honest 10 sec capable mill (12 sec driver here)Ill be thrilled that I can do some longer cruising jaunts like a feew hundred mi round trip to the track. I hate to burn up solid rollers fwy driving. Used to have DD that were SFT for yrs and yrs.

4" stroke seems to be popular. If I get this block guy has a .10 under steel 427 crank also. Hmm.
All the bigger stuff (LOVE to have a 565) but if I cant hook it up think I may regret it
vacuum manners mpg is of no concern. Present cam makes 7-8 in on a good day and with a canister stops the car well.

I either want to do this or sell the car as I dont use it. Love this ol bucket. If I knew I could put more mi without worry big incentive plus despite weight those big valve covers just lok right
Planned on a veryhigh strung 427 yrs ago but it was stolen.

Again sorry if I came off wrong last week had some issues took it out on a forum or two which isnt like me.
Closer to the grave than Ill admit at 48 I just wanna have some fun while I can before I turn over the keys.

Clean your AC systemss guys especially if you have asthma. Silent killer.

[F-BIRD'88]

Why not just supercharge the 383 SBC. You already got it. It will be just as reliable as it is now
Or more reliable. It will easily hit your power goals, the "progressive" power curve is there
and you can adjust the power to the need at the time.
it will cost less than building a new BBC combo and last longer.
It will do more of what you want the car to do and better.

You have got the right car for it. Lots of under hood room.

Irreguardless, solid roller lifters "Burn up" in street driving because the cams and valve springs that people try to run on the street are stricktly racing roller cams. They have very very agressive lift rates
very high lift and sharper lash ramps that make a bit more power in a racing engine but the cost is lower life.
This is true wether a roller follower or a flat tappet follower type.
It is a matter of mechanical stress and spring pressure.
A good street type solid roller setup has a similar lift rate, lift and spring pressure requirment as a agressive street hyd roller does. Except the cam is designed with street friendly lash ramps on the lobe that the hyd roller cam does not have. The lifter is actually lighter weight. ( Better at controling the valve at a said usable spring pressure and lift rate motion.
And quiet valvetrain at idle. A noisey valve train is a sure sign of harsh seating/lsh take up.
Thats why racey rollers are noisey at idle. A good stret solid roller has ramps that are gentler and a bit longer to make the lash action gentler, QUIETER and allows for some adjustment and running temp flexability. These are not the typical race rollers that are NOT DESIGNED for street use.
A good street design solid roller will be just as reliable as a hyd roller with similar lift motion and valve spring pressure requirment. And jsut as reliabile or more reliable than any flat tappet with similar net valve motion and comparable spring force requirement.

If you put race roller cam 250 seat and 600# open spring pressure on a flat tappet it will wear out quick too.
The key is DON'T use a race only roller setup on the street and expect it to live.
The solid street roller will out perform a hyd roller as it does not have the limiting down sides of the effects of the hyd lash mechanism. it is not noisey at idle and it does not beat up the lifters because the lash motion, lift rate and spring requirement is designed to allow a long service life.
YES periodic adjusting the valve lash is required. Same as a solid flat tappet does.

it does not have the super aggressive vale lift rate motion of a race only roller setup.
Thats why it can run on a cast cam core and use relatively mild spring pressure and live on the street.