Compression results before Rings seat....
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Compression results before Rings seat....
Hello all, i just fired up my 2 liter Honda engine today, fresh with new CP Pistons and rings. I ran her at a constant 2k rpm for about 15 minutes, then shut her down, drained the oil, replaced the filter, and filled her back up with oil. I then did a compression test just for kicks and got about 180psi all the way across. I was expecting a tad more (roughly 12:1 compression) but this is the first time ive ever done a compression test so early in the life of an engine.
My question is, how much can i expect the compression to go up once the rings are fully seated? I was looking for compression of somewhere in the neighborhood of 230-250psi. Thanks.
My question is, how much can i expect the compression to go up once the rings are fully seated? I was looking for compression of somewhere in the neighborhood of 230-250psi. Thanks.
First, there a lot of discussion on the right way to break in rings, (it's a little late, but do a SpeedTalk search or check out: http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm ) but I think there will be good agreement here that yours has been anything but so far! Rings need pressure, limited lubrication (NOT synthetic!) and a variety of operating conditions to get friendly with the bores. (I know, what you did is recommended for flat tappet cam break-in, but...)
That said, with a little luck, yours haven't done much of anything yet. At this point I'd just drive it hard: Short periods of full throttle, soon extending the WOT bursts towards the red line. Lots of decelerations and load changes and anything but steady part throttle. Plan B. would be to wait for a few more suggestions from this forum, then pick one, keeping in mind that: "The man with a watch knows the time. The man with two is never quite sure..."
Next, a leakdown test is a far better indicator of ring seal than cranking compression, especially on an new or unknown combination. A relatively small bore like yours with advanced tech rings should show maybe 5% brand new and less than 2% seated. Ideally, this will translate to no more than a 10 psi increase when sealed. Check it now, hammer it for 500 miles and verify.
Lastly, JIC you'd like to verify what the cranking compression should be, here's one of the better sites re DCR, which includes altitude in it's cranking compression estimate: http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
That said, with a little luck, yours haven't done much of anything yet. At this point I'd just drive it hard: Short periods of full throttle, soon extending the WOT bursts towards the red line. Lots of decelerations and load changes and anything but steady part throttle. Plan B. would be to wait for a few more suggestions from this forum, then pick one, keeping in mind that: "The man with a watch knows the time. The man with two is never quite sure..."
Next, a leakdown test is a far better indicator of ring seal than cranking compression, especially on an new or unknown combination. A relatively small bore like yours with advanced tech rings should show maybe 5% brand new and less than 2% seated. Ideally, this will translate to no more than a 10 psi increase when sealed. Check it now, hammer it for 500 miles and verify.
Lastly, JIC you'd like to verify what the cranking compression should be, here's one of the better sites re DCR, which includes altitude in it's cranking compression estimate: http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
Felix, qui potuit rerum cognscere causas.
Happy is he who can discover the cause of things.
Happy is he who can discover the cause of things.
Thanks for the response, madbill. I am planning on fully seating the rings on the dyno, and only got it up to operating temperature today so i could ensure she was ready for the dyno session (no leaks, timing in check etc. etc.) Im planning on 'sneaking up' on the redline, meaning, make sure a/f is good at idle, then pulling to 4k, cleaning up the maps a bit, then pull to 6k, etc. etc. until full redline is realized. By this time, im hoping the rings will be 95% seated.
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My opinion is if the bores were done correctly & you did not drown the thing on assembly the rings are damn near seated on the starter
Mike
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Lewis Racing Engines
4axis CNC block machining
A few of the cars I have driven & owned
A tour of my shop
The Dyno
And a few pics of the gang
"Life is tough. Life is even tougher if you're stupid"
John Wayne
Mike makes a good point. Most piston rings come pre-lapped and are essentially preseated when combined with a proper plateau finish in the cylinder. The cylinder finish should approximate a broken-in engine and will minimize wear on new rings. A profilometer reading of around 20 microinches RA is typical. Follow piston and ring manufacturers specs as different ring materials will require unique handling. I would like to see a longer intial run time on a new engine then what you applied.
Just a little update for anyone interested...
Towed the engine to the dyno facility, and didnt have much time, and wound up with 238hp at 8000rpm. This is with the camshafts zero'ed and the ignition maps untouched. The plan was for 9000rpm but we ran out of time, and left it at that. I drove it home and performed a compression test, and was greeted with 250psi across all four cylinders.
Towed the engine to the dyno facility, and didnt have much time, and wound up with 238hp at 8000rpm. This is with the camshafts zero'ed and the ignition maps untouched. The plan was for 9000rpm but we ran out of time, and left it at that. I drove it home and performed a compression test, and was greeted with 250psi across all four cylinders.
A 70psi change in cranking compression before and after one dyno test implies that you had an ill prepared bore finish. I've never seen more than a 15psi difference before and after ring seating and that was on a re-ring job with a hand drill and ball hone about 15yrs ago.
70psi is a huge and unacceptable difference. Lots of bore/ring material had to be ground away to make that kind of difference. Not good stuff in a new engine.
Larry
70psi is a huge and unacceptable difference. Lots of bore/ring material had to be ground away to make that kind of difference. Not good stuff in a new engine.
Larry
Larry,
I am wondering if possibly one test was made with it cold and the other with it warmed up. Also I am wondering if there was any valve adjusting done between the two testings.
If there was an even test at same engine temp and with throttle open in both tests and no other things were changed, I am with you. He could have a filter and pan full of metal. That makes no sense if both compression tests were done in equal conditions.
I did think of something else that is not good. If his cam is going away that would allow it to show more compression.
I doubt if anyone moved any cam inbetween the two compression tests to change anything there.
Also This does not make sense to me.
And then you drove it home?
If I can read right you did not say that you towed your car. You said you towed your engine.
Then you drove it home?
Obviously you are not driving an engine home. It would be tough to steer.
So the only thing I can see is that you towed the car to the chassis dyno and then drove it home?
Ed
I am wondering if possibly one test was made with it cold and the other with it warmed up. Also I am wondering if there was any valve adjusting done between the two testings.
If there was an even test at same engine temp and with throttle open in both tests and no other things were changed, I am with you. He could have a filter and pan full of metal. That makes no sense if both compression tests were done in equal conditions.
I did think of something else that is not good. If his cam is going away that would allow it to show more compression.
I doubt if anyone moved any cam inbetween the two compression tests to change anything there.
Also This does not make sense to me.
You towed the engine to the dyno facility?Towed the engine to the dyno facility, and didnt have much time, and wound up with 238hp at 8000rpm. This is with the camshafts zero'ed and the ignition maps untouched. The plan was for 9000rpm but we ran out of time, and left it at that. I drove it home and performed a compression test, and was greeted with 250psi across all four cylinders
And then you drove it home?
If I can read right you did not say that you towed your car. You said you towed your engine.
Then you drove it home?
Obviously you are not driving an engine home. It would be tough to steer.
So the only thing I can see is that you towed the car to the chassis dyno and then drove it home?
Ed
im sorry guys, i typed that waaaay to fast!
I towed the car, engine and all, to the dyno facility, made sure she had a nice safe a/f ratio and then we started doing pulls, starting from 5k and working our way on up.
Ed-vanced you must be a mind reader! The first compression test was with the engine around 100 deg F coolant temp, and the throttles shut, the second with a fresh valve adjustment, 140 deg F coolant temp, and the throttles wide open.
Im draining the oil tomorrow into a fresh clean clear container, and inspecting the filter. If im alarmed by what i see, ill be dropping the pan, and maybe sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. Thanks for the replies.
I towed the car, engine and all, to the dyno facility, made sure she had a nice safe a/f ratio and then we started doing pulls, starting from 5k and working our way on up.
Ed-vanced you must be a mind reader! The first compression test was with the engine around 100 deg F coolant temp, and the throttles shut, the second with a fresh valve adjustment, 140 deg F coolant temp, and the throttles wide open.
Im draining the oil tomorrow into a fresh clean clear container, and inspecting the filter. If im alarmed by what i see, ill be dropping the pan, and maybe sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. Thanks for the replies.