Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

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Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby justahoby » Sat Jul 07, 2012 2:37 am

Been looking at the delima that has bewildered me since i been trying to make first gear useful on my pick up with rear coils, and manual trans.. wider radials and some weight in the bak helped but i actually twisted the frame. Now that i replaced the frame, and reinforced it, i am no longer running the 383 in front of the 5 speed... I have gone 454... any advise for from a dead stop take off to get this bastard to want to go instead of smoke at not even half throttle be great :)
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby MPac » Sat Jul 07, 2012 6:14 pm

What kind of rear suspsion do you have? Are you running any type of slicks?
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby justahoby » Sat Jul 07, 2012 7:29 pm

MPac wrote:What kind of rear suspsion do you have? Are you running any type of slicks?


I am Not running slicks, stock coil spring suspension.. I dropped the rear 2" it sits level now with no rake, and went to sensitrac shocks... and went with a little wider tire, on About 10 in wide rims, but is nothing really wide for the tires.... everything made a big improvement, but there something better for a pick up :)
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby crazyman » Sat Jul 07, 2012 8:18 pm

Just have fun. If you want to hook get DOT slicks or real slicks. Half the fun of a rod is to burn them at will............
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby MPac » Sat Jul 07, 2012 11:43 pm

I know what you mean about trying to get it to hook I had the same problems with my ford. Do you run with the tailgate down? What tire psi do you run at?
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby justahoby » Sun Jul 08, 2012 5:16 pm

MPac wrote:I know what you mean about trying to get it to hook I had the same problems with my ford. Do you run with the tailgate down? What tire psi do you run at?

Well when i got it to finally hook better ( still spinning like mad with the 383) i had 100 lbs thown in the back by the tail gate and dropped the pressure to just above 30psi.. that when the next day the truck sat funny and realized not only was i impressed how it took off, but my frame became twisted, and handling changed... I took it down to the frame,got a another and reinforced it where the frame curves, as it seemed to be the weakest but yet subtle point of change.. as well as a few other things... I may put an additional fuel tank behind the rear axle to add traction.
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby MPac » Sun Jul 08, 2012 11:42 pm

Drop your psi to 21 and see how it does. I would seriously consider getting slicks or at the very least drag radials. You said your rear had coil springs. Is it a coil spring with trailing arms setup? Are you getting any wheel hop when it spins? I know 21 sounds pretty low but when I dropped my f100 down to 21 it really made a differance with traction. But if you get slicks a little trick to go low on the psi is since you run tubes in them you can go lower but get 16 self tapping screws and run the through the rim into the slick 4 on each side of the rim. It makes for a cheap bead lock. You can then go down low like 10 psi. But beware if you do take them down to 10 or lower you'll get some ass end wiggle at the top end.

I'm curious what kind of times are you putting down at the track?
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby justahoby » Sun Jul 08, 2012 11:45 pm

MPac wrote:Drop your psi to 21 and see how it does. I would seriously consider getting slicks or at the very least drag radials. You said your rear had coil springs. Is it a coil spring with trailing arms setup? Are you getting any wheel hop when it spins? I know 21 sounds pretty low but when I dropped my f100 down to 21 it really made a differance with traction. But if you get slicks a little trick to go low on the psi is since you run tubes in them you can go lower but get 16 self tapping screws and run the through the rim into the slick 4 on each side of the rim. It makes for a cheap bead lock. You can then go down low like 10 psi. But beware if you do take them down to 10 or lower you'll get some ass end wiggle at the top end.

I'm curious what kind of times are you putting down at the track?


Yes the factory coils with like factory 4ft long arms.. until i tried different shocks wheel hop was very bad, still is some issue
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby MPac » Mon Jul 09, 2012 12:14 am

Sounds like you have an axle wrap situation going on. Which if I'm thinking correct would have cause the frame to twist. With the power your putting down have you considered ladder bars?
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby justahoby » Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:33 pm

MPac wrote:Sounds like you have an axle wrap situation going on. Which if I'm thinking correct would have cause the frame to twist. With the power your putting down have you considered ladder bars?


i never used ladder bars, but was actually considering it for other reasons than just traction, if i wanted to shorten the frame for shortbed,the proper way is to cut and weld in the middle ( not anxious to weaken my reinforced frame by doing it now i got a big block...) if i would benefit from ladder bars i would go ladders and move the axel up an sawsall off the back (improper way but feasible if i go different suspension anyway)..
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby MPac » Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:20 am

I would deffinatly consider ladder bars. But if you do your method of shorting the frame wouldn't it not work because the rear wheels would be out of the wheel arch area?
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby justahoby » Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:48 pm

MPac wrote:I would deffinatly consider ladder bars. But if you do your method of shorting the frame wouldn't it not work because the rear wheels would be out of the wheel arch area?



they would be towards the front of it, but even lowered i have looked at it i got plenty of space, but again with shock mounts and torsion bar it is easier to do the right way in the end
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby MPac » Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:03 pm

justahoby wrote:
MPac wrote:I would deffinatly consider ladder bars. But if you do your method of shorting the frame wouldn't it not work because the rear wheels would be out of the wheel arch area?



they would be towards the front of it, but even lowered i have looked at it i got plenty of space, but again with shock mounts and torsion bar it is easier to do the right way in the end



Why not look in to getting a shortbox chassis? Granted it would be more work but you would be better off I would think in everything being straight. Or another thought is when you go to shorten the frame why not just back half it to a shorter spec? Brand new back half kits are not to hateful on price.
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby cpmotors » Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:25 am

Better tires and an airbag would help- nothing wrong with the factory trailing arm suspension with some proper setup.

Friend of mine's '68 with a 572- frame has been reinforced and since I shot this video it has a cage in it now. Stock rear suspension with airbag I think he may have even added a second coil spring IIRC.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pki7p4pVBrw&feature=plcp
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Re: Getting a 69 c10 to hook..

Postby justahoby » Sat Aug 18, 2012 12:51 pm

cpmotors wrote:Better tires and an airbag would help- nothing wrong with the factory trailing arm suspension with some proper setup.

Friend of mine's '68 with a 572- frame has been reinforced and since I shot this video it has a cage in it now. Stock rear suspension with airbag I think he may have even added a second coil spring IIRC.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pki7p4pVBrw&feature=plcp


Yes, I am not removing the trailer arms and coil springs , except to air bag for traction. Just need to get a wider 6 lug rim for a little more width. Right now am running 6 lug from an 80s 4wd blazer. I had to reenforce where the curves are in the frame where they are in 4 spots. Seems to be the subtle spot where they twist :D
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