Which BBC Roller Cam Thrust Bearing/Wear Plate?

[apprentice1]

I have a Gen IV BBC being retro-fitted with a Hyd. Roller Cam. I will be using a Cloyes 9-3110 Original True Roller timing set. I have access to a cloyes 9-201 .031 thick steel thrust washer, a cloyes 9-220B .150" thick bronze thrust washer, and a comp 201 .030" thick moly-coated wear plate. Is there a certain one that is preferable, and would it work to machine the cam gear instead of the block to accomodate the thrust bearing/wear plate? If I have to machine the block for the .150 thick bronze thrust washer, does this affect the #1 cam bearing at all? Should I wait to have the cam in my possession so that I can correct any misalignments during this machining? Thanks for any insights or recommendations you may have!

[Wolfplace]

I have a Gen IV BBC being retro-fitted with a Hyd. Roller Cam. I will be using a Cloyes 9-3110 Original True Roller timing set. I have access to a cloyes 9-201 .031 thick steel thrust washer, a cloyes 9-220B .150" thick bronze thrust washer, and a comp 201 .030" thick moly-coated wear plate. Is there a certain one that is preferable, and would it work to machine the cam gear instead of the block to accomodate the thrust bearing/wear plate? If I have to machine the block for the .150 thick bronze thrust washer, does this affect the #1 cam bearing at all? Should I wait to have the cam in my possession so that I can correct any misalignments during this machining? Thanks for any insights or recommendations you may have!

I would machine the gear for any of them
If using anything except a Torrington bearing I drill a ±.030 hole into the middle of the thrust area that intersects the cam feed galley to pressure oil this area
Unnecessary with the Torrington
You could also groove the block under the cam bearing to the oil feed hole but I prefer to drill in the center of the thrust

If anyone tells you to just drill the galley plugs to oil this area run away
You do not oil the center of a rotating object by spraying oil at the outer part & this is not why GM drilled these plugs in the first place.

The only time I machine the block is if it is damaged & then I machine it just like the gear that takes a bearing or thrust plate is leaving an inner lip to center the bearing & hold it in place

All that said my best advice is to just order a timing set with the Torrington (or bronze shim) built in already,, much simpler

[Schurkey]

Or get a Gen 6-style step-nose cam and a thrust plate retainer system.

Takes a different (Gen 6)timing chain, but your cam walk problems are behind you. Block cannot wear, no rollers to drop into the pan, no screwing with a brass/nylon/whatever bumper against the timing cover.

If you can live with ~6000 rpm, the GM timing chain kit comes with everything you need except the camshaft, distributor gear, and fuel pump pushrod. Both sprockets, chain, retainer plate, and bolts are included.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12371053/

[apprentice1]

Thanks for the help and info on where to drill the oil hole...cam is already ordered, but next time the gen 6 style is a good choice. Thanks again