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Barry_R wrote:Why so frugal on something you want to go 7500?
Good rings are a hundred bucks, crappy ones are $40
I'd rather buy good rings and run used plugs, duct taped wires, mismatched valve covers, a frayed fan belt, rubber floor mats, only one wiper, six different brands of repurposed lug nuts, two different used front tires, a bungee cord for a trunk latch, because all that stuff is way easier to replace and fix when it breaks...




joedoozer wrote:When it blows up, $55 will seem like change you find in your couch cushions. Don't cut corners. If you have to park the car another week or a month, then so be it. That $55 can cost you thousands.


Alan Roehrich wrote:If cast rings are fine for a 6000 RPM 383, then thousands of guys have been doing it wrong for DECADES.
I won't put a plain cast ring in a stock rebuild unless no one makes a premium ring set for it. Ring seal is critical for both power and endurance/longevity.
If you buy cheap junk for parts, then everything you build with it is cheap junk. That's fine, if that's what you want.

ap72 wrote:Alan Roehrich wrote:If cast rings are fine for a 6000 RPM 383, then thousands of guys have been doing it wrong for DECADES.
I won't put a plain cast ring in a stock rebuild unless no one makes a premium ring set for it. Ring seal is critical for both power and endurance/longevity.
If you buy cheap junk for parts, then everything you build with it is cheap junk. That's fine, if that's what you want.
I'll get the moly faced top ring but what is the best brand? And yes moly faced cast iron. You can all call it cheap junk if you want but it suits my needs and the engine will probably never even make it to 50k miles, its for a nice weather toy, not a million mile truck or a race car. I just want good oil control and decent seal.


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