Here's an easy one....bearing lube

[af2]

I think we need a complete [Blank Post] analysis on this. It is just way too easy?

[Strange Magic]

If you want to put your ring package at a dis-advantage in the ability to seal to that freshly honed bore, then I would advise anyone who would be interested, to use oil on the rings and oil in the bore. This process will put the ring package at a dis-advantage, guaranteed.

If you would like to block or prohibit the flow of oil through your engine on initial start up, then use thick lube such as bearing guard and other assembly lube products. There is plenty to choose from and might be confusing at times when making a choice, so choose wisely. This approach will guaranty a clog or blockage, at least for the first few minutes when it's needed the most.

[brad_m]

If you want to put your ring package at a dis-advantage in the ability to seal to that freshly honed bore, then I would advise anyone who would be interested, to use oil on the rings and oil in the bore. This process will put the ring package at a dis-advantage, guaranteed.

If you would like to block or prohibit the flow of oil through your engine on initial start up, then use thick lube such as bearing guard and other assembly lube products. There is plenty to choose from and might be confusing at times when making a choice, so choose wisely. This approach will guaranty a clog or blockage, at least for the first few minutes when it's needed the most.

Real helpful

[Grp5L]

I feel like I'm coming out of the closet and admitting I'm an alcoholic.....

I use.....








Oil.



There, I said it!


The thing is, who is going to take a risk with a newly built motor? Not many people, so they slap on magic potions all over the place, but I did a test with my own many years ago. I used oil throughout, even (fully synthetic) on the new high lift cams
Utter madness! Lock me up!
Today after many hard miles, up to 8500 rpm, standing 1/4s etc it still ticks over like a swiss watch, has no signs of wear on the cams and has good oil pressure.

The best tests are the ones you do yourself because once that engine is in a customers hands you don't know what they are going to do with it.
Oil does not drain out of the bearing clearances, it's impossible, it is held in by capillary action. Put some in, build the motor, take it apart three years later and it will still be there. If you don't believe me test it yourself, stick some bearings onto an old crank (or part of) with oil, put the days date on it and place it out of the way and come back to it in a few years time.

Don't get me wrong here, I don't have anything against using other types of bearing lube as long as they are used sparingly, I just see it as an unnecessary expense and don't use them myself.

[nickmckinney]

I use Lubriplate 105 on my heads as oil runs down the valve stems when they sit for months and months (and even years) and that generated too many phone calls.

The difference with 105 its Calcium based instead of Lithium and blends in right away with motor oil unlike Lithium which globs up everywhere.

For main and rod bearings I see no reason for anything other than regular oil or Bearing Guard which is basically a "paste" oil in consistency.

For rings I was taught years ago to use WD40 for assembly, and when the motor is upside down before installing the oil pan I soak the bottom of the piston in regular oil and let it seep into the oil rings. Never had a ring seal problem this way.

[1745greg]

What about the Joe Gibbs bearing guard stuff if thats what its called.

[Strange Magic]

I must confess other areas of my engine builds that I use oil on. I use oil on the valve stems and a little on the seats prior to assembling the heads. I wanted all to believe I use some sort of grease or assembly lube on the stems when assembling, but I just can't go on with the lie. The truth is I just use oil.

I feel so much better now that I got that off my chest.

P.S. While I am at it and confessing, I also want everyone to know that i really don't disconnect the power to the ignition while canking the engine over and awaiting oil pressure. The truth of the matter is, I prime up the oil pump when on a stand and turn the engine with a ratchet over each and every quarter of a turn. I prime between each quarter of a crankshaft revolution for 720 degrees. This process takes about 4-7 minutes. I then put it on the dyno or into a race car and beat the living snot out of it immediately.

Ohh I am so ashamed, but feel much better that I said it.

P.S. I have one more thing to disclose, but I am just so teary eyed right now, I just can't bring myself to sharing it. Maybe later in this topic.

P.S.S. For those who want to make sure each and every part is bathed in oil, just put that drain plug in and fill the entire engine up right to the filler cap level. Let it sit for a day, a week or even a year. What ever you feel comfortable with. Then drain it all out and put the correct amount in. Save the rest of the oil for future changes.

[Wolfplace]

If you want to put your ring package at a dis-advantage in the ability to seal to that freshly honed bore, then I would advise anyone who would be interested, to use oil on the rings and oil in the bore. This process will put the ring package at a dis-advantage, guaranteed.

If you would like to block or prohibit the flow of oil through your engine on initial start up, then use thick lube such as bearing guard and other assembly lube products. There is plenty to choose from and might be confusing at times when making a choice, so choose wisely. This approach will guaranty a clog or blockage, at least for the first few minutes when it's needed the most.

I think we agree more than we disagree here but it appears we are turning the corner towards the all too familiar nothing can be correct except my way crap so I will leave with a few more thoughts,,,,,,,,

While I completely agree that oil is without a doubt a great lube for bearings if all you build is engines that you have complete control over the prelube & startup
Some of us don't always have this luxury

And although I don't go as far as putting pistons in dry I could not agree with you more. The days of slobbering up the pistons & walls with anything are long gone & a huge mistake,, especially with the cylinder finishes & rings of today.

But back to bearings,, and a few other points in a new engine

You make is sound like you do not believe in hi pressure lubricants anywhere in an engine
This I do not agree with
Even though I know this is not factual your comments seem to suggest that you fail to realize that there is in fact a mating period in which metal parts get cozy with each other regardless of how well they are machined.
Especially hi pressure points like the tips of pushrods, valve tips, rocker fulcrums, lobes & followers et al as applicable.
So making blanket statements like "oil" to every application is in my opinion misleading to the many that come here to learn

New if we keep the discussion to just the subject of bearings,,,, most of that last sentence does not apply and I agree completely with you that a lot, in fact most of the crap out there is not something I would consider using,, especially the greases, pastes, moly goo’s & magic mixes some come up with.

But grouping Clevite assembly lube with these, assuming it is used as intended, is misinformation
Clevite assembly lube is not going to clog anything & it is an excellent lubricant that readily mixes with oil & was developed specifically for bearings in conjunction with & for Clevite & used to be called "bearing guard"
It is "heavy" enough to cling to surfaces for extended periods of time to aid in initial start-up particularly in circumstances where an engine has to sit & / or cannot or will not get prelubed as it should
As stated , it does in fact mix with oil very well, it will not "clog up or block" anything,,

I have a few years in this field too, probably about 25 more than your 29 & I have never, not once seen any sign of this "clogging or blocking" using the very thing Clevite has been recommending for as long as I can remember

I am not saying your way is incorrect with regard to bearings at all for your applications.
I just do not agree with your response regarding one product in particular because I know for a fact it is incorrect
That being Clevite assembly lube will "clog or block" oil passages & /or somehow inhibit the flow of oil to the bearings
It will not.

[brad_m]

Is there any reason a few people needed to turn in to childish idiots?

[Blue Malibu]

I have used most of the assembly lubes out there and for me I like Bar and Chain Oil for everything except the cam and lifters And Rings. The reason for this is just simply one of cost. We can buy it by the gallon for the same price as a small tube of other assembly lubes. It may not be the absolute best but for the last 15 years it has worked and we have seen no reason to change.
Also we use Marvel Mystery Oil in a spray bottle for rings. Again it is somthing we have used for years and it works just as good as anything else we have ever tried.
Just my 2 cents.

[af2]

Is there any reason a few people needed to turn in to childish idiots?

Don't understand this post?

[340king]

I use the Torco stuff for the high pressure points. My experiment came when using it for Some piston and pin assembly (it was included in the piston kit). When I couldn't remove it from my hands with a dry paper towel I was intrigued. I compared the stickiness to other types of pre-lube and I liked what I felt. Not scientific, but your hands are about as good as anything at feeling stuff. Just saying.

On my recent snowmobile build I made a mixture of 2 stroke oil and a small amount of the Torco for start up. The engine had been sitting for 3 years. I cleaned it very well prior to injecting the mixture into the roller bearings. I just used the 2 stroke oil, Klotz techni-plate for the rings and piston lube. It worked very well. Snowmobiles are a little different since the fuel is mixed with the oil in the crankcase. I wanted good lube at start up since flooding with a new rebuild can occur. All went well.

I prime the automotive stuff very well, so there is no doubt that the majority of the pre-lube is pushed out or mixed with the oil. Now if we could just figure out a way to reduce the migration of the assembly lube for the bolts. That black moly stuff just ends up laying in the bottom of the pan.

[brad_m]

Is there any reason a few people needed to turn in to childish idiots?

Don't understand this post?

You can't see any childish posts in this thread?

[needforspeed66gt]

If you want to put your ring package at a dis-advantage in the ability to seal to that freshly honed bore, then I would advise anyone who would be interested, to use oil on the rings and oil in the bore. This process will put the ring package at a dis-advantage, guaranteed.

If you would like to block or prohibit the flow of oil through your engine on initial start up, then use thick lube such as bearing guard and other assembly lube products. There is plenty to choose from and might be confusing at times when making a choice, so choose wisely. This approach will guaranty a clog or blockage, at least for the first few minutes when it's needed the most.

I think we agree more than we disagree here but it appears we are turning the corner towards the all too familiar nothing can be correct except my way crap so I will leave with a few more thoughts,,,,,,,,

While I completely agree that oil is without a doubt a great lube for bearings if all you build is engines that you have complete control over the prelube & startup
Some of us don't always have this luxury

And although I don't go as far as putting pistons in dry I could not agree with you more. The days of slobbering up the pistons & walls with anything are long gone & a huge mistake,, especially with the cylinder finishes & rings of today.

But back to bearings,, and a few other points in a new engine

You make is sound like you do not believe in hi pressure lubricants anywhere in an engine
This I do not agree with
Even though I know this is not factual your comments seem to suggest that you fail to realize that there is in fact a mating period in which metal parts get cozy with each other regardless of how well they are machined.
Especially hi pressure points like the tips of pushrods, valve tips, rocker fulcrums, lobes & followers et al as applicable.
So making blanket statements like "oil" to every application is in my opinion misleading to the many that come here to learn

New if we keep the discussion to just the subject of bearings,,,, most of that last sentence does not apply and I agree completely with you that a lot, in fact most of the crap out there is not something I would consider using,, especially the greases, pastes, moly goo’s & magic mixes some come up with.

But grouping Clevite assembly lube with these, assuming it is used as intended, is misinformation
Clevite assembly lube is not going to clog anything & it is an excellent lubricant that readily mixes with oil & was developed specifically for bearings in conjunction with & for Clevite & used to be called "bearing guard"
It is "heavy" enough to cling to surfaces for extended periods of time to aid in initial start-up particularly in circumstances where an engine has to sit & / or cannot or will not get prelubed as it should
As stated , it does in fact mix with oil very well, it will not "clog up or block" anything,,

I have a few years in this field too, probably about 25 more than your 29 & I have never, not once seen any sign of this "clogging or blocking" using the very thing Clevite has been recommending for as long as I can remember

I am not saying your way is incorrect with regard to bearings at all for your applications.
I just do not agree with your response regarding one product in particular because I know for a fact it is incorrect
That being Clevite assembly lube will "clog or block" oil passages & /or somehow inhibit the flow of oil to the bearings
It will not.

Spot on as usual.

[quicksilver]

Clevite Bearing guard here- I use it on the bearings and on the cam, everything else gets oil. I do pack the pump with the bearing guard during assembly so when I prime the motor, it sends it everywhere.

No failures yet.

I would never use moly or moly grease in an engine for assembly. Hell, I think its been "banned" from Charlotte because it causes microscopic scratches in the bearing and journal surfaces and increases frictional drag... at least thats what I heard. Im sure there's variants of that story.

Edit: I do use either the Lucas assembly lube or Clevite bearing guard (whichever happens to be within reach) when im installing valves in the cylinder head. I just put a little on the stems and smear some on the seat as well. Sounds wierd to put it on the seat but I think it helps out the first few times it slams into the seat on first startup. Also put it on the tips of the valves between the rocker and between rocker and pushrod.