General engine tech -- Drag Racing to Circle Track
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by Belgian1979 » Tue Feb 28, 2012 1:35 pm
Dave Koehler wrote:Belgian1979 wrote:After reading it all here, I had Mike put a tube of JB Weld in my order. I will probably epoxy the bar on the top of the flange while keeping it level to the flange, using 2 screws to keep it in place. After my ordeal with the engine, I'm not sure I will find someone suitable doing the correct surfacing of the manifold, short of driving 300 kms to my engine machine shop.
Do you have a vertical mill?
No, not yet.
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Belgian1979
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by SchmidtMotorWorks » Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:32 pm
If your TIG welder is talented and careful, you shold be able to resurface it with a file.
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by rookie » Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:26 pm
Got my package today.
Well so far I am impressed, I did the but joint test with 2 pieces of 1/4" extruded t/hold and mangled them with pliers try to break them apart.
If some one would like to post the pictures I can email them and you can post them, I don't have a way to post pics.
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rookie
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by rookie » Sun Mar 04, 2012 12:03 pm
I don't know I just started working with it.
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by Orr89rocz » Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:33 pm
has anyone used JB weld to attach aluminum material to a port to build up gasket sealing surface area? I'm hoping to do this to my heads which were milled too much and left bottom port too thin. Hope to JB weld 1/8" thick aluminum bar to the head and hope it holds. THink this will work? I tested it on another peice of material and it seems to hold pretty strong
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by Belgian1979 » Tue Apr 10, 2012 2:39 am
Orr89rocz wrote:has anyone used JB weld to attach aluminum material to a port to build up gasket sealing surface area? I'm hoping to do this to my heads which were milled too much and left bottom port too thin. Hope to JB weld 1/8" thick aluminum bar to the head and hope it holds. THink this will work? I tested it on another peice of material and it seems to hold pretty strong
I have some JB Weld here now to perform something like this. Additionally I have used 3M 8115 as well. This is some pretty strong adhesive but I would not use it on the inside of the intake manifold, since I'm doubtfull about its usefullness in heated applications. However there are others.
I know the 3M 8115 from body applications. Today the mayor manufacturers use it every day in their production. The metal will usually shear before the joint will. I know they make adhesives that hold up to more than 200°C no problem. You need to ask around and study each one of them before using it. There are a bunch of these things around.
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by Orr89rocz » Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:57 am
Yeah I read some threads here and seems like alot of people do similar things with a wide variety of adhesives and epoxys so any should work. My addition will be on the bottom side of the cylinder head, no the inside of the port. My worry is the bar falling off and falling into the motor from the oil drain back slots. Thought about installing a mesh screen in the lifter valley to prevent that from happening.
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by Belgian1979 » Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:17 am
Orr89rocz wrote:Yeah I read some threads here and seems like alot of people do similar things with a wide variety of adhesives and epoxys so any should work. My addition will be on the bottom side of the cylinder head, no the inside of the port. My worry is the bar falling off and falling into the motor from the oil drain back slots. Thought about installing a mesh screen in the lifter valley to prevent that from happening.
Just thinking out load, but maybe thread some bolts or something similar through the bar, put glue on the bar and fasten it. I would do something like that to the inside of the runner, if it wasn't so difficult to drill in that location.
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by Orr89rocz » Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:35 am
Heads are on the car, I didnt want to take them off now thats its torqued down but I guess that would be the "best" solution. Just "easier" to epoxy at this point but I know in my mind drilling/screwing would be better.
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