Water & Oil Temps

General engine tech -- Drag Racing to Circle Track

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Water & Oil Temps

Postby la360 » Mon Dec 06, 2004 2:11 am

What kind of temps should I be shooting for with my water and oil temps for best power. I have a factory 360 Chrysler block with a half fill. I have been told to aim for around 140-160 degrees with the water, what about the oil temps??? I would be interested to hear anyone's thoughts and experiences.
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Postby John » Mon Dec 06, 2004 9:41 am

I've always run my motors on the dyno at 180 degrees at the beginning of the pull because I thought it would best simulate what the motor sees in the car (endurance racing). Interestingly, I decided to make a pull at 160 recently and found absolutely no difference in power. Nearly identical numbers. This was on alcohol. I wonder if the situation might be different on gasoline?
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Postby Todd H » Mon Dec 06, 2004 11:32 am

I used to work in an engine shop with a 901 Superflow. While I never ran the dyno the horsepower always seemed to get better the hotter the motor got. I assume it was due to the oil getting thinner. These were all dry sump circle track motor on gasoline (358-9:1). Although back in those days we never ran synthetic oil either. I would have guessed that a motor would have made more power cool. Anyone else have any info on this? Todd
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Postby John » Mon Dec 06, 2004 1:53 pm

I did see an extra pound of oil pressure when running the motor at 160, so the oil temp must have been lower as well as the water temp. I didn't suspect this because the pulls were made within 10 min and the oil is housed in an external dry sump tank. Maybe any increase related to lowering water temp was offset by a decrease related to lowering oil temp. With thinner synthetic oil I bet there might be an advantage to running cooler.
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Postby la360 » Tue Dec 07, 2004 2:27 am

Has anyone got any figures in relation to actual oil temps? There are a few guys on here with dyno's in their shops, I was hoping to get a little info here.
Thanks
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Postby Todd H » Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:05 am

Al, as best I remember there was about 25 horsepower difference in the engine with the oil tem at 160 degrs vs 200 degrs. Just be aware that this was not using synthetic oil. Todd
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Postby Darin Morgan » Tue Dec 07, 2004 12:26 pm

la360 wrote:Has anyone got any figures in relation to actual oil temps? There are a few guys on here with dyno's in their shops, I was hoping to get a little info here.
Thanks
AL...


All naturally aspirated gasoline burning engines drop 2.5 horsepower for every ten degrees of temperature increase and 4 per 10 after 165F. You can flip it around ( hot heads, cold low viscosity oil or cold heads and hot high viscosity oil) but the mean average drop in power is still 3.25:10. 3.25 horsepower per 10 degrees. A Pro stock engine is launched as cold as we can get them. If I could launch that &%%$# at 65 degrees I would do it in a heart beat! Heat Kills power. I know I have some people who will disagree with me on this but I have proven it over and over and over again. A cold engine with ultra low viscosity oil will fly on the race track. In most forms of racing a cold engine is an impossibility so tuning factors must be instrumented to overcome the heat. Cold engines are only practical in Drag racing so it as mute point in any other form of racing to even consider running the engine cold. If you run an engine at 180F then you tune the combination to run the best at that temp. If you take the same engine and TUNE it to run at a colder temp,,,, Its an easy 15 to 20 horsepower.

Did you know that some aluminum rods drop 35% in tensile strength from ambient to 300 degrees? Think about that a minute.


I would like to here rebuttal and the views on this topic from some of our other posters.
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Postby shawn » Tue Dec 07, 2004 2:29 pm

I think that with the increase in better and lighter oils, the days of "hot oil, cool motor" have went away. The need to get the oil hot to "thin" it out for hp is over. I agree with you, the cooler everything is, the better. It shows on the dyno and at the track.
One old trick we used to use on older dual plane, stock type intakes was to make sure the heat crossover was blocked at the head, the drill and tap for a fitting on the outside of the crossover passage. Then use and old cool can, pack it with ice, and put a small pump motor on it to circulate ice cold water under the intake through that crossover passage. Worked pretty well.
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Postby la360 » Tue Dec 07, 2004 2:44 pm

So basically, what you're saying is run a light viscosoity oil, and run it as cold as possible? I had heard similar things from a few guys, most of which that are running all out single carbed, 300 odd cubic inch Comp Eliminator style engines.
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Postby Todd H » Tue Dec 07, 2004 4:21 pm

Darin, I don't doubt what your say at all. It's just that I witnessed this time and time again. Would the carb jetting change from a cool engine to a hot engine? What could or would cause the power to rise as the motor got hotter? Like I said I wasn't the dyno operator just the machinist. I always thought it was odd that the motor made more power hot than cold and I'd love to know the answers. Todd H
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Postby Guest » Tue Dec 07, 2004 6:17 pm

Todd H wrote:Darin, I don't doubt what your say at all. It's just that I witnessed this time and time again. Would the carb jetting change from a cool engine to a hot engine? What could or would cause the power to rise as the motor got hotter? Like I said I wasn't the dyno operator just the machinist. I always thought it was odd that the motor made more power hot than cold and I'd love to know the answers. Todd H


I don't doubt that you saw the engine do exactly what you say it did. I have seen the same thing. In its current tuning configuration is was tuned well at that temp. The oil was happy, the jetting was happy and I have no doubt that the cam timing was also happy at that temp. Now, If you took that engine and tuned it to run colder, it would make more power. I have seen engines on the dyno with that thick monkey snoot 20w50 oil in them and we take it out, put in some good 05w add some jet, advance the cam and rank the thing at 100 degrees instead of 180 and it gains about 15 to 20 horsepower every time. I am not trying to make a case for ALL engines to be run in this manner, A lot of Super Gas racers cant get away with running them at 100 or 120 because they are making so many runs its hard to get that temp back down before the next run. They have to have a consistent temp to make consistent runs so fighting temp for that last hundredth of a second is not in there best interest and totally contradictory to what they are trying to achieve which is the same ET run after run. They should still try and keep them as cool as they possibly can. With some of these high horsepower engines ( 1200 to 1300hp) that these guys are trying to run in S/C you will see engine damage at high temps. If the chamber temp gets to high they will lift a ring land. I had a customer that purchased one of our 622 engines for S/C and he kept melting the thing. He was running it at 220!!!! I was on the phone with him for over an hour walking through everything he does prior and after a run but nothing stuck out. He did everything normally except one thing. He used the propylene Glycol instead of plain water and the guy who sold it to him told him told him it would dissipate heat better at a high temp so he believed him and melted his engine, TWICE. by the way, there is nothing better to cool your engine than plain old water. A water wetter helps but Anti freeze actually degrades the rate at which water can pull the heat out of the head Propylene Glycol is the worst! Its like trying to cool an engine with molasses. If you have to run antifreeze run the Ethylene Glycol and run it as low a percentage as possible.


In our case that last hundredth is a life or death matter so we take things to extreme. We have a high pressure Ice water injector in the pits that can take the engine temp to 50F in a matter of minutes. We warm the rear end up and break in the clutch, go through the gears, make sure everything is fine then shut the engine down and flash cool it to 50 or 60 degrees. Then we are ready for a run. After the burn out the engine is at 100-110 and that is the launch temp.
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Postby Darin Morgan » Tue Dec 07, 2004 6:18 pm

By the way, the post above is me, I forgot to log in.
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Postby Todd H » Tue Dec 07, 2004 6:57 pm

Thanks Darin, what an insight that was for me. I had always though the motor should run better cooler but that contradicted what I saw when I was in the business. Thanks again, Todd H
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Postby Todd H » Tue Dec 07, 2004 6:59 pm

Darin, one other question while we are on the topic, do you have to run more piston clearance with the engine cold. I know that some engines can cold seize a piston if not warmed properly. Todd
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Postby Guest » Tue Dec 07, 2004 7:30 pm

Darin i know you are talking drag engines but in circle track we have the oil temp at 250 to 280 before we qualify and the engine water temp at about 100.After 2 laps at loudon NH our oil temp drops to 120 to 150 are you saying that if we could keep the engine water and oil temp cold it would be better.When i dyno my cicle track stuff i set the water temp at 190 and oil to 210 for the pull yes it takes a long time to get it there but i have been able to keep it with in 10 deg of doing it that way from pull to pull using moblie 1 30w and i keep my clearance tight mains .0025 rods .0018 and oil pressure dry sump 50 LBS i see my best dyno number when the oil is that hot never tryed the water colder or is this strickly all drag racing and will not relate to circle track.



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