I was visiting with Kevin Willis this morning (Auto Performance Engines in Auburndale, FL) and suddenly thought to ask him about this as we were admiring a Dart block. He said that if you thread studs in until they contact the shank or unthreaded body they will have a slight cant to them. Is this what you are referring to? This might not mean the stud will contact the interior of the hole in the cap but it certainly means the force applied will not be square and even and this would encourage the rocking/movement/fretting.Wolfplace wrote:Because they are clamping the caps tighter which may distort them differentlyfalcongeorge wrote:So then why would you need to align hone the block when you changed to studs?? just asking...Wolfplace wrote:
The bolts or studs do not have anything to do with location they just clamp the cap
Change your bolt torque by 10 lbs or so sometime I see what happens
And another point on the studs which was brought up above about them not being necked down is many times you do need to open the holes for them
You do not want the studs influencing or interfering with the registers or dowels whichever the case may be with regard to cap alignment
Kevin said that he thought it was mentioned in either the ARP catalog or the literature provided with the studs that they should be screwed in till fully seated and then backed out a bit for this reason.