Cylinder Head Epoxy

RyanJ · Post by **RyanJ** » Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:59 pm

So what are all you guys using for intake port epoxy? "Rumor" has it that Chapman is using A-788 "Splash Zone" Marine/aquatic epoxy made by Z-Spar. Only poxy I have heard of that is resistant to methanol? Just would like to get some insight into if anyone else is truly using A-788 before I purchase as it is not cheapest stuff in world. I did finally find a source for 2 Quarts, ~$62. I could'nt see buying in 2, 4 or even 10 gallon amounts like most marine supply houses want to sell it in.

I've done the traditional A+B and JB etc.... just looking for the BEST product out there for intake manifold, and intake port runner development work.

speedtalk · Post by **speedtalk** » Mon Sep 13, 2004 1:31 am

RyanJ wrote:"Splash Zone" by Z-Spar

Hey Ryan. Yep, that's the same stuff I use. Never used it with alcohol though.

Darin Morgan · Post by **Darin Morgan** » Mon Sep 13, 2004 10:21 am

A-788 Splash Zone or Kop-Koat which ever name you prefer, is the ONLY epoxy I have ever seen that will stand up to the rigors of racing. If you use it with Alcohol you have to seal it with a clear coat paint in order to seal it off. You can use clear Acrylic or Emron clear coat. After you shape the epoxy to what you want, wash the head, dry it and clean it with Acetone. Then heat it up to 150 degrees and apply the Acrylic clear coat over the top of it and make sure to get the edges. Don't be shy with the stuff. Let it dry for 12 to 24 hours.

All epoxies will break down with Alcohol. Its just to corrosive. This procedure will make it last ten time longer.

Darin Morgan
R&D-Cylinder Head Dept.
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
1120 Enterprise Place
Arlington Texas 76001
817-467-7171
FAX-468-3147

RyanJ · Post by **RyanJ** » Mon Sep 13, 2004 11:35 pm

Excellent info, thanks Darin.

Post by **maxracesoftware** » Mon Sep 13, 2004 11:41 pm

I've been using A-788 Splash Zone or Kop-Koat purchased from Reher-Morrison ...but just using Devcon 2-Ton Clear epoxy ontop as a sealer/guard ...also making sure edges are coated to up along port walls
and with Electric Space Heaters to pre-heat and post heat

but i'll try out Acrylic or Emron clear coat

Darin... Thanks for the Tip !!

Darin Morgan · Post by **Darin Morgan** » Tue Sep 14, 2004 9:47 am

We carry the stuff in Quarts,Pints and Gallons. its $150.0 for a two gallon kit and $69.00 for quarts. The shelf life is about one year.

John Haskell · Post by **John Haskell** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 2:12 am

One other option for a sealer is a product name of Gasoila. A plumbers sealer and hardens solid. Nothing gets through it as I know. There are two types, one white & non hardening, the other is Red and hardens. Red is what you want. Just brush it on but it doesn't have much in shelf life. ------ I used it on vlave seats/chambers when cutting heads w/acid avoiding the cutting on those parts. I found the product from a fella named Beecher Hetland that some may know. ------ You can find this at your local Familian plumber supply.

Grocerius Maximus · Post by **Grocerius Maximus** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 6:10 am

John Haskell wrote:One other option for a sealer is a product name of Gasoila. A plumbers sealer and hardens solid. Nothing gets through it as I know. There are two types, one white & non hardening, the other is Red and hardens. Red is what you want. Just brush it on but it doesn't have much in shelf life. ------ I used it on valve seats/chambers when cutting heads w/acid avoiding the cutting on those parts.

How do you get it off afterwards?

John Haskell · Post by **John Haskell** » Sun Oct 24, 2004 8:34 am

Using a cartrige roll. --- A knife will peel it of the fingers.

user-9613590 · Post by **user-9613590** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 3:04 pm

Darin Morgan wrote:We carry the stuff in Quarts,Pints and Gallons. its $150.0 for a two gallon kit and $69.00 for quarts. The shelf life is about one year.

What happens after that year on the shelve? Is it completely useless and how to tell it is? (have been some trouble with epoxy tearing off from ports but that's been just lately.The stuff looks and feels just the same as new (well,maybe they are bit thicker in the cans) but now there is some complains about it coming off.Since there is no "Best before" date in package or any recommendation about how to store it how to know when it is old?)

hollywood63 · Post by **hollywood63** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 4:31 pm

I tried HiTemp Lab Metal and it seems to be alright. Never used it on a alky thou

doctorpipe · Post by **doctorpipe** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:49 am

I used fiberglass resin years ago with alky and had no problem. That was a long time ago though. It never let go or got mushy. I don't know if currently available stuff works as good.
Doc

hotrod · Post by **hotrod** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 1:28 am

Hmmm - looks like interesting stuff, but looks like the red stuff is not alcohol rated!

http://www.gasoila.com/index.php?path=r ... 4d5c81a91a

Other options might include:
http://www.hirschauto.com/acb/showdetl. ... =6&CATID=3

Side note -- in the boat building business they coat the boat bottoms with a resin filled with flaked aluminum to resist water penetration for boats stored on the water. Has anyone tried adding some flaked aluminum to the top layer of epoxy to increase its resistance to penetration?

A friend of mine used to mix epoxy and flake aluminum to fill intake manifold heat riser passages, you can buy the aluminum flake in 1 pound cans at fiberglass suppliers.

Larry

PWMAX · Post by **PWMAX** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 6:22 am

Is the A-788 a moldable puddy like epoxy, like the moroso 2 part stuff, or is is more runny like Jb weld?

Ron E · Post by **Ron E** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 9:41 am

PWMAX wrote:Is the A-788 a moldable puddy like epoxy, like the moroso 2 part stuff, or is is more runny like Jb weld?

It lies somewhere in between. Not as solid as the typical "A B" epoxy sticks, but more solid than JB. It's semi-formable with damp fingers. Just over-apply, and bring into shape after it's cured.

Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

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