High lift doors

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mk e
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High lift doors

Post by mk e » Fri Sep 07, 2018 9:41 am

Not sure this is interesting to anyone other than me but I'm (slowly)building a new garage. I went with a 10' ceiling so there is no issue with the engine crane or adding a lift at some point.

That go me looking at high lift door setups to get the door up near the ceiling. I found that if I bought the doors at the door place they would install them however I wanted but the quotes were about $500/door more than the same door at homedepot....and i need 3...an my wife wants to change the 2 on the house to match what she picked for the new garage. That's a lot of money....

I found a door place online that does highlight conversion kits. They sell you brackets plus a section of track for $200 or just brackets and you cut the track off the back end of the track you have ( highlift means it doesn't need as much in back) for $125.

But then the doors we picked out (clopay) come with extension springs and highlight needs torsion....and the clopay torsion upgrade won't work either. So it needs a torsion conversion for another $200 and shipping was almost another $200. Yuck

I found a local door place that sells parts and bought the torsion stuff with highlift drums and springs and a set of winding bars for $240.

Then I just cut the back off the upper tracks and welded it to the vertical tracks for free. I bought L-brackets at lowes for $2 each to support it...so $4/door instead of $125 :)

Note the extensions need to be welded at about 6 degrees because the top roller is normally on the radius and not aligned with the other rollers.

I used the cables that came with the extension spring setup and cut to length then use a crimp on cable end...25 cents each.

It came out pretty good. I just bought parts for 1 to see how it went...even Lana said it's nice and wondered why all doors aren't done that way and that is a HUGE compliment, normally she just rolls her eyes when I show her garage/shop stuff.....the down side is she want the new house doors done the same way.

I went up 24" figuring tracks are built for 8' and I have 10. Looking at it now I probably could have gone 27" or 28".....the 10' wall sits on 3.5"-4" of block, I forgot about that.

Also note that normal openers won't work with this setup, you need a liftmaster opener that turns the torsion shaft. I'm not sure I'll ever add openers but I did put outlets in the ceiling near the shaft just in case.
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Mark
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n2xlr8n
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Re: High lift doors

Post by n2xlr8n » Fri Sep 07, 2018 9:54 am

Finally!

A lifetime of study paying off. :wink:

Back to the Ferrari.

Nice job as usual, Mark.
He who is in me is greater than he who is in the world.

mk e
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Re: High lift doors

Post by mk e » Fri Sep 07, 2018 10:06 am

I need to get the car and equipment into the garage....so I needed a door that I could open :)
Mark
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Re: High lift doors

Post by Leftcoaster » Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:18 am

Mark, among other talents you're "a writer born"

While your technical literacy and "can do" approach is encouraging, your acceptance of Family vicissitudes is nothing short of exemplary :wink:

mk e
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Re: High lift doors

Post by mk e » Thu Sep 13, 2018 8:08 am

Leftcoaster wrote:
Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:18 am
Mark, among other talents you're "a writer born"
If only I were a speller or proofreader born.....I post some pretty egregious errors. :oops:

I started the down threat just thinking maybe I'm not the only one who never gave doors a second thought.....open/close good!. The garage on my house has an almost 11ft ceiling but the bottom of the opened door is just over 7 and Lana it always smacking the hatch into it. Working in my dad's garage as a kid I had to close the door in the hot summer to do engine work....buts it's only a couple hundred bucks to move the door up to the ceiling and be done with that nonsense.....live and learn.
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Re: High lift doors

Post by 68post » Thu Mar 14, 2019 10:54 am

Congratulation on this being successful, you got lucky. (Edit. I see you had help in the hardware dept. it's been a good bit since I'd read what you'd done, but wanted to get back to post a proper reply. This is not something a regular DIY'er would pull-off successfully)

Notice how much more door you have hanging vertically, this is extra weight that a door w/o glass would cause you to have-to overwind the spring(s) when using the original torsion spring(s), but the door operation would still not be perfectly balanced.
The small size, and type/weight, of the door affords it to have less of a difference in this case (if you do not change springs also).
The heavier the door and the larger the change in track geometry - the larger the mistake becomes.

Small door companies may have closer pricing that allows small upgrades to be more affordable - compared to big "brand names".

Best to order the door with "High-lift" instead of re-engineering it ! (also the lumberyard "wind with a drill" spring setups are notoriously poor quality and their life expectancy is very short, and I hate nylon rollers that do not use bearings, you can tell a difference in rolling effort too, and nylon bushings in the torsion assembly. IE - a Fischer-Price torsion setup)

The; springs, drums, and cable length will all change depending on the application.

People will also need to be aware that a normal drawbar style operator now cannot be used and a jackshaft operator must be used.

Nowadays a taller/longer track radius of either 20" or 32" can be used, vs. normal 12" or 15"radius, and achieve the same effect as a short high-lift, plus you can use a conventional drawbar operator with an extended arm. These setups will also use a ; spring/drum/cable setup that's different than a standard "normal headroom " application and more tailored to their high-lift.

You can use a conventional operator on a ""full-vertical" door, if you know what you're doing !

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Re: High lift doors

Post by seapacer84 » Mon Mar 18, 2019 8:05 am

Nice work on the garage door.

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