I finally found it!

[Darin Morgan]

I have searched for over 20 years for a substance that will seal a cylinder head forever. I recently had to extensively weld on a set of heads and there was no way I was going to seal this thing up entirely due to the contamination in the water jacket. You always have pin holes or god forbid a crack that you just chase and never seal up. These heads had a nasty crack a half inch long that just rained water out of it. I found a gas tank sealer called KREEM that will seal just about any crack or pin hole leak for GOOD. You just clean the head, pour it in and coat the entire water jacket, let it dry and do it twice more. The really cool thing about this stuff is that it does not change the thermal properties of the cylinder heads. If it does its so imperceptible as to be not worth talking about. It comes in a kit complete with metal prep for those rusty old cast iron heads. It does not react to alcohol, race fuel or other solvents. Its also remains pliable and expands and contracts with the heads. It also adheres to the water jacket even if it has residual rust like nothing I have ever seen. If you have a leaky head that you just cant fix, You can fix it with this stuff. You can inquire where to find it here.

KREEM Products
PO box 399 Somis California
805-386-4470

[Dave Koehler]

Cool, I have been looking for something to line aluminum tanks against methanol.
Thanks for the heads up.

[MrWOT]

Easily flowable at room temp? Great find.

[582r10]

Dude, not to rain on anyone's parade but Kreem has to be applied to a spotless surface or it will flake off in sheets. Ask any biker who has had to stop twenty times to clean out his fuel filter just to ride 5 miles. If you use this stuff you need to make sure where you're putting it is spotless. We used to acid etch old fuel tanks, clean them with acetone and then apply it. It can still come off even with perfect prep. I've used a lot of it over the years and wouldn't put it in anything now. Just trying to help, maybe save you some trouble or money somewhere down the road.

Roger

[Darin Morgan]

Dude, not to rain on anyone's parade but Kreem has to be applied to a spotless surface or it will flake off in sheets. Ask any biker who has had to stop twenty times to clean out his fuel filter just to ride 5 miles. If you use this stuff you need to make sure where you're putting it is spotless. We used to acid etch old fuel tanks, clean them with acetone and then apply it. It can still come off even with perfect prep. I've used a lot of it over the years and wouldn't put it in anything now. Just trying to help, maybe save you some trouble or money somewhere down the road.

Roger

Have you ever used it to seal a head? Do you have a heads up on anything that is better? I have heard of it coming off in gas tanks but what about just water. I am hoping that against water it will hold . I know Caswell Gas tank sealer works just as good if not better than KREEM but its thick and makes the head run a little hot. I have used the Caswell many times and it stops leaks in it tracks like this stuff did but its just to thick to use on a comp or Pro-Stock head. on If you know of something that's better to use for us guys out here desperate to seal up a crappy head I am all ears!!!!

I will keep everyone posted as to how these heads I have coated turn out. If I see any problems or anything that looks like it might be a problem I will post on this thread.

[Jerminator96]

Perhaps the difference is in the heat? I know I have never had any luck with KREEM the few times I used in in a gas tank, but it was never baked on at a few hundred degrees like the cylinder head will see.

[cboggs]

Darin,

I'll have to find my old notebooks to check manuf names, .. but I've used a bunch of gas tank sealer type stuff over the years, ..
all of it was fairly thin enough to work around a water jacket, ..
but it ALL came loose or had to be redone at some point in the heads life!

I'm VERY thankful for you sharing, .. but I suspect you're going to at the least end up re-applying in the near future.
But, .. it would be nice if something was found that did work, .. for that, I hope your stuff isn't the name in my notebook.

Curtis

[MadBill]

It might help to build block off plates and pressurize the head while sloshing the sealer around. That way, even if some came off various surfaces, it might be retained in the crevices. That's the way I did my BBC aluminum heads (heated too) many years ago with sodium silicate, per Smokey's directions.

[582r10]

Dude, not to rain on anyone's parade but Kreem has to be applied to a spotless surface or it will flake off in sheets. Ask any biker who has had to stop twenty times to clean out his fuel filter just to ride 5 miles. If you use this stuff you need to make sure where you're putting it is spotless. We used to acid etch old fuel tanks, clean them with acetone and then apply it. It can still come off even with perfect prep. I've used a lot of it over the years and wouldn't put it in anything now. Just trying to help, maybe save you some trouble or money somewhere down the road.

Roger

Have you ever used it to seal a head? Do you have a heads up on anything that is better? I have heard of it coming off in gas tanks but what about just water. I am hoping that against water it will hold . I know Caswell Gas tank sealer works just as good if not better than KREEM but its thick and makes the head run a little hot. I have used the Caswell many times and it stops leaks in it tracks like this stuff did but its just to thick to use on a comp or Pro-Stock head. on If you know of something that's better to use for us guys out here desperate to seal up a crappy head I am all ears!!!!

I will keep everyone posted as to how these heads I have coated turn out. If I see any problems or anything that looks like it might be a problem I will post on this thread.

No I never used it in a head but it did have me nearly to the point of throwing a set of 1947 Harley gas tanks. Hell maybe it'll work in water jackets, maybe the heat makes a difference. The idea of putting it in and then pressurizing the head seems like it could work ok. Maybe the Caswell stuff could be thinned out a bit and applied in multiple coats to end up with a more uniform/thinner overall coating that would stay put.

Roger
582r10

[Old School]

It might help to build block off plates and pressurize the head while sloshing the sealer around. That way, even if some came off various surfaces, it might be retained in the crevices. That's the way I did my BBC aluminum heads (heated too) many years ago with sodium silicate, per Smokey's directions.

I really couldn't tell the coating made mine any faster. After the wife came in to a house smelling strange and slightly smoky I didn't get to use her oven anymore.

[MadBill]

Yeah, they do get kinda huffy when we 're-purpose' their stuff...

[LJW]

Do a Google search on "plastic impregnated aluminum castings". Lots of information about process and providers.
The only downside is that weld repairs are almost impossible after a casting is treated.

Larry

[clevo]

Darrin
Have you tried POR15 ? Heres a link. http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Restor ... oducts/12/

[TORQUE INC]

http://damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf

Might be worth a shot Darin

The tech people used to be helpful thing is like Kreem the inside of whatever you are trying to seal needs to be basically spotless.

Kinda why my Kreemed 78 superglide tank is still in the weeds where i threw it.

[Ellis6]

Hi Darin,

There is a process available commercially to seal porosity in aluminum and magnesuim sand castings to make them water tight. Its primarily used for aircraft engine and gearbox components to keep them from weeping oil and fluids. I'm not sure how big the crack is that you are trying to fix, but this process might be the ticket. Basically, the part is submerged in a tank of water soluable plastic resin, and a vacuum is pulled on the tank, pulling the resin into the porosity and voids. Then the parts are removed and rinsed in water, removing all the resin except where it entered into the porosity. A baking step cures the resin hard. A last step is typically a pressure test to verify there is no leakage.

This is not a do it yourself process, but its not expensive to have it done. There is a MIL spec that controls the process, and there are several providers around the US that offer this service. I have used an outfit in Cleveland, but off hand I don't remember their name. To have a large helicopter gearbox housing "sealed" and pressure tested was on the order of $75.

If you'd like more detail, email me at dellis@cmm-measure.com and I will find tyhe info and post up here. I'm not at work right now and likely to forget without a reminder.

Good luck,

Dirk