8 3/4 mopar

Transmission to Rear-end

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dondon
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8 3/4 mopar

Post by dondon » Sat Sep 08, 2018 4:46 pm

Is it necessary to remove the thrust block from the carrier when you put in green bearings on an 8 3/4 mopar rear end axles? Thanks.

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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by Diodedog » Sat Sep 08, 2018 10:00 pm

Yes, it should be removed or the axle may touch it before the bearing seats.

Geoff2
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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by Geoff2 » Sun Sep 09, 2018 2:36 am

All the Mopar 8 3/4" rears I have seen had one wheel brg that was adjustable via a castellated nut to adjust this preload.

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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by bigblockmopar » Sun Sep 09, 2018 5:15 am

The Green (ball) bearings remove that adjustability as they are fixed in position with a simple retainer plate, instead of the adjuster on one side.
The axle ends don't (shouldn't) touch anything in the center anymore.

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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by j-c-c » Sat Sep 15, 2018 2:15 pm

When you say "thrust block", do you mean the two small round thrust caps inserted and installed and held by a press pin?
Life gets complicated if these two thrust pins separate upon an axle removal, and drop anywhere inside they shouldn't.

One thing not considered yet here, if one was ordering new axles, they could be slightly shorter I suspect and this question would then also be resolved, or use a cut off wheel and shorten your axles and dress them, not sure why the two last would be one's first choice, but it would solve the issue.

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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by dondon » Sun Sep 16, 2018 11:00 pm

the thrust block is used in the cone type posi unit and some one wheel differentials, the pin type is used in the clutch type posi. I am dealing with the cone type. I thought about shortening the axles but that creats problems when I want change pumpkins when I want to run it at the dragstrip. After I get the "A" body axles drilled to 4.5 B.C. I will find out for sure.

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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by dondon » Thu Sep 27, 2018 3:30 am

I measured a thrust block form a cone posi and a pin from a clutch posi. They both measured about 1.50 inches. I put the axles in another "A" body housing without the backing plates, that measured about 1.350 between the axle ends, so I figured I"m safe with the backing plates and a gasket on both ends

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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by rebelrouser » Fri Oct 19, 2018 11:43 am

to answer your question yes you should remove the blocks. I will tell you from experience that the green bearings on a drag car and a spool work fine. But if you are driving the axle on the street with an open or posi style OEM carrier, the green bearings will not last a lot of street miles. I started using the stock tapered bearings on my narrow street axles, you just have to be good on your measurements when you cut and weld it and it works much better as far as wear over miles.

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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by af2 » Fri Oct 19, 2018 6:06 pm

You have to take the spacer out period when using the Green bearings. The biggest problem with the green bearing was the fact the rear axle tubes were not within .010" straight! Ran many since 1980 and the only reason they failed was from axle tubes bent or not set up correct when shortened. IE bent!!
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Re: 8 3/4 mopar

Post by bigblockmopar » Fri Oct 19, 2018 6:14 pm

I narrowed a C-body read end to A-body width and switched to new axle with Green bearings in the process.
During the narrowing any alignment-issues are automaticly corrected (if done correctly) so the bearings should last longer than on a crooked(stock) rear axle housing.

I've been daily driving my Dodge Dart with the narrowed rear axle for over 6 years already with no issues on the bearings or anything.

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