Drag radial turned on rim

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SupStk
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Re: Drag radial turned on rim

Postby SupStk » Sat Aug 19, 2017 9:16 pm

steve cowan wrote:Hi supstk,
Do you change rear wheels side to side or remove tyres off rims and change sides also I think you would have to reverse tyre to directional arrow facing forward or don't you worry about directional arrow
Sorry if sounds confusing


No I switch the whole assembly (tire and wheel). Disregard the arrows, serial numbers or what ever else the manufacturer uses to identify tire rotation direction. I do install the recommend way when new.
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Re: Drag radial turned on rim

Postby steve cowan » Sun Aug 20, 2017 5:19 am

monty,
thank you very much for the information
this is my first car i have used a drag radial on
i was thinking of swapping from side to side after each meeting,i usually have a skid every 2 weeks plus street driving
i am trying to get 12 months out of a set of tyres
the other thing was when i bought these drag radials new they were already 2 years old from the date on the tyre,me says they are old from the get go
any thoughts....

steve c

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Re: Drag radial turned on rim

Postby SupStk » Thu Sep 07, 2017 12:06 pm

Steve sorry for no response until now, just haven't stopped by. Tire rep told me after 6 months on drag tires the "goodie" is gone. For radials they have a very short optimal life. Don't buy used and get 'em fresh as possible is my advice.
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Re: Drag radial turned on rim

Postby steve cowan » Fri Sep 08, 2017 4:19 pm

Thanks monty,
Because the tyres are 2 years old now and are only half worn I am changing out for next year,
I think they are old,but they still impress me because they kinda work ok
2 things I have done over the last month is
New adjustable Koni shocks on the rear, looking at photos I think the car was unloading the rear end because it would hook then break tyres loose off the start line and it shows the body separating and lifting upwards,I thought this what needs to happen in a leaf spring car,but now the rear squats down and seems to dead hook with consistent 1.5s 60 ft times,
The other thing I have done is drive through the water box to burn out as I think water drips down from inside mudguards and photos show tyre getting coated in water as moving through the water box during previous burnouts
I have engine out at the moment for a cam change and a check over for next season

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Re: Drag radial turned on rim

Postby Coloradoracer » Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:21 am

DO NOT use screws on drag radials. If you're having issues with the tires spinning on the rims then you need beadlocks. Screws work on slicks but radials are a different animal.
Mark Goulette
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Speed kills but it's better than going slow!
http://www.livinthedreamracing.com
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Re: Drag radial turned on rim

Postby steve cowan » Fri Sep 15, 2017 3:45 am

Hi mark,
Thanks for your input
I personally have not seen anyone fit screws into a radial,
I know a lot of the quicker cars here that use beadlock rims
I have even seen a couple of streeters like mine with beadlock,I think if I ever fit a transbrake I might do some thing but I can run this car to a 10:00 quarter mile by Australian street car rules
I figure the bead lock rim is fairly heavy but I am only assuming

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Re: Drag radial turned on rim

Postby Coloradoracer » Fri Sep 15, 2017 7:15 am

Steve,
Depending on the rim, beadlocks will be somewhat heavier. On my Top Dragster, I went from Weld Pro Stars to Mickey Thompson beadlocks. I went with the mickeys because they were about 2-3 lbs lighter than the Welds and are one piece forgings...This was before weld introduced the new Delta wheel. Anyway, my old wheels weighed in at about 15 lbs each, where my beadlocks weigh right at 23. However, they made a huge difference in how my car reacts off the line and down track feel. I'll never run a car again without them unless it's a 10 second or slower car. But then again, I have zero intentions of ever slowing down. They aren't cheap, but I believe they are a worthwhile investment, and they are safer than regular wheels. Nice thing too is you can mount your tires yourself without anything other than a ratchet, socket for the bolts, and a torque wrench. Get a quality bubble balancer and some stick on weights and you're golden!

As to if they will affect et, I've seen it go both ways. Some cars will slow slightly due to the extra weight, I've seen a few pick up because they solved tire issues they were having. But for your deal, I'd make the investment. If you plan to go faster in the future, you'll need them eventually. I have a buddy here with a 9 second dragster that just installed them with bigger tires on his car. Went from a 33" tire to a 35". Car only slowed a couple of hundredths in his 60' and et, and lost only about 1-2 mph on the top end. But his car is way more stable and is way more predictable off the line. He's going to step up the hp a bit to recover the lost et and mph. But in his words, they were some of the best money he's spent.
Mark Goulette
Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream rear engine dragster
Speed kills but it's better than going slow!
http://www.livinthedreamracing.com
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Postby dwilliams » Tue Sep 19, 2017 8:30 am

10mm is nothing to worry about.

When we started getting 90 degrees or more we went to a sealant/adhesive product from a local tire supply house. It is, far as I can tell, basically liquid hand soap. When it dries it's quite tacky. We've had tires shift an inch or so after that, but that's all.


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