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Shifting without the clutch on the street

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Shifting without the clutch on the street

Postby BigBore » Mon Mar 27, 2006 11:36 pm

Shifting without the clutch on the street. how bad for the tranny?
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Postby MadBill » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:26 pm

Zero shock load on gears and shafts and no wear on the synchros if you get it exactly right. Lots of both if you don't. I once drove a VW van over 200 miles with a broken clutch fork, but it was no fun trying to time lights and getting evey shift just so...
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Postby ClassicComp » Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:33 pm

tuff on the syncros
results speak for themselves
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Re: Shifting without the clutch on the street

Postby Keith Morganstein » Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:57 pm

BigBore wrote:Shifting without the clutch on the street. how bad for the tranny?

It's just fine in a Peterbuilt with an 18 speed roadranger, but not so wise in your car
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Postby 63longroof » Tue Oct 10, 2006 10:45 am

When I was younger I used to think it was cool to do it when I had my buddies in the car with me, but I can tell you from experience it is definitely harder on parts. Especially when you force it! :twisted:
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Postby melsie68 » Tue Oct 10, 2006 10:58 am

Learn on a company vehicle before you take your pride and joy out experimenting. :lol:

Maybe get a Jerico; Tex Racing or Rankin gear box which have the road race sliders (NASCAR). These have a slight backcut on the lugs which will "keep" the transmission in gear. You will have to let off the gas a little to pull it out of gear unlike the drag race version which have no backcut and may be pulled out under power without damage or problems.
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Postby MileHighMan » Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:20 pm

BigBore. Why don't you want to use a clutch on the street? That's what it's made for. Good luck. Dan.
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Postby Engguy » Fri Aug 31, 2007 12:56 pm

The reason for wanting to shift with out a clutch is the same reason most large trucks are shifted that way. To reduce clutch linkage wear, including throwout bearing and all other moving parts of the clutch system.

I agree not good to shift a syncro transmission that way. you have to have an exact match. All large truck transmissions are "crash boxes" I think that is an old term for "nonsyncronized". The truck transmissions have to be double clutched and that is allot of wear on stuff.
Or of course you can pop to neutral and clutch, its all just an rpm matching deal tough. Or do the same without disengaging the clutch.

If you are trying to shift that way with a syncro trans, then your smashing those syncro's they can't do their job with the clutch engaged. If you don't match just perfect your gona wear them out fast.

If you want to shift that way take all the syncro's out first.
And better yet, get an automatic transmission.
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Postby Procision-Auto » Fri Aug 31, 2007 1:10 pm

I have learned a little bit in auto class about manual transmissions, and
a heck of a lot more from researching my current transmission issue.

My advice along with everyone else: don't do it.

The disengaging of the transmission from the motor allows the input shaft
and output shaft to catch up to each other so the synchro can slide and lock.

Missing that moment in time when the syncrho can slide and lock results
in severe grinding and wear. That grinding you hear is not gears, but rather the
syncrho assembly.

I just bought a used F-body that needs the internals rebuilt because
of improper shifting (and a bad set screw setting on a short stick).

$2000.00 and many hours later, it will be good as new again

Last edited by Procision-Auto on Tue Sep 11, 2007 10:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Makina » Fri Aug 31, 2007 2:32 pm

Does that include the price of the transmission?
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Postby Procision-Auto » Fri Aug 31, 2007 2:47 pm

No, just for the interanal. I guess a syncrho is about $150.00..

I'm doing an entire wipe of the most common failed/wear parts (fork, bearings, etc.). That's where the ~ $2K comes from.
Id hate to dive back in a few years down the road and do this again.
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Postby Ed-vancedEngines » Sat Sep 01, 2007 3:51 am

I am going against the grain and agreeing with Mad Bill.

I used to do this all the time and it never hurt anything in the tranny or the clutch. I did not just do this for 200 miles like Bill mentioned, it was my form of driving. There are reasons though I did not use clutch for anything except stoping or taking off. It was tough to push in it was so strong. Old school very stiff clutch.

Besieds it all I was an experienced truck driver experienced wil all available transmission systems so it was almost natural for me to do. During normal driving you did have to wait a few split seconds for it to be ready to drop into gear when shifting up and when shifting down you had to back slightly off the gas pedlal to get out of gear and blip the throttle in neutral to get engine speed up to match the lower gear syncro speeds.

I have also driven Small Block Race acrs with 4 speeds by bang shifting. At full throttle in 1st you pull the stick hard and barely let off the throttle when it comes out of gear it wil go in the next gear if you are applying enough force. Same with other gears. High gear was the tough one to get. Those trannys were home brew crash boxed with each two teeth cut off.

Not Recommended.

It was more of a novelty than a speed trick. Shifting with clutch was better.

Zero shock load on gears and shafts and no wear on the synchros if you get it exactly right. Lots of both if you don't. I once drove a VW van over 200 miles with a broken clutch fork, but it was no fun trying to time lights and getting evey shift just so...

Mad Bill hit the nail on the head. It must be done with almost perfect timing to syncronise engine speed with syncro speed. Never use force.


Postby mudracer » Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:44 pm

its my personal opinion that every race car driver be forced to drive an old Mack with a 5 over 4 (brownie) and very poor brakes for about a month.

That will either make you confident, or make you understand that you dont want to be a racecar driver.

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Postby Bubstr » Sat Sep 01, 2007 5:26 pm

Ed I remember them hard clutches, at least your left leg was no girlie man leg. What was worse was the ford long clutch that everyone used in flat heads. It had counter weights that pushed you right up in the seat over 3,000 rpm. It is good to know how to do this, if you ever have a clutch that won't disengage, but if you wanted an automatic, you should have bought one.
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Postby ST7317 » Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:46 pm

Funny...this thread. The other day I took the car out for some "testing". Clutch rod popped out of the fork just as I was putting it in gear to leave a light that just turned green. Car was rolling, so I pushed it into first while feathering the throttle, it went in and I drove it back home several miles without the clutch. I got the car to my garage while going through the city trying to plan a route with no stop lights :oops: . Anyway, that's one advantage of having a clutch type Jerico with a very high SLR-just crack the throttle and it falls into gear, no harm done.


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