Installing Fiberglass doors, Any help would be grateful

Shocks, Springs, Brakes, Frame, Body Work, etc

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badss540
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Installing Fiberglass doors, Any help would be grateful

Post by badss540 »

Going to install Glass doors on my 67 Camaro (race car),are there any body guys out there to give me some direction on fitting, drilling,so i dont make a costly mistake. The doors are already painted,do i take out the strikers? i'm using stock mount door hardware,,thanks Lou
Masher Manufacturing
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Post by Masher Manufacturing »

I'm not a body guy but have done similar stuff.

Don't hang the doors until all frame/ roll cage work is complete. The car will move around quite a bit until this is done. Support the car from the axles and not the body during the door install, having the car supported by the frame can sometimes cause it to flex altering the door opening.

First, are the doors drilled for hinges other hardware?

If not, you will need to pull the front fenders to have access to the hinges to drill the door. Remove the striker from the body, that is the last thing you install.

Are the doors thin shells for race only or exact copies of a stock door?

If just thin shells the spring on the door hinge that holds the door open needs to be removed as this detent is likely too strong for the door. The detent might work with a stock copy but be careful closing it the first time.

The trick is to make the door fit the body then make the fenders fit the door. The door will close too far but that isn't a problem. Later you will install weather strip or a rubber bumper to keep the rear of the door flush with the body.

Fiberglass generally needs finish work to make it fit the opening, sometimes the edges need sanded or extended. Painting before test fitting is a bad idea but we can't go back.

Once the door fits the body, install the front fenders and adjust the fenders and / or trim the leading edge of the door.

Install weatherstriping or at least that rubber bumper that is on the inside bottom rear of the door. Last install the latch in the door and the striker pin on the body. The trick here is to leave the striker a bit loose, close the door, pull the door back and forth then tighten the striker while the door is shut.
badss540
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Post by badss540 »

thanks for the help, the cage is done,the body is welded to the frame,these doors were on the car but hung with a cheap ass homemade pin (it was bad) i did take the springs off the hinges.the fenders are off the car ( fiberglass nose i piece) and the doors are not drilled. I know this might sound easy to those that have doen it but this stuff causes me STRESS, i can build the car, motor,frame etc, but put a paint gun or bondo in my hand and i second guess the hell out of myself..
Bubstr
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Post by Bubstr »

Masher gave you good advice. The only thing I can add is, make a plate for the inside of the door to sandwich the door to the hinge. You can use the hinge for a template. I use .125 but even 18 gauge will help to keep from cracking. Also put all the weight in the door when adjusting, glass seems to sag a bit more with the trim, latch and glass ect. You can just put it in the bottom of door to save putting on and off. When you get it adjusted, drill a very small hole in the hinge to pillar and the hinge to door, this with an ice pick will make it a no brainer to get it adjusted after paint.
Older I get the less I know for sure
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Post by Masher Manufacturing »

Bubster filled in what I left out a, a hinge plate. Got a junk steel door? They usually have a drilled and taped plate that is held captive by a small tin strip. This would make a prefect support, however make sure the fiberglass is flat. Glass does not have much give and can stress crack is unevenly tightened.

Oh yea, I hate finish body work too. My results are pretty good and I finally stopped fussing over minute details once I figured out it would take 100 hours for prefection rather than 20 to make it look very good.

Some other hints. Make only one hole at a time.
Dump the door hinge springs.

Fit the door to the car, use tape / cardboard wedges to keep the gaps aligned. Drill only one hole on the top of the top hinge and fasten it with a 1/4 " bolt. If the door still looks in position, drill again on the top of the bottom hinge. Check position again and even open / close a few times to check for dragging. If all looks good drill the other holes.

If not, you can enlarge the 1/4 holes to give your self some adjustment. The factory has large holes for adjustment and you can too.

Besides, as long as the doors are on the thing you will be going too fast for anyone to notice the gap is 1/8" off. :shock:
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