I am going thru my front end and without any springs mounted up. I raise my control arm and the tie rod coupler hits the frame prior to the control arm hiting the frame by about 1/2". What can I do to eliminate this problem?
Thanks
Tie Rod??
Moderator: Team
Ok, I got in a hurry and I thought my tie-rod was hitting the frame but it is hitting my sway bar before the control arm hits the frame on the left front.
Per the Street Stock Manual it says I should set my frame at the min allowed 6". When I do this I am already bottomed out. I have to raise the frame to be 9 3/4" to get the 3" of travel that is talked about in the book. What can I do to get my car lower?
My car is a 1985 Cutlass.
Any help would be great!
Per the Street Stock Manual it says I should set my frame at the min allowed 6". When I do this I am already bottomed out. I have to raise the frame to be 9 3/4" to get the 3" of travel that is talked about in the book. What can I do to get my car lower?
My car is a 1985 Cutlass.
Any help would be great!
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MikeLeone
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Tie rod bind
First, the 3" of travel is measured at the wheel (or at the tip of the spindle), not the space between the frame and lower control arm. When the wheel moves 3" the shock moves a little over 1" and the frame gap changes maybe 1 1/2"
As far as the sway bar rub, remember that in the corner the left side of the sway bar moves up until the bolt pulls tight, from there the lower arm, the tie rod and the sway bar all move up and down together as a unit. Looking at it on in the shop on the ground witout having both side moving together can be deceiving. The way to really know the clearance is to hook the sway bar up (both sides), then jack the right side up and see what the left side has for clearance. You just have to make sure that you have enough space between the sway bar and the lower arm on the right side.
Having said that, you do need to worry about the sway bar rubbing as the car rolls and as you turn the steering wheel. Depending on the camber/caster you run the tie rod travels up and down as you turn the steering wheel. With the car at normal ride height, turn the steering wheel lock to lock and check for rubbing. Then check it again with the right suspension up a few inches and the left side down a few inches. Lastly, check it with the left up a few and the right down a few (this only happens when you’re wrecking, but good to know that the car won’t be working against you trying to save it) Make sure the adjuster bolt ends are not facing north. They can get caught up on the bar as you turn.
As far as the sway bar rub, remember that in the corner the left side of the sway bar moves up until the bolt pulls tight, from there the lower arm, the tie rod and the sway bar all move up and down together as a unit. Looking at it on in the shop on the ground witout having both side moving together can be deceiving. The way to really know the clearance is to hook the sway bar up (both sides), then jack the right side up and see what the left side has for clearance. You just have to make sure that you have enough space between the sway bar and the lower arm on the right side.
Having said that, you do need to worry about the sway bar rubbing as the car rolls and as you turn the steering wheel. Depending on the camber/caster you run the tie rod travels up and down as you turn the steering wheel. With the car at normal ride height, turn the steering wheel lock to lock and check for rubbing. Then check it again with the right suspension up a few inches and the left side down a few inches. Lastly, check it with the left up a few and the right down a few (this only happens when you’re wrecking, but good to know that the car won’t be working against you trying to save it) Make sure the adjuster bolt ends are not facing north. They can get caught up on the bar as you turn.