Old school leaf spring traction devices vs Cal Tracs

[Budnicks]

Hi guys I'm new here but se a product that might help I use them & picked up .005 in 60 ft times with no other changes, there is a part that you may be interested in sold by Mancini Racing they are MOPAR guys it is a Rear Leaf Spring Slider it alows the front mount w/caltracs to move upward & affecting the leverage point , check it out at (also can be used with slapper bars) www.manciniraciniracing.com, it just works what can I say, Budnicks

[wjnielsen]

i look at the calverts ,, i just think a good set of traction bars , with the pinion angle right , with a set of sliders on the rear of the spring ,, would be alot less complicated , be less chance of something breaking , and perform the same function ,,, but i could be terribly wrong ,,,, its what i'm going to try on my next one though ,,,

i had a tubbed car with tractions bars ::: hangs in head in shame ::: ,,, but the car hooked on a track that wasn't known for traction and the ladder bar cars were spinning ,, so i say ,, traction bars can work ,,

Now that had to cheese some people off.

Cool.

-Bill

[Budnicks]

i look at the calverts ,, i just think a good set of traction bars , with the pinion angle right , with a set of sliders on the rear of the spring ,, would be alot less complicated , be less chance of something breaking , and perform the same function ,,, but i could be terribly wrong ,,,, its what i'm going to try on my next one though ,,,

i had a tubbed car with tractions bars ::: hangs in head in shame ::: ,,, but the car hooked on a track that wasn't known for traction and the ladder bar cars were spinning ,, so i say ,, traction bars can work ,,

Now that had to cheese some people off.

Cool.

-Bill

The Caltracs are far supierior to just a slapper bar I've used both the Caltracs are streetable also I used a set for years on a 68 Road Runner I drove on the street & track I had no braking issues at all & 60 ft times were improved over the Super Stock springs alone. They work more like a 4 link than atraction bar or ladder bar especialy with a spring slider on the front perchs. Budnicks

[MODNROD]

I used Cal-Tracs (I think it was them) about 8 years ago(???) on a little super streeter. Ford Capri, 2000lbs race ready on the line, roller 5.0 with a 600Vac changed up at 6.1/4, off-idle launch. We did a few tricks to get it to hook, but had to convince the boss who owned the car it was going to work.

Standard leaf spring pack of 4 with Cal-Tracs, best 60ft of 1.66, ET 11.85-ish @ 114-ish. The bosses plan, works fine.
Removed the smallest lowest spring, more preload, raised rear by 1", 60ft 1.62, ET 11.77-ish @ about 115. After listening to others at the track.

Then we did it my way (which is not necessarily the best by a long shot, but has always worked for me in the past). I've used it on Fords especially with good success, Chryslers don't need it so much due to the ratio of front-to-back leaf pack lengths. I don't race Holdens......they blow up! (I really hate Salisbury diffs.......).
Std 3 top leaves, moved up to front eye, clamped in 3 places along the front of the leaf pack, the 2nd leaf clamped on the rear of the pack with a 1/2" airgap, bottom leaf cut at spring perch, front bushes changed for brass/rubber with 1/4 the rubber thickness, leaf-link added to right side only on top of the diff tube(follows the angle of the leaf pack, but going downwards, angle reversed but the same), bolted to chassis rail.

Best 60ft of 1.52, ET 11.63 @ about 115.
This was done on 23.5x8x13" slicks with 10lbs. Launched straight, only 4" nose lift, 2" rear lift.

[Budnicks]

Yeh CalTracs work great for what they are I've used on several cars from a 9.77et 135mph 3300lb 1.38sec 60ft. street driven Road Runner to a Blown BB 8.00et 180mph 1.14sec 60ft. Charger with thier mono leaf set up that was a track car only they worked equaly well on both. They are simple & inexpensive. A great alternitive for some one not wanting to do a full tubed 4 link/ladder bar combo & they worked almost as good as my 4 link equiped race car that was 10 times the money to set up. Budnicks

[brket racer]

Here is some general set up information.To add to this I preload my own car at 1/2 turn on both sides with driver in car and set the rear calvert shocks at full loose.
Information on how to set up your CalTracs suspension.


I thought I would make a POST FOR setup and issues that almost everyone has with Caltracs.
Also a place to start from for the first run/test pass along with how to adjust after you have a few passes. Start at the front and make sure the front control arms are not binding. This is one of the biggest issues. You can do this with after market bushings or control arms or just elbow grease. The control arms should fall on their own without having to push them down. The front springs need to be of a drag style that will give you the best weight transfer you can and MUST HAVE AT LEAST 5" OF UPWARD TRAVEL IN THE FRONT END. Shocks should be of a good drag style. I use the CalTracs shocks and there are great adjustable shocks for big wheelstanding cars. After doing all the above, SET THE SHOCKS AT FULL LOOSE FOR THE FIRST FEW RUNS. FOR THE REAR, same thing binding is the number 1 issue most the time it's in the shackels and the front leaf spring mounting bolt. Every car I see the bolts are over tightened. You should be able to push the rear down 5-6" easy without the shock or Caltrac mounted. Lube all bushings well and don't over tighen. Make sure theres no binding, any adjustment later will work. I always start in the upper hole and preload 1/4-1/2 depending on the appliciation. Shock settings ON REAR, I always start at full tight on extension. Know that the car is setup for a test pass; have someone video it.

The car will DO only a few THINGS now. IT WILL HOOK AND PULL A HUGE WHEELIE; IT WILL HOOK AND DO WANT YOUR NEED; IT WILL HOOK AND pull left or right; IT WILL HOOK AND SPIN 20FT OUT; IT WILL KILL THE REAR TIRE BY HITTING IT WAY TOO HARD IF YOU HAVE DONE EVERYTHING UP TOP; I'M 95% SURE IT WILL ONLY DO ONE OF THESE THINGS.

IF IT HOOKS AND PULLS A HUGE WHEELIE THEN TIGHTEN THE FRONT SHOCKS. THIS SHOULD BE THE ONLY REASON TO TIGHTEN THE FRONT SHOCK. IF IT HOOKS AND PULLS TO THE RIGHT OR LEFT THEN PUT A LITTLE PRELOAD ON THE SIDE IT PULLS TO. IF IT HOOKS AND SPINS 20FT OUT START, LOOSEN THE EXTENSION ON THE REAR SHOCKS 1-2 CLICKS AT A TIME TILL IT HOOKS AND STAYS ON THE REAR TIRE. IF IT KILLS THE REAR TIRE, YOU NEED TO PUT THE BARS IN THE LOWER HOLE AND ADJUST THE SAME AS YOU WOULD IN THE UPPER HOLE. IF YOU HAVE LOWERED THE CAR A LOT, THERE ARE OTHER TRICKS TO DO BUT FOR THE MAJORITY OF THE CalTracs cars OUT THERE, this will be ALL YOU NEED.

[Budnicks]

Here is some general set up information.To add to this I preload my own car at 1/2 turn on both sides with driver in car and set the rear calvert shocks at full loose.
Information on how to set up your CalTracs suspension.


I thought I would make a POST FOR setup and issues that almost everyone has with Caltracs.
Also a place to start from for the first run/test pass along with how to adjust after you have a few passes. Start at the front and make sure the front control arms are not binding. This is one of the biggest issues. You can do this with after market bushings or control arms or just elbow grease. The control arms should fall on their own without having to push them down. The front springs need to be of a drag style that will give you the best weight transfer you can and MUST HAVE AT LEAST 5" OF UPWARD TRAVEL IN THE FRONT END. Shocks should be of a good drag style. I use the CalTracs shocks and there are great adjustable shocks for big wheelstanding cars. After doing all the above, SET THE SHOCKS AT FULL LOOSE FOR THE FIRST FEW RUNS. FOR THE REAR, same thing binding is the number 1 issue most the time it's in the shackels and the front leaf spring mounting bolt. Every car I see the bolts are over tightened. You should be able to push the rear down 5-6" easy without the shock or Caltrac mounted. Lube all bushings well and don't over tighen. Make sure theres no binding, any adjustment later will work. I always start in the upper hole and preload 1/4-1/2 depending on the appliciation. Shock settings ON REAR, I always start at full tight on extension. Know that the car is setup for a test pass; have someone video it.

The car will DO only a few THINGS now. IT WILL HOOK AND PULL A HUGE WHEELIE; IT WILL HOOK AND DO WANT YOUR NEED; IT WILL HOOK AND pull left or right; IT WILL HOOK AND SPIN 20FT OUT; IT WILL KILL THE REAR TIRE BY HITTING IT WAY TOO HARD IF YOU HAVE DONE EVERYTHING UP TOP; I'M 95% SURE IT WILL ONLY DO ONE OF THESE THINGS.

IF IT HOOKS AND PULLS A HUGE WHEELIE THEN TIGHTEN THE FRONT SHOCKS. THIS SHOULD BE THE ONLY REASON TO TIGHTEN THE FRONT SHOCK. IF IT HOOKS AND PULLS TO THE RIGHT OR LEFT THEN PUT A LITTLE PRELOAD ON THE SIDE IT PULLS TO. IF IT HOOKS AND SPINS 20FT OUT START, LOOSEN THE EXTENSION ON THE REAR SHOCKS 1-2 CLICKS AT A TIME TILL IT HOOKS AND STAYS ON THE REAR TIRE. IF IT KILLS THE REAR TIRE, YOU NEED TO PUT THE BARS IN THE LOWER HOLE AND ADJUST THE SAME AS YOU WOULD IN THE UPPER HOLE. IF YOU HAVE LOWERED THE CAR A LOT, THERE ARE OTHER TRICKS TO DO BUT FOR THE MAJORITY OF THE CalTracs cars OUT THERE, this will be ALL YOU NEED.

Great post lots of information it looks like you read the instructions & have used them in the past. Budnicks

[pdq67]

"I'd watch those original mono leafs and running those type 60's and speeds.....one breaks and ouch......."

This is why my "slappers" are long enough to slap under the middle of the bottom of the front spring eye!

I made mine to be tuned with 1/2" bolts so the slap is metal against metal.... BUT 100 PERCENT SOLID and noisy as a "Rock Band".........

As for Cal-Trac's, I think onna the guys on onna the car sites offers free plans to make your own set so if you are cheap, please hunt him up.

pdq67

PS., personally, the more I look at this, the more I like the HTH's "Truck-Arm" suspension except for exhaust and muffler placement issues..