Block wash procedure

Gary 540 · Post by **Gary 540** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 9:44 pm

Hi all.

I am currently experimenting with a couple of engines that I am building in block washing prior to mock up, or final assembly.

Not sure that I am on to the best way yet ?

1 : Currently solvent wash first, then hot soapy water scrub, dishwashing liquid or cloths washing powder, then cold pressure water wash, followed by filing solvent gun with WD40 and spraying WD40 directly over water on block.

This results in nice clean shiny bores, and main tunnels, but a very wet oily block to work with.

2 :The other way I have been solvent washing, hot soapy water scrub, cold pressure water wash, then air drying, this gives me a nice dry surface to work with but discolored bores and main tunnels.

It results in instant rusting as soon as air dries the bores.

I then use transmission fluid on a rag to clean rust color off bores.

Anyone have a better wash down procedure ? or see something That is not quite right with what I am doing ??
Which is better procedure 1 ? or 2 ?

Thanks
Gary.........

Walline · Post by **Walline** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 10:14 pm

After all mock ups and before final assy. I wash the complete assy. with soapy water. Then I spray the surfaces I do not want to rust. i.e cylinders and mains with WD40 or like product. Then air dry it with shop air. That seems to keep the rust away. Then I swab cylinders, mains and deck with FORD metal cleaner prep. Very Good stuff. After doing the soap wash It is amazing what the Ford cleaner will continue to pull out of the metal. I use white rags with the Ford Stuff. I can get you the part number if interested. It is pricey though

Gary 540 · Post by **Gary 540** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 10:26 pm

Thanks Walline, yes please give me the part number as I will try anything to get block clean without rust or oily working surface's.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 10:09 am

I to would like to know what poeple are doing for finial cleaning and not geting rust in the bores or even on the engine it self.I use a soap from zep wright now but i,am stuck with rinsing with cold water.I has a rust inhibitor in it to slow rusting.

mike

Todd H · Post by **Todd H** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 11:17 am

Gary, we used to use what was called "flash guard". I'm not sure who made it. Basically when the block came out of the washer you could spray it with the flash guard and not have to worry about rusting. When the block cooled from the washer it was not oily and no rusting problems. Todd

learner · Post by **learner** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 3:00 pm

What i do is wash the cylinders and mainline first with water, blow them dry and soak with WD-40. Then finish washing the rest of the block. The WD-40 will prevent any rust from forming until cleaning is done and the machined surfaces are recoated with WD.

Gary 540 · Post by **Gary 540** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 4:45 pm

Thanks to all who replied, I am basically on the right track, maybe just need to try a couple of things, Ford metal prep, and flash guard, already use a lot of WD40 .
Nothing worse than watching nice silver surfaces, end up with a brown stain.
Cant be a good thing to have under the bearing shells ?
It might not be such a problem in the bores ? but it sure doesn't look any good.
I have a mate who only uses kerosene to wash block after machining, but even though he has nice silver machined surfaces, he probably also doesn't have a clean block either.
I think I will stick to hot soapy scrub using water, rather than his way.
Does anyone else use auto trans fluid, on bores and mains after air dry to remove rust stain ?

Gary...............

DCarr511 · Post by **DCarr511** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 5:08 pm

I wash the block 4-5 times in a row with hot soapy water using bristle brushes before assembly, then air dry and coat cylinders, mains, cam mains and oil galleys w/ WD40. Before assembly I wipe down those areas best I can with laquer thinner and then use trans fluid on the cylinder walls quit a few times.

Its amazing how much dirt the trans fluid pulls off the walls.

bsfc9 · Post by **bsfc9** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 6:54 pm

hot soapy water(tide works great)and a brush, followed by hot(real hot)water rinse and the blow off with compressed air. the hot water rinse allows the left over moisture to evap. very quickly, and I have seen minimal rusting. After rinse and dry coat all machined metal surfaces with WD40. Before assembly some laquer thinner swabbed in the bores followed by a swab of clean motor oil. This has always worked great for me.

Post by **maxracesoftware** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 6:57 pm

I wash the block 4-5 times in a row with hot soapy water using bristle brushes before assembly, then air dry and coat cylinders, mains, cam mains and oil galleys w/ WD40. Before assembly I wipe down those areas best I can with laquer thinner

Basically doing the same thing .

i use plenty of liquid Tide with hot water with Block partially submerged in large tub..then after all the scrubbing and cleaning
just BlowDry ...NEVER rinse off with straight water.

then use Brawny named Brand white paper towels with lightweight engine oil and wipe Bores floating debris out of Hone marks till white paper towel stays basically white.

the Brawny brand of paper towels seem to have a lot less Lint residue than Bounty or Scott Blue Shop Towels

then i use Dupont 3608-S Laquer Thinner to clean rest of Block and BlowDry if you want to Paint Block.

another way is to go directly from Tide hot soap and BlowDry ....
to another tub with Varsol (Mineral Spirits) and continue to clean the block
off ...then BlowDry, and clean Bores and Laquer Thinner the rest off.

i usually Flow Varsol thru all passages somewhat by pressure and check Flow while its in the Tub...once found a brand new Dart Big M Block had not been completely drilled all the way thru on the #3 main

also use a variety of Nylon bristtle brushes of various lengths to brush all passages clean while in Tide and Varsol baths, then use small Light check passages.

Gary 540 · Post by **Gary 540** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 7:37 pm

Thanks Maxrace, That is something I have never tried, hot soap wash and air dry without water rinse.
I will try it though.
Thanks for all replies
Gary.

Post by **maxracesoftware** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 9:50 pm

should be Dupont 3608-S Laquer Thinner
instead of (Dupont 360-S Laquer Thinner as previously Posted)
i corrected my Post

John Haskell · Post by **John Haskell** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 4:07 pm

Here, we use an ultrasonic cleaner with adjustable control. It is used for final cleaning & with this filtering system you do not need to rinse. You turn the block or heads to drop off anything not lifted into reciever area of the solution but, the water stays clean and no need to rinse, so you have an anti rust as part of the solution. This unit circulates constantly and has adjustable temperatures. The parts that go in are clean so, understand there is no issue in trash. Any coated parts such as anadized(?) pans or copper on roller cams is long gone from the sound waves impinging so, don't leave them in long or just don't do these unless you choose. There is more to this than what I say here but it was the best investment for me.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 4:15 am

Have you guys done any research on WD-40...I personally wouldn't spray shiney new engine parts with that stuff. I think its great for stickey rusted bolts but thats about it.
The ultra sonic that John spoke of is the last word in my opinion....I have used his. Dale

Gary 540 · Post by **Gary 540** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 4:25 am

Thanks John, and Dale,
I have priced an ultra sonic cleaner and they are close on $25 K
I am sorry but that is out of the question for me.
I have to come up with something that will work using just the basics.
One thing I thought of but have not yet tried would be after hot soapy water scrub : rinse with fast drying solvent ??

thanks
Gary.