Gary, the Reher-Morrison assembly manual states that after washing the block with soapy water, then blast all passages with high pressuer, then blow dry, then apply oil immediately to discourage rust formation. I've used WD-40 in the past with no problems. Total Seal rings also recomends WD-40. Hope this helps.
Lugnut
Block wash procedure
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Early on in my tool and die career(many years ago) I used to take care of my precision tools by keeping them oiled with WD-40. One incident in particular cured me of that. I had just bought a new Herman Schmidt grinding vise, I think at the time I gave near 500.00 for it and it was my prized possestion. As soon as I started my routine of wiping it down with WD-40 I noticed some corrosion starting to show up. It wasn't rust is was some small pitting and it started to grow but at the time I had know idea what was causing it. Then one day I had to use the vice in the EDM tank and I had to put it away wet (in a hurry) It didn't take long before I noticed the corrosion or pitting had stopped. To make a long story short I stopped using WD and I never had another problem. It wasn't until many years later that I got some second hand but fairly reliable information that WD-40 has a corrosive in it. Its still used in the shop to this day but not as a preservative, more like a cleaner.
There are better light oils to use on your finish machined surfaces thats my opinion and sorry this is so long.
Dale
There are better light oils to use on your finish machined surfaces thats my opinion and sorry this is so long.
Dale
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bill jones
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-two things I do is:
-1-I make 3/16" diameter by 9" long extensions out of my air nozzles so that I can get down inside the water jackets good and sort of probe loose any sediment, and these also work real good at blowing out all the bolt holes if you grind away two flats along the outside of the 3/16" tube for about 2 inches.
-The tip of this 3/16" tube needs two notches at the end so that air can escape if you touch the bottom of the holes.
-2-is I have seen where if you happen to leave the block upside down and covered with a plastic bag, that residue from the water jackets can conaminate the bag if intend to reuse that same bag, so I don't ever like to leave the block upside down inside the bag.
-1-I make 3/16" diameter by 9" long extensions out of my air nozzles so that I can get down inside the water jackets good and sort of probe loose any sediment, and these also work real good at blowing out all the bolt holes if you grind away two flats along the outside of the 3/16" tube for about 2 inches.
-The tip of this 3/16" tube needs two notches at the end so that air can escape if you touch the bottom of the holes.
-2-is I have seen where if you happen to leave the block upside down and covered with a plastic bag, that residue from the water jackets can conaminate the bag if intend to reuse that same bag, so I don't ever like to leave the block upside down inside the bag.
Deoxidine
Hi Everyone
Deoxidine is a product used by panel beaters/ spray painters when preparing metal for painting
It is the greatest and best for the final clean of your block bores
Mix it up with a little water
Grab a white cloth and soak with he mixture then wipe the bores clean
Isnta rust free and immaculately clean dores ready for assembly
Cost $20 Aust for a 500 ml bottle and lasts yrs.
Trev
Deoxidine is a product used by panel beaters/ spray painters when preparing metal for painting
It is the greatest and best for the final clean of your block bores
Mix it up with a little water
Grab a white cloth and soak with he mixture then wipe the bores clean
Isnta rust free and immaculately clean dores ready for assembly
Cost $20 Aust for a 500 ml bottle and lasts yrs.
Trev
Deoxidine
Gary
Your nearly correct
You wipe it with a damp cloth
But when your doing the engines its easy
you deoxidine
You wipe clean
then oil and assemble
You all may laugh but i dont worry about that discolouration rust after washing cause the deoxidine brings it up clean
Your nearly correct
You wipe it with a damp cloth
But when your doing the engines its easy
you deoxidine
You wipe clean
then oil and assemble
You all may laugh but i dont worry about that discolouration rust after washing cause the deoxidine brings it up clean
Block cleaning without rusting
To prevent rusting on a cast iron block after water based cleaning you must leave some kind of chemicals on the block after drying to prevent Flash rusting. The block doesn’t rust when the oil and grease are on it because they protect the raw iron from coming in contact with air. Air iron and water equals rust. It is best to use HOT water based cleaning so that the part will quickly flash dry and minimize the time available for rusting. If you can use150 degree F or higher cleaning temperature flashing drying will occur in minutes. Just turn the block so that any puddles spill on to the adjacent hot surfaces.
There are many water based alkaline chemistries that can stay on the block after cleaning, provide rust protection and not interfere with the rebuilding process. Using a hot wash based alkaline based detergent and not rinsing the part is one option. If you feel you must rinse then it is mandatory to include a rust inhibitor in the rinse water. See the following site for a Rust Inhibitor chemical and cleaning chemicals that provide what you need.
http://www.marttechservices.com/shell.a ... ls_1#spec3
There are many water based alkaline chemistries that can stay on the block after cleaning, provide rust protection and not interfere with the rebuilding process. Using a hot wash based alkaline based detergent and not rinsing the part is one option. If you feel you must rinse then it is mandatory to include a rust inhibitor in the rinse water. See the following site for a Rust Inhibitor chemical and cleaning chemicals that provide what you need.
http://www.marttechservices.com/shell.a ... ls_1#spec3
Marc Treppler
If you want to avoid "flash rust"...
You need a real steam cleaner. Not only a hot water washer.
The freshly machined surfaces will still need to be treated to avoid discoloration. But you will not need to get the block greasy to the degree it practically need cleaning again.
Hot water is not good enough, you need actual steam to get the block hot enough to evaporate the water.
Hot water helps alot.
Steam takes all the work out of it.
You need a real steam cleaner. Not only a hot water washer.
The freshly machined surfaces will still need to be treated to avoid discoloration. But you will not need to get the block greasy to the degree it practically need cleaning again.
Hot water is not good enough, you need actual steam to get the block hot enough to evaporate the water.
Hot water helps alot.
Steam takes all the work out of it.