"Solution" (glue) for silicone boots on ignition cables

[Caprimaniac]

My friend is experiencing trouble while disconnecting his custom ignition wires.

When you grip the boots to pull the ignion wires off, the cable ends are so tight fitting on the spark plugs that you csnnot get them loose and end up pushing the boots up the silicone cables.

This is a set of Accel cables on a Volvo With LS coils. I have seen it on other ignition cables too.

Is there a glue or something that will keep the boots stationary on the cables?


I prefer the Taylor cables I have used, where the distributor- end of the cables are to be cut to length, and the boots are ready to og onto the plugs, more or less "welded" to the cables.

[Walter R. Malik]

My friend is experiencing trouble while disconnecting his custom ignition wires.

When you grip the boots to pull the ignion wires off, the cable ends are so tight fitting on the spark plugs that you csnnot get them loose and end up pushing the boots up the silicone cables.

This is a set of Accel cables on a Volvo With LS coils. I have seen it on other ignition cables too.

Is there a glue or something that will keep the boots stationary on the cables?


I prefer the Taylor cables I have used, where the distributor- end of the cables are to be cut to length, and the boots are ready to og onto the plugs, more or less "welded" to the cables.

I use a long pair of pliers which have a hook on the end . They clamp on the boot above the end, tight enough that it won't move on the wire.

[Kevin Johnson]

Bunch of products now available for bonding.

https://www.google.com/search?q=adhesiv ... e&ie=UTF-8

[makin chips]

My friend is experiencing trouble while disconnecting his custom ignition wires.

When you grip the boots to pull the ignion wires off, the cable ends are so tight fitting on the spark plugs that you csnnot get them loose and end up pushing the boots up the silicone cables.

This is a set of Accel cables on a Volvo With LS coils. I have seen it on other ignition cables too.

Is there a glue or something that will keep the boots stationary on the cables?


I prefer the Taylor cables I have used, where the distributor- end of the cables are to be cut to length, and the boots are ready to og onto the plugs, more or less "welded" to the cables.

By custom, do you mean simply that they were cut to fit via size? As in they took the roll of cable, laid out length and put the ends on? If so, I'd expect those to come loose before the standard, normal wires that are bonded together at the factory during manufacturing where those are usually hand crimped and, imo, aren't as resilient nor do they last as long as standard plug wires. YMMV.

Or tell him to use a quality manufacturer like Firecore50. Don't know that I've heard many complaints about their boots pulling loose. In fact, you hear the opposite, that people use them over and over and over and they never even get loose on the plug, much less come apart so the boot slides up the wire.

[Caprimaniac]

Correct, the boots are not bonded to the cables. Cut to length. yes.

Taylor kits I have, as said, have bonded (at least appearing) boots and cut to length dist terminals.


I have heard of the pliers- trick. You havt to carry then With you, that's the downside.

looking more in to Chemicals to "Cure"... the problem.

[digger]

I threw my accel wires in the trash they were so tight you could not get them off without things that weren't supposed to seperate seperating. I bought a set of firecore and haven't had any issues after several years

[Scottperformancewire]

Good day gentlemen. Spark plug boot/terminals can be a catch 22. We need them to install with confidence so we feel the "snap" of the terminal on the spark plug, and we need the boot to seal, but we also need them to be removed for inspection (plug checks or plug replacements). Throughout my years of performing track support and training the proper handling of the plug boot/terminal has always been an issue.
> After inspection use a 100% silicone spray (not WD40) and spray the inside of the boot. This will allow easy installation of the boot and also allow that "feel" of the terminal snap on the spark plug.
> When removing the wire "grab the boot" squeeze and rotate pulling straight out from the plug. This will break the seal of the boot and allow easy removal (all in one piece).

Any questions please give us a call at the company and we will be happy to assist in anyway we can. Mark

[fordified]

Good day gentlemen. Spark plug boot/terminals can be a catch 22. We need them to install with confidence so we feel the "snap" of the terminal on the spark plug, and we need the boot to seal, but we also need them to be removed for inspection (plug checks or plug replacements). Throughout my years of performing track support and training the proper handling of the plug boot/terminal has always been an issue.
> After inspection use a 100% silicone spray (not WD40) and spray the inside of the boot. This will allow easy installation of the boot and also allow that "feel" of the terminal snap on the spark plug.
> When removing the wire "grab the boot" squeeze and rotate pulling straight out from the plug. This will break the seal of the boot and allow easy removal (all in one piece).

Any questions please give us a call at the company and we will be happy to assist in anyway we can. Mark

I can't see how there are problems with your wires unless things have changed.

I got a set of your wires about 20 years ago from RDI. They were the best fitting wires and boots I've ever had. I still have them on my street car and they work perfect. I used your competitors wires because I got them for free but not anymore.

The new engine I'm putting together will have your wires on them.

[ProPower engines]

When ever I do a set of wires I always get the dist. end cut to fit. Not the other way around!!
The other end can be secured by using clear silicone like a lube when installing the boot. They never move
after the silicone cures but if the plug end tears the bond the same deal applies. Just use a bit of clear silicone
as a lube to push the boot over the wire end and it will stay put.

The latest thing is the ceramic plug boots for durability from heat. I have been using them regularly for several years and they seem to be indestructible .....................to point where some one yanks the wire only.