D0OE intake ports

[PRH]

The initial post is too abstract for me.

In the long run, I think it would be a better use of time to figure out how to get something like this to work well:
Pretty hard to argue with the price.......
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Ba ... 2712349163

I see these heads refer to a Pro Comp interchange part number. Is this the new brand name for Pro Comp?

I have no idea about those heads........ I just googled Sb ford aluminum heads..... to get an idea of how cheap they would be..... to get a better handle on how much time might be worthwhile to spend on old iron stuff.
At under $200/ea for new aluminum...... the answer seems like it would be “not much”.

For the use the OP has outlined for his reworked OE iron....... I would think something like a 5-10min bowl blend and short turn tweak is all they’d need.

[Carnut1]

I guess you guys never heard of core shift.

I don't think it is core shift. Looks like double guides with one drilled on offset. A quick measurement of valve centerline would answer it. Exhausts have only one guide and it is centered.

[blackford]

I ported a set of DOOEs some 15 years ago and used them on a 331 stroker street motor. I am not a professional porter so there may be some things I did that may be frowned upon, but it is not a radical build by any means and it layed down 360 RWHP through a T5z and 9" rear and I as very pleased. It makes peak power at 6500 and usable power to over 7000. Intake volume is 160cc and exhaust volume is 60cc. In retrospect,

I think I was very lucky not to grind into a water jacket given the amount of material removed. I included some pics.

I raised the intake and exhaust roofs about 3/16. I made the Intake match a 1262 Felpro gasket and the exhausts match some copper seal gasket whose dimensions were something like 1.25 x 1.50. I opened up the throat a lot and removed the thermactor hump completely. I ground down the valve guide area quite a bit and smoothed the transition. I also opened up the pinch and runner area. The heads have 1.94 and 1.6 valves. I also unshrouded the valves a bit and chamber matched the chambers to the bore to get rid of the chamber lip that overhung the bore. I port matched my intake manifold and the header opening to match the heads. Took me a little while to find a 1 5/8 header that could be opened up enough to port match to the exhaust ports without cutting the header opening too deep.

[PRH]

I guess you guys never heard of core shift.

I don't think it is core shift. Looks like double guides with one drilled on offset. A quick measurement of valve centerline would answer it. Exhausts have only one guide and it is centered.

It just looks like the remnants of the factory spot face to me....... but if you think someone went to the trouble of using two guides to move the valve over a bit......... in those heads....... I’m not going to waste any time arguing about it.

[travis]

I ported a set of DOOEs some 15 years ago and used them on a 331 stroker street motor. I am not a professional porter so there may be some things I did that may be frowned upon, but it is not a radical build by any means and it layed down 360 RWHP through a T5z and 9" rear and I as very pleased. It makes peak power at 6500 and usable power to over 7000. Intake volume is 160cc and exhaust volume is 60cc. In retrospect,

I think I was very lucky not to grind into a water jacket given the amount of material removed. I included some pics.

I raised the intake and exhaust roofs about 3/16. I made the Intake match a 1262 Felpro gasket and the exhausts match some copper seal gasket whose dimensions were something like 1.25 x 1.50. I opened up the throat a lot and removed the thermactor hump completely. I ground down the valve guide area quite a bit and smoothed the transition. I also opened up the pinch and runner area. The heads have 1.94 and 1.6 valves. I also unshrouded the valves a bit and chamber matched the chambers to the bore to get rid of the chamber lip that overhung the bore. I port matched my intake manifold and the header opening to match the heads. Took me a little while to find a 1 5/8 header that could be opened up enough to port match to the exhaust ports without cutting the header opening too deep.

Thanks for the info. Do you by chance have any pics or the ports or bowls?

[travis]

A few slightly different views of what I have done on 1 cylinder so far, to test. The exhaust port isn't done yet...still got a lot of guide boss to hack out of that thing behind the guide. I swear I've cut 5 pounds out of there already.

I cleaned up a bunch of the butchery that was in the bowl before, although there is more there that could be done. Should I get more aggressive on the short turn? There is a steep bottom cut there, just hard to tell from the pics.

Hoping to get these flow tested this weekend...hopefully I haven't made it worse.

[PRH]

Based on the comments I keep seeing about how easy it is to hit water at the intake short
turn, I don’t see how you’ll be able to have the high(er) lift flow not back up(or if things go well, just stall) while not putting a hole in the head.

I’d expect to have to lay that short turn waaaaayy back to get the high(er) lift flow to keep gaining, and it doesn’t sound like there’s enough material there to make that happen.

But...... I’ve never done on of those particular heads....... and that’s what the flow bench is for.

[Carnut1]

Resized_20170704_100630.jpeg

This is a 289 cutaway but I doubt the castings water jacket is far off. High lift flow improved laying back the ssr but without a sonic this is risky.

[blackford]

I ported a set of DOOEs some 15 years ago and used them on a 331 stroker street motor. I am not a professional porter so there may be some things I did that may be frowned upon, but it is not a radical build by any means and it layed down 360 RWHP through a T5z and 9" rear and I as very pleased. It makes peak power at 6500 and usable power to over 7000. Intake volume is 160cc and exhaust volume is 60cc. In retrospect,

I think I was very lucky not to grind into a water jacket given the amount of material removed. I included some pics.

I raised the intake and exhaust roofs about 3/16. I made the Intake match a 1262 Felpro gasket and the exhausts match some copper seal gasket whose dimensions were something like 1.25 x 1.50. I opened up the throat a lot and removed the thermactor hump completely. I ground down the valve guide area quite a bit and smoothed the transition. I also opened up the pinch and runner area. The heads have 1.94 and 1.6 valves. I also unshrouded the valves a bit and chamber matched the chambers to the bore to get rid of the chamber lip that overhung the bore. I port matched my intake manifold and the header opening to match the heads. Took me a little while to find a 1 5/8 header that could be opened up enough to port match to the exhaust ports without cutting the header opening too deep.

Thanks for the info. Do you by chance have any pics or the ports or bowls?

Here are some more pics as requested. Remember everyone, I am not a pro porter so there were some things I did that may be frowned upon, but the results were very positive. The heads had new guides put into them so they protruded into the port a bit when all was said and done.

[PRH]

What is the vintage of these heads, and how hard are they to come by?

[blackford]

What is the vintage of these heads, and how hard are they to come by?

1970 Ford 351w heads. The 69 heads were essentially the same. They are not that hard to find.

[travis]

I went over to Gary C’s place this weekend and flowed the heads on his bench.

As purchased, with that rough bowl hog job and 1.94/1.50 Chevy valves. Exhaust ports appeared stock.

Intake
.050. 32
.100. 80
.150 114
.200 142
.250 164
.300 176
.400 190
.500 193
.600 195
.700 198

With a mild bowl blend (still has some of the previous rough bowl hacking still there), laying back the short turn a bit, blending the sharp lip on the short turn, and opening the PR pinch from .960x1.92” to 1.010x1.92”. Dropped low lift flow but gained from .300-.500, but then fell back off a bit.

Intake
.050 28
.100 70
.150 102
.200 131
.250 158
.300 180
.400 203
.500 207
.600 195
.700 195

Spent a couple minutes on the fastest part of the port...the cylinder wall side of the port floor going over the short turn. Lost even more low lift flow, only gaining a tiny bit above.500...and the air speed going over the short turn got worse???

Intake
.050 47
.100 64
.150 96
.200 126
.250 151
.300 173
.400 198
.500 207
.600 207
.700 207

At this point, the port is peaking at .500” lift. Air speed is highest at the port floor just going over the short turn. It appears that the little bit I took off the PR pinch wasn’t necessary...I think I need to open it up a bit in the port right before the short turn, and maybe clean up the bowl a bit better although that doesn’t seem to be affecting anything at this point.

[travis]

On the exhaust side, as purchased. Appeared to be as cast from the factory and had a hair smaller than stock valve 1.50” vs stock 1.54”.

Exhaust
.100 45
.200 88
.300 106
.400 111
.500 112
.600 112
.700 112

Cleaned up the short turn, removed the sharp lip on the short turn, light bowl blend, and took out about 60% of the guide boss lump and blended it in. Wasn’t finished but it did better than I thought it would.

Exhaust
.100 47
.200 90
.300 117
.400 139
.500 145
.600 149
.700 150
.800 150
.900 150
1.00 150

[GARY C]

I am thinking a 2" valve and a valve job would help address some of the bowl hogness. Then maybe spend a day out here grinding and flowing little bits at a time.

[travis]

I was kind of bummed at the loss of lower lift flow on the intake side, but doing some reading it seems that maybe that isn’t such a bad thing, especially if using a cam with a little bit of overlap? The exhaust side gained nicely for as little work as I did. I’m wondering if taking out the rest of that lump behind the guide would help? The ports was nice and quiet at all points before and after porting. Information I have found for the stock D0OE heads shows peaks of around 183/106 for the intake and exhaust respectively, and I’m even slightly better than the GT40P and iron GT40 heads. Other info I have found says that these heads, as they are now, will easily support 360-380hp without having to go crazy on the cam timing and compression.

Thoughts?