HEI power supply.

[Tuner]

The module limits the steady state amperage after the coil inductance is saturated. The coil resistance is .4 (four tenths) Ohm. Ohm's law tell us Amperage is Voltage divided by resistance, so 12V/.4 = 30 Amps inrush current when the transistor closes to ground the coil. 14V/.4 = 35A This high amperage surge is why the GM wiring is 10 or 12 gauge.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current

[Tuner]

double opst

[Schurkey]

Woof. I knew that the HEI drew pulses of current, but I didn't realize they were that great.

[Tuner]

The inductor has "back EMF" opposing and reducing the inrush current some, but alas, I know not how to calculate. Bucket list includes oscilloscope games to ponder this, perhaps the next HEI setup in the distributor machine I will get the scope out and hack around with it.

[Geoff2]

The stock HEI current is around 5.5 amp. I have measured it with a scope. NOT 30 amps. I have retro fitted dozens of HEIs & used 10 amp fuses, have yet to blow one. The module has internal current limiting. There is no inrush current with a coil, exact opposite; current starts at zero & ramps up. My understanding of using the low pri resistance with HEI coils is to reduce coil heating & subsequent loss in the secondary winding.
More on HEI & the current limiting cct:

www.worldphaco.net

[mag2555]

While on the discussion of 12 source's and if you will power supply's , noise hash and voltage spikes out of the Alt is a big reason for electronic ignition module parts failure that it seems no one talks about !

[Truckedup]

GM did use a 10 gauge wire on many original HEI applications...GM is not known to overbuild on wiring....I have heard from a GM powertrain engineer that it's for a reduction in harmonics...I also heard the original HEI modules had poor dwell control so the amps at low RPM were high....However..I have used 12 and 14 gauge wire with apparently no problems..I don't fuse ignitions for over current protection but use a higher amp fuse/breaker for short circuit protection of the wiring..I don't believe GM fused ignition systems before the use of ECM's ?

[novadude]

On my '65 Nova, I used removed the resistor wire from the firewall plug and replaced with another wire that I used to switch on a relay. The relay pulls the power for the ignition (10g wire to "BATT" terminal) from the horn relay bus. Works fine.

Relays like the 30~40 Amp Bosch cubes draw so little Amperage It isn't necessary to eliminate or replace the resistor wire If the resistor wire is only used to switch a relay.

I only eliminated the resistance wire because I didn't want to disturb the factory harness. Easier to just pull it out of the firewall plug and insert another connector with a non-resistor wire. That way I was not cutting the harness, or letting resistor wire length dictate relay mounting location. The resistor wire hangs there, still taped in the harness, but disconnected at both ends.

My set-up is a bit unique anyway. I am running a '70s Chrysler inductive pickup and reluctor wheel in an early 327 cast iron points distributor. The Chrysler parts trigger a '990' Declo HEI module that is mounted to a heat sink and tucked away in a cool, hidden part of the engine compartment. This way, I get the benefit of the HEI module, and the appearance of a stock breaker point distributor.

[rfoll]

I found a pair of 40 amp relays that I will use on this setup. The choke has a fused supply, and the HEI will be operated by the resistor wire. Curiously, when I tested the resistor wire a few months ago it seemed to give me 12 volts. It's a really long wire, it will reach the passenger fender.

[Schurkey]

Curiously, when I tested the resistor wire a few months ago it seemed to give me 12 volts.

No voltage reduction if there's no current flowing. You check voltage at the end of the wire with no load on it, you'll get system voltage.

[F-BIRD'88]

You're thinking of impedance of a reactive circuit as. Opposed to simple dc resistance . Both are measured in Ohms.
Why not just find the ignition "run" resistance wire on the firewall bulkhead wiring harness pass thru connector. Remove the conector (a bolt in the center holds it in) and push the lil brass clip end connector push it out. Keep that lil clip connector. Solder a new wire onto that lil clip connector. Push it back in so it locks in again . Run the new wire from that bulkhead connector to the hei diz . Now you have a switched on run (12v) and crank (12v) without the inline resistance in the "run" position.

[ClassAct]

You're thinking of impedance of a reactive circuit as. Opposed to simple dc resistance . Both are measured in Ohms.
Why not just find the ignition "run" resistance wire on the firewall bulkhead wiring harness pass thru connector. Remove the conector (a bolt in the center holds it in) and push the lil brass clip end connector push it out. Keep that lil clip connector. Solder a new wire onto that lil clip connector. Push it back in so it locks in again . Run the new wire from that bulkhead connector to the hei diz . Now you have a switched on run (12v) and crank (12v) without the inline resistance in the "run" position.

I keep those little wire ends on the shelf and just crimp a new wire to the new end and I'm done with it. I haven't soldered a connection in better than 20 years. I had issues with soldered ends. Never with a crimped end. It could be that I'm not smart enough to solder but that's another discussion.

[rfoll]

I'm not brave enough to pull the 55 year old bulkhead plug on someone else's car. I don't disturb ancient wiring unless something doesn't work.

[In-Tech]

Is this a comedy? It's pretty funny.

[rfoll]

Is this a comedy? It's pretty funny.

Does this mean you have all of the answers?