before/after 383 dyno results
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Re: before/after 383 dyno results
Would be Interesting to try ms109. High oxygenation and bit lower octane than q16 so should be better suited
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
Unleaded? I believe that is the spec fuel for the Race Engine Challenge.
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
Some of the puller guys around here use the VP113 for an oxygenated fuel.
As per VP:
As per VP:
An oxygenated fuel formulated for naturally aspirated engines with CR up to 14:1. Offering substantial power gains at a competitive price versus a non-oxygenated fuel. May require a tuning change for optimum performance.
Somewhat handy with a die grinder.
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
VP Blue?randy331 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 22, 2019 3:20 pmYes, standard is purple and that's what the local track has but his pump says Supreme. Supreme is blue.
We used VP blue on the first session and we will use it again. It's what Joe keeps there.
I may bring some Sunoco 112 to make a pull or 2 just to see if there's any difference.
He tried some Q16 in the car, so he'd try that if I wanted.
Randy
C16?
Somewhat handy with a die grinder.
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
VP blue is C12.
VP blue is a spec fuel for some dirt classes in the north east is what vp tells me.
Randy
VP blue is a spec fuel for some dirt classes in the north east is what vp tells me.
Randy
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
Big Block Chevy on sat. Joe was busy all week, but said he'd be there sat anyway so brring it then.
Hated to ask for a second one on Sunday.
Randy
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Re: before/after 383 dyno results
DIrt specs VP D-12 as their spec fuel for BB modifieds. It's dyed yellow though, not green like the C-12 is here. According to VP, it's the same fuel, just a different color per Dirt's request.
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
Apparently C-12 is available dyed in a variety of different colors according to the VP site.
To avoid confusion, seems like it’s best to specify exactly what the fuel requirement/what you’re using is by something other than its color.
To avoid confusion, seems like it’s best to specify exactly what the fuel requirement/what you’re using is by something other than its color.
Somewhat handy with a die grinder.
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
Dyno testing order ??
What to test in what order?
Cam can be advanced some so that's in play. Can't move it a lot, but a few deg forward.
Got his headers and I'd like to try Joe's smaller dyno headers.
In general, those that dyno, what order do you test, and what could you see from some tests to make you change your testing order?
Randy
What to test in what order?
Cam can be advanced some so that's in play. Can't move it a lot, but a few deg forward.
Got his headers and I'd like to try Joe's smaller dyno headers.
In general, those that dyno, what order do you test, and what could you see from some tests to make you change your testing order?
Randy
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
Blue came about back when VP started sponsoring NHRA, C12 was one of the spec NHRA fuels so they jacked the price up to recover their sponsorship money... They started selling undied C12 as Blue at the normal price $60.00 less per drum for local people, the same happened with M-1, the lower cost version is now labeled Racing Methanol but is the same fuel thats why you don't see them on their site.thedynoguy wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2019 3:54 pmDIrt specs VP D-12 as their spec fuel for BB modifieds. It's dyed yellow though, not green like the C-12 is here. According to VP, it's the same fuel, just a different color per Dirt's request.
Another one of their unknown fuels out this year is RT105... It is a lower cost leaded 105 that may not be available everywhere.
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- thedynoguy
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Re: before/after 383 dyno results
jetting, timing, lash, carb spacers, headers. Then cam timing changes and repeat as necessary...
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Re: before/after 383 dyno results
You forgot D113 and D12 are both spec fuels for BBthedynoguy wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2019 3:54 pmDIrt specs VP D-12 as their spec fuel for BB modifieds. It's dyed yellow though, not green like the C-12 is here. According to VP, it's the same fuel, just a different color per Dirt's request.
D109 is for SB
D98 is for crates
Tom
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
Put data in a sim and hit enter?
Joe's small headers really aren't all that small though, lol. But It sounds like they are smaller than the headers that go with the car. That is one of the many things I'd like to purchase for testing, a small diameter, small collector, set of dyno headers to test with up there.
That was dawning on me when dynoing project Dale. 1.875-2.00 3.5" collector , isn't that what the smallest dyno header there is? Anyway, I think Dale would have run better with a smaller header on it but who knows. Have you considered trying Ricks tri-y's on it? I also have my Chevelle headers you could try if they fit the dyno. They are 1.75, 32ish long 3 inch collector.
I figured you would have similar or more valve to piston clearance after you were done? Sunk valves, wider lsa, slower lobes. Did the rocker ratio aggravate it, or is it on the exhaust side? Also, your welcome to try my 1050 on it if you want.
Find best timing, get the AFR in the ball park. Play with cam position some, headers and spacer plates, maybe lash.
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
I usually do the timing and carb first....... since if the carb is off it can eat up quite a bit of time sorting it out.
(Actually, I prefer to start out with one of my own carbs that I know won’t have any weird fuel curve issues. Get the timing set with my carb, then swap to the customers carb....... then revisit the timing after you’re happy with the customers carb).
I’d use the car headers first, and tune the customer carb with those on the motor.
Swapping the headers would be left as one of the last things, since they won’t be the same as what’s used in the car(unless there are plans to replace them if the current ones are leaving some real power on the table).
As for the cam, I’d have put it at 106-107 to start with, and felt like that was a pretty safe bet on something that should work well.
Then if we ran out of time and didn’t get a chance to move it, I’d be okay with it.
I guess I’m saying, I’d put it where you think it will be “best” to start with.
(Actually, I prefer to start out with one of my own carbs that I know won’t have any weird fuel curve issues. Get the timing set with my carb, then swap to the customers carb....... then revisit the timing after you’re happy with the customers carb).
I’d use the car headers first, and tune the customer carb with those on the motor.
Swapping the headers would be left as one of the last things, since they won’t be the same as what’s used in the car(unless there are plans to replace them if the current ones are leaving some real power on the table).
As for the cam, I’d have put it at 106-107 to start with, and felt like that was a pretty safe bet on something that should work well.
Then if we ran out of time and didn’t get a chance to move it, I’d be okay with it.
I guess I’m saying, I’d put it where you think it will be “best” to start with.
Last edited by PRH on Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
Somewhat handy with a die grinder.
Re: before/after 383 dyno results
You can try these if i have them finished in time. Its turning in to quite a project
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