Pulling truck engine "again" BBC

[racear2865]

If that Wiseco piston and pin weight is really legit, then a standard forged Eagle crank and a inexpensive kit rod offering may have a real problem getting to 9000rpms in one piece!

That's a tank of a piston/pin combo for a 9000 rpm BBC! Can you afford a whole new backup engine? If not build this engine a little better and STRONGER! JMO

Newold--you are totally wrong on the Eagle assm not going to 9000. Ive seen them go there several times. Only problem is they only do it once.
reed

[randy331]

It's as simple in pulling as it is in racing, "Power costs Money, How far do you want to Pull!"

That's true to a point in truck pulling, the 421 pulls a lot better than the 355 did.
More money and power helps no doubt,..
But, I know we have beat trucks with more power and with much larger budgets.
And I know a truck with less power than ours has beat us, I built his engine so I know how much it makes.


But, i agree, I'd like to see better parts in it, but if they had a $ 2000 crank, $ 1400 rods, etc in the budget, I'd suggest going big bore short stroke in an aftermarket block. That's always the problem. How much up grading do you do before it's better to just start over?


I said something to him like,.. I don't understand why these type of engines get built with stock length rods. He said how much for longer rods? Well,.. you need new pistons too then, and if you're buying pistons I'd get some with thinner rings. And now your 3/4 the way to a custom piston,.. and it needs more compression, so...now do you bolt that stuff to an eagle crank and a stock block ?

I've seen the Eagle, Scat stuff survive a lot, but at one pull this summer I seen a Eagle rod with no cap on it, but half a bolt in each side hanging out of an oil pan.


Randy

[Newold1]

There is usually only one way to get cranks rods and pistons that are rated for about 600HP max. to stay together for multiple rounds of racing when the engine is set up to produce 800-900HP. "IT'S CALLED LUCK!!" I know its half the price of the good 800-900HP stuff but you will most likely buying it twice plus time plus DNF's and frustrations. Have Fun!

[randy331]

Well,.. the crank is "rated" for 1500 HP for whatever that's worth.

Rods are 800 HP "rated" for whatever that's worth.

So 1500 + (800 x 8 rods) = 7900 HP. We should be good to go.

Randy

[randy331]

Well,.. the crank is "rated" for 1500 HP for whatever that's worth.

Rods are 800 HP "rated" for whatever that's worth.

So 1500 + (800 x 8 rods) = 7900 HP. We should be good to go.

Randy

[ijames]

I think you larned your 'rithmetic from ol Pa Kettle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kc08uS4wZhg I love those old movies.

[Newold1]

Sounds to me like you have it all figured out, so why are you asking anybody here on what to do and what will get your client in the winners circle at those pulls.

Just come back and tell us how your idea worked and how many pulling competitions this engine won!

Sorry to have taken your time trying to confuse you.

[travis]

Well,.. the crank is "rated" for 1500 HP for whatever that's worth.

Rods are 800 HP "rated" for whatever that's worth.

So 1500 + (800 x 8 rods) = 7900 HP. We should be good to go.

Randy

Seems legit. I would put more stickers on it too because those always help

[travis]

There is a phenomenon in the Hunting world I would like to explain to you. Its called Ground shrinkage. Its when your buddy shoots a hell of a buck, huge horns, probably at least 12 points and it runs off into the forest. Once it dies and the horns touch the earths surface, the actual ground or soil causes them to shrink in size so by the time you both track the deer down and find it, they are considerably smaller than the deer that your buddy has described. Probably something similar is happening with the engine you are working on, the actual horsepower or pull results are somehow askew from what the engine was advertised.

It’s because he needs a bigger gun. Deer have gotten so much tougher over the years that where a 30/30 used to drop them in their tracks, you now need at least a .300 magnum to accomplish the same thing.

[cgarb]

Very true, it's evolution. Animals are growing armor plate for shoulder bones and kevelar for hide. It's all marketing.

[randy331]

Sounds to me like you have it all figured out, so why are you asking anybody here on what to do and what will get your client in the winners circle at those pulls.

Just come back and tell us how your idea worked and how many pulling competitions this engine won!

Sorry to have taken your time trying to confuse you.

Since the crank and rods he has won't work,
What crank and rods do you use in the pulling truck engines you build at this type of power level ?

Randy

[randy331]

Very true, it's evolution. Animals are growing armor plate for shoulder bones and kevelar for hide. It's all marketing.

Well,.. the crank is "rated" for 1500 HP for whatever that's worth.

Rods are 800 HP "rated" for whatever that's worth.

So 1500 + (800 x 8 rods) = 7900 HP. We should be good to go.

Randy

Seems legit. I would put more stickers on it too because those always help

Randy

[Newold1]

Randy

My recommendation is for you to call USA Performance parts (704) 397-7979 and order their 496 balanced rotating kit with the Lunati 4.250" center counter weight crankshaft, Lunati 6.385" H-Beam rods with the ARP2000 bolts, a set of Total Seal either the AP low tension ring set # CS43690-35 or Total Seal Gold finish set # P403562 w/low tension oil ring and the CP-Carrillo +40cc domed pistons with 1/16-1/16-3/16 ring size. and the King Bearing Premium bearing set.

Align the main bore, deck the block, use ARP main bolts and finish the bores with plateau honing to Total Seals recommended best finish for RA, RK and RVK. Use a shop that can hone with deck plates and owns a good hone machine w/operator and a profilometer to set up the best bore finish.

These parts in a good bore finish block will turn over with about 15lb/ft. of torque and that will produce great power in this configuration provided its fed with a good camshaft and set of cylinder heads.

The cylinder heads should be able to flow about 375-400cfm minimum at .750-.800" lifts to make the power you want. If the Iron heads you have won't get there , consider convincing the owner to step up to some that will and use a good valve train to do the rpms you will want to use.

The 496 with these quality parts will be able to spin to 8500-9000rpms with a good valve train and camshaft and as you probably know a good quick spin up on RPMS with power and torque generally makes the best pulling engine. JMHO

[randy331]

I asked what crank and rods YOU use in the pulling truck engines you build along these lines, not who to call to get a crank.

Your suggestion would get us DQed at the first pull. 475 cube limit and oem heads.

I find it much more interesting to build engines under set rules.

Just for the record, I'm not buying the guy a crank and rods. If he says it ain't in the budget, it gets what he has. I already told him I don't like the weight etc.

My son is the only one getting free engines at this point.

Randy

[af2]

If that Wiseco piston and pin weight is really legit, then a standard forged Eagle crank and a inexpensive kit rod offering may have a real problem getting to 9000rpms in one piece!

That's a tank of a piston/pin combo for a 9000 rpm BBC! Can you afford a whole new backup engine? If not build this engine a little better and STRONGER! JMO

Newold--you are totally wrong on the Eagle assm not going to 9000. Ive seen them go there several times. Only problem is they only do it once.
reed

Yep Reed after 150+ passes at 9000 with the limit at 9800 they are junk and I should not run it in the street car it is going in>>>