Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

I have done 2 or three over the years. It does take more time but I wouldn't say it is a PITA. Unlike most blocks you don't really "have" to deck it after installing the sleeve.

BillK wrote: ↑Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:23 am I have done 2 or three over the years. It does take more time but I wouldn't say it is a PITA. Unlike most blocks you don't really "have" to deck it after installing the sleeve.

Can you share how you install sleeves in W-engine truck block without decking the block and cutting the relief?

Are you able to exactly position the sleeve so it touches the lip of the bock deck on the low side?

PackardV8 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 05, 2018 1:00 pm

Are you able to exactly position the sleeve so it touches the lip of the bock deck on the low side?

Jack,
I have some pictures somewhere. Its been at least ten years since I did the last one but I am almost certain we did exactly that or probably left it up a couple of thou and then hand finished it ? I don't remember feeling at all uncomfortable with the result. It was not a high performance or restoration type build. If it had been I would have almost certainly resurfaced the decks too.

PackardV8 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 05, 2018 1:00 pm

Can you share how you install sleeves in W-engine truck block without decking the block and cutting the relief?

I used a AMC c4 for the whole procedure, including the valve relief. Didn't have to take it off the machine, but I did have to roll it and then indicate in the deck surface to cut the sleeve flush with the deck. Generally I leave a sleeve .0005 high and file the rest flush, mainly because block decks aren't perfectly flat and that lets me match it up. Other models of this kind of machine can also deck the block as well as bore it, tho this one cannot. Far as how the larger counter bore above the piston should be, need to know how the guy is going to install the pistons. It's basically just the same thickness as the ring compressor plus a little for safety, in stock form only .060 or ,080 larger if memeory serves, and that's not enough wall thickness for a sleeve. So the sleeve is not "touching the top", because it would not be not thick enough, unless you bored the top part way bigger and that's not great, tho it would probably work.

I have sleeved them. I use a Rottler F-24B machine that levels off of the main housing bore so it cuts just like any other block. Driving the sleeve into the 15 degree angled deck is easy.

FYI watch for corrosion if that is cause of cracked cylinder. Is this at std size or has it already been previously oversized ? You may have issues with other cylinders, especially after installing a sleeve. Ultra sonic test thickness will give you a ballpark thickness guess, but pinholes dont usually show up very well.