Drivers side Holley squirter lazy

[cv67]

850 AED HO less than 50 miles. Few yrs old

Since new regardless of what squirter I use when starting to open the throttle the DS of the squirter doesnt shoot right, it kind of trickles then shoots like its supposed to.

Carb is great outside that, had good service after the fact. Not bashing the co, overall happy and would buy again.
Tried different acc. pumps, adjustments etc to no avail. If you blipped the throttle it would give a very slight hesitation, drove smooth as glass outside that. Even with 82 deg overlap this carb is great.

Sent it back as I was tired of fing with it, was told "it got a full rebuild". So I have no idea what the issue was...not happy about being nailed for a rebuild (explained the carb is damn near new!) but the guy I dealt with was out of town what can I do except pay the bill and move on.

Just curious as to what could cause this, been that way since new. Anyone experience this?

The other squirter nozzles work perfectly.

[1972ho]

Did you ever try to replace the squirter with a different one or use the primary one in rear to see if it acted the same way.It could have just been the hole.

[MadBill]

The squirter assembly is fed through the annular clearance between the squirter body's mounting hole ID and the attaching screw's OD. The discharge nozzles are both drilled into the mounting hole bore, so unless you are getting a succession of defective parts, it can't really be happening as you describe. A rough surface on the carb body at the hold down screw area shouldn't affected sealing as the gasket is quite compliant. The lower and upper (conical) sealing washers are present and functional?

How's the float bowl check valve and the pump linkage adjustment?

[6.50camaro]

Under the squirter hold down screw in the carb body is a second check valve .It is a small stainless needle seat valve that works on gravity to close . If this does not seat proper the squirter circuit will drain back to float bowl level . This can cause a slight delay in delivery of the pump shot. Just a thought . Dan

[grandsport51]

We used to drill out shooters at the track with a pin
Vise check for blockage l/r or as mentioned put the shooter on the secondary’s!
Dave B

[BOOT]

Don't drill anything out. Make sure the accelerator arm is set correct as mentioned(vids on youtube) not too tight or too loose, maybe check the pump shot passages with a wire to make sure nothing is obstructing them or at least give em a shot of compressed air. Makes sure the holes line up on the metering block gasket. AND that you are using the correct m-block gasket, had a friend who used a rebuild kit and it came with an old style gasket that has a cut out for ancient style pump shot tube that went from metering block to mainbody. Also make sure you use the correct squirter screw, aluminum mainbodies need a hollow screw while zinc bodies don't and have slots in the threads.

[cv67]

Gaskets are there carb has less than 40 mi on it. Tried different shooters same thing, adjuting floats etc.

Sent it back to mfr was told it needed a full rebuild, no answer as to why, wondering if its some kind of defect.
Been that way since new, yes pump arm etc adjusted on the $.

This thing better be right its turning out to be an expensive piece now.