Newb Many questions SBC

[F-BIRD'88]

There is no point in building this 350 with dished pistons.
Build it with flat tops and 64cc heads and 0 deck the block. If you then want to drive around cheaply on crap gas (for cruising only) limit the wot timing to say 29-30 deg. Use 92+ premium when you want power 34-36 deg timing. The power will be there.
Long tube headers are better.
A solid flat tappet like Isky 201CC1 or 201027 will make a lot more power with the tunnel ram
The carbs are fine but will need jetting.
The newer Eddy 650avs2 carbs are better for this.
The summit house branded engine rebuild kit has
Decent flat top hyper pistons in it with correct compression height 1.56.
5.7 rods are fine.
If you want something that will make a real difference put a solid Street roller cam in it.
Eg Comp K-xr286r-10 or K-xr292r-10
Howard's has very simular solid Street rollers like this too.

[Curtis Mc]

I've had this short block for about 25 years, it was sold to me as a 305 in a 86 chevy pick up. About 10 years
ago I ran across a 76 luv with V-8 mounts in it. As I can't afford a corvette for my mid life crisis I had to have it. When I pulled the motor out of the
86 it had 6 .030 pistons and 2 .040 pistons in it thus the .060 bore.

Sorry to go back a page here, but I am a little confused. Do you have a 305, or did you discover that you actually have a 350 (doesn't really say that) with the different overbores?

[pdq67]

Guys,

I guess I figure that if a block from an engine that ran fine from the factory with, "STOCK", out of spec. decks, then why bother decking her IF you are just making a street-driven, "tire-burner"!!

Sure, a more to the point, "race", engine, then deck it!

Didn't GM make over a 100,000,000 SBC's and I don't think any of them ever came from the factory with trued decks? GM just broached them and out to the assembling plant they went.

pdq67

[KnightEngines]

The block is old, the decks will not be flat - she'll need decking anyway, may as well square it up.

[madmooney]

The old .060 over 2-bolt is in the truck and been running for years. The 4-bolt block will be built as a 383 to be a little better combo with the
heads and intake. Long tubes won't fit in a stock luv. The carbs are a little rich but not by very much,topped with summit V stacks it looks
great and puts a smile on your face every time you rug it. I call this intake "The Curse of The F-Bird". This thing is the most responsive set-up
I have ever driven with low and midrange power being very strong.however I don't think this "street Ram" will perform at high RPM like a
real t-ram. I bought this because I always wanted one and F-Bird's standard posts of "put a tunnel ram on it !" the curse part of it is I don't
think I'll ever be happy with another motor without one.

[F-BIRD'88]

Tunnel Rams are the most powerful intake manifold for a typical push rod V8 and the Weiand SBC hi-ram is about right for a SBC hot Street machine. Hard to go wrong with it. The Edelbrock Street Tunnel RAM is a bit more powerful as the as cast runners are a bit bigger.

Big big torque and power right where you want it for Street strip power range. Block huggers can be improved with the collector design. To get the the best out of them.
The camshaft valve events can also be tweaked to make the best of short tube length "block hugger headers"

[F-BIRD'88]

In that context re your block hugger headers, your Howard's cam and the tunnel ram I be tempted to move the cam you have to a true verified "straight up" installed phasing 108-108 centers. collector design can foolthe engine to make the short length runner had aders act as if longer length. (Enhance midrange torque) act like a tri Y header. While being a block hugger easy fit header.
The tunnel ram and good profiler heads are a big advantage for you on this. Do not FUBAR with dished pistons.

[madmooney]

Cam is 4* advanced according to my fancy 3 position timing gear. also 1.6 comp magnum rockers so about .5 lift. I know the rockers suck but
not getting too wild with the cam they have been OK for 20 years or so now. Anyone know anything about CC's 174000 valve spring kit?
I bought a set a couple weeks ago as the current springs are hitting a brick wall about 5600 rpm now. I have a set on my 882's and they rev'ed
lots higher than I care to spin this stock bottom end,but I think my valves are a little heavier now. limiter is set at 6000-6200. I need to get a
valve height mike before I can install them.

[F-BIRD'88]

In other words you have no idea how the cam is phased.

[Baprace]

Guys,

I guess I figure that if a block from an engine that ran fine from the factory with, "STOCK", out of spec. decks, then why bother decking her IF you are just making a street-driven, "tire-burner"!!

Sure, a more to the point, "race", engine, then deck it!

Didn't GM make over a 100,000,000 SBC's and I don't think any of them ever came from the factory with trued decks? GM just broached them and out to the assembling plant they went.

pdq67

pdq67 , aftermarket oem replacement pistons will have the deck height reduced when the engine is overbored , I'm not sure of the formula, but I think if you go .030 bore the piston deck will be .030 deeper in the hole , if you use a race piston the deck will stay the same height with overbore, it's a federal law. I do find some brands will be a little shorter, some race brands with 3.48 stroke and 5.7 rod will be 1.550 height and some will be 1.560 so the engine may well need a deck correction.

[tenxal]

Cam is 4* advanced according to my fancy 3 position timing gear.

Those gear sets, while somewhat useful, do change the cam timing. The issue is: unless the cam is checked, you don't know where 'heads up' is to begin with. So, your "4* advanced" may in reality be advanced or retarded from what is normally termed 'heads up' (the mfg's spec).

Hope it makes sense.

[pdq67]

I look at cam timing this way.

Read the cam card and if it says something like 110/106, it's like 106/114 which equals 106 + 114 = 220/2 = 110/106

Whereas straight up is 110/110. I think Isky cams have historically been ground straight up through the years...

Mr. Ed, "The Camfather", himself is a proponent of straight up cams IF everything is spot-on to take advantage of their timing...


But, right!! You need to put a degree wheel and a dial indicator on it and CHECK to know for sure!!

CC's cams are usually ground with 4 degrees advance to take into account timing set wear over time.. (110/106)...

pdq67

PS., oh, and btw, the stock Chevy nylon toothed Morse chain timing set is about the best out there BUT due to the plastic, you have to watch them for breaking up. I say this because the plastic dampens the natural harmonics the engine produces in the timing/cam area. I want to say that both, "Smokey", and, "Grumpy", used them???

[F-BIRD'88]

My Isky z27 cam 201027 was degreed in and found to be 4 deg advanced. 108 LSA test checked 104/112.
Timing card specs were for 108/108 cam phasing
Yet when checked in the motor was 4 deg advanced already.

But I believe the more racier Isky Cams are in fact ground straight up with no built in cam advance. Eg: 4 deg.
You have to check this stuff.
It's up to you to get the the installed phasing right, either way. Usually a hair bit 4 ish deg of cam advance is best overall. But you can move it around for effect if you want to..... Do not depend on those multi keway timing gears being accurate in any way..

[madmooney]

I've had it in all 3 spots and it for sure runs best advanced, but wants 91 at the pump. If you retard 4* all that nice bottom end go'es right away.
I may have to spring for a SFT from Jones for the 383 after I get some parts in house and know what will be in it.

[NewbVetteGuy]

collector design can foolthe engine to make the short length runner had aders act as if longer length. (Enhance midrange torque) act like a tri Y header. While being a block hugger easy fit header.

And by this, you specifically mean a merge collector on the small side to keep velocity high or something else?

Adam