Any tricks to remove tight rod caps

[AC sports]

I've currently got an engine that's in for a strip and inspection and a refresh of bearings etc.
The rods I built it with were NOS Crower nut and bolt type I had on hand. Bolts are 7/16 .
If anyone else has used these rods they would know how tight the bolt shanks are on the rod caps.
Question is, are there any tricks to removing the caps? Logic tells me to undo the nuts until flush with bolt and use a heavy hammer alternating left and right....been doing this for an hour and nothing!

[vwchuck]

Air Chisel with the big round flat tip. Hopefully they didn't weld themselves together.

[Newold1]

PLEASE BUY AND USE A ROD VICE!

[DrillDawg]

If the rods are in the engine, no can use rod vice there, lol. Might have to have two guys beating on the both rod bolts at the same time. Maybe the big end is egged shaped, good luck.

[Tom Walker]

Might have to "tap" with a little more force. Rods may have to be reconditioned any way if they are out of round. If they are that tight, has engine experienced some kind of abuse, or something wrong with the rods on installation? Good luck.

[1972ho]

If the rods are still in the engine just take a flat head screw driver about the size of the hole and pull one side at a time and they will work themselves loose.(they are not eggs).

[PackardV8]

If they're still on the crank, loosen the nuts until they're flush with the top of the bolt. I use a 8" long 3/4" brass drift and a BFH, held up next to the head so I can be sure the stroke is straight down in line with the bolt. Let inertia do the work for you.

[AC sports]

Yes they are on the crank. Pretty sure they are not out of round or damaged. The bolt shanks are just a very tight fit on the caps.

[Tom Walker]

I say just give them a little more persuasive attention like a few have suggested. When you get them out, inspect for everything and make sure they are still measuring what they should, if so, stick them back in. Would be interesting to know how it comes out.

[pamotorman]

https://www.toolbarn.com/vaughan-c100.h ... mt_b_pdv_c_. here is what I used

[Mark O'Neal]

A light tap using Mjolner ought to do the trick

[MadBill]

Simultaneous tapping on the bolts with two brass/copper hammers (one ambidextrous hammer-er to keep them in snych) should work. Or build a Y-shaped aluminum drift, allowing you to beat on both at the same time.

[engineguyBill]

If they're still on the crank, loosen the nuts until they're flush with the top of the bolt. I use a 8" long 3/4" brass drift and a BFH, held up next to the head so I can be sure the stroke is straight down in line with the bolt. Let inertia do the work for you.

OP, use this method with reasonable taps on the bolts, alternating from one to the other after each hammer blow. Take your time, work slowly and all will be fine. After all, you are going the replace the bolts and have the rods resized before reassembling the engine, right . . . . . . . . right???

[vortecpro]

You use a 7/16 rod bolt with the nut half way on each bolt and use a hammer on the old 7/16 bolt alternating between both bolts, of course this is done in a rod vise holding the cap side. Simple.

[engineguyBill]

Rods/pistons are still in the engine and engine is being disassembled. Use of rod vise is not possible in this scenario.