Aluminum 409" W-series blocks - any experience?

[PackardV8]

My machinist wants to build an aluminum 409" stroker for his '55 Chevy pickup. We've heard some of the early production blocks were pretty sketchy, but the quality has improved.

Any of you built any of these? What to watch for? What to avoid?

If you were buying the block and stroker kit, where would you go? Anyone direct with World Products or Bill Mitchell? (Yes, we know about Lamar Walden)

Finally, anyone know of a block and/or stroker kit sitting around which won't ever get built? Always amazing how much of that stuff ends up on a shelf in the back room somewhere.

[SMITHBERGRACING]

You have only two options - Bill Mitchell or Bob Walla. The BWR (Bob Walla) is a legit 409 block, the Bill Mitchell is a glorified BBC with a 409 Deck and water pump mounting.

[Truckedup]

Maybe go to the 348-409 .com website and poke around and see who uses an aluminum block

[PackardV8]

You have only two options - Bill Mitchell or Bob Walla. The BWR (Bob Walla) is a legit 409 block, the Bill Mitchell is a glorified BBC with a 409 Deck and water pump mounting.

The rocker covers are pretty much all anyone sees, so it being a BBC underneath wouldn't bother him.

Since he's got several OEM 348" and 409" blocks and a pickup has trouble hooking much horsepower anyway, I've been trying to convince him just to build one of them.

But you know how it is with us all - knowing something new/different/better is out there is like catnip.

[bigfoot584]

This maybe of some interest, a W engine BigJoe did some years ago.
He may reconsider building one of the engines he has now.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-091 ... ine-build/

[lefty o]

This maybe of some interest, a W engine BigJoe did some years ago.
He may reconsider building one of the engines he has now.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-091 ... ine-build/

Joe isnt with us any longer.

[bigfoot584]

This maybe of some interest, a W engine BigJoe did some years ago.
He may reconsider building one of the engines he has now.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-091 ... ine-build/

Joe isnt with us any longer.

That maybe so, but we can still talk of what he did, that won't stop.
I know I won't forget many of the things he gave to us guys threw the years.

[engineguyBill]

Jack,
If your customer has several OEM 'W' engine blocks, it doesn't make much sense to use an aluminum block for his project. There is no advantage in using an aluminum block for a street rod project - in my opinion.

[PackardV8]

Jack,
If your customer has several OEM 'W' engine blocks, it doesn't make much sense to use an aluminum block for his project. There is no advantage in using an aluminum block for a street rod project - in my opinion.

For true! But then, if they only built what made sense, we'd all be out of business.

[Speedbump]

There are 434+ stroker kits around for the 348 blocks. He could have some big inches from one of his less desirable blocks and save the 409's for some high zoot resto builds. The last 348 I did I used SHOWCARS for some parts and info. I couldn't sell the customer on the stroker but they have lots of stuff. I do understand and have fallen victim to the "catnip" syndrome.

[DrillDawg]

I think you can use a BBC crank with turned down mains for a cheap stroker crank.

[PackardV8]

We looked into that, but to do it cheap, you'd have to have a crank grinder on premises and don't bill the labor. Turning the mains down .250", redressing the radius, grinding the nose down to SBC diameter, then lathing the counterweights to fit, all that makes the Chicom stroker kits seem a bargain.

[DrillDawg]

LOL, I guess cheap is relative.

[ProPower engines]

We looked into that, but to do it cheap, you'd have to have a crank grinder on premises and don't bill the labor. Turning the mains down .250", redressing the radius, grinding the nose down to SBC diameter, then lathing the counterweights to fit, all that makes the Chicom stroker kits seem a bargain.

The deal with the counterweights is to take the crank to an industrial machine shop and get them to do it.
That job is best done in a big lathe able to take larger cuts then smaller typical shop lathe that takes all day.
Also have the snout turned at the same time to your spec. size +/-.0002" that way the machinist will not get it too small if he does it last and the shaft has some heat built up in it.

Get the grinder to use a squared wheel to get it close then change the wheel if he has a selection.
If he cries about the dressing of the wheel to get the radius correct then he ain't the right guy for the job. The shop I use will do it with no issues when it comes to dressing the wheel for a nice radius which they have to do from time to time anyway.
But for what you want to do the stock radius that is on any GM BBC shaft will do the job fine

Bottom line is the cost should be $350 or less depending on where you are which is a good price compared to an aftermarket shaft.

[PackardV8]

Thanks for the clarifications and suggestions. We'd pay $350 all day, any day, but no one here wants to tackle it. We'll try a couple of other industrial machine shops. What spec do you give them for the OD of the counterweights?

Questions - with the reduced counterweight diameter and the lopsided W-pistons, is Mallory metal required for balancing?

Do you recommend external balancing using the 400" SBC front damper and flywheel?