Camming a 10.3 to 1 350

[RamblerRebel6]

Yes, I want to see the results myself.

x2
If PM is worst case then add me please.

Viewing profile - DrillDawg - Add Foe - DONE!

Right. You gotta ignore the barking dawgs.

[cjperformance]

Post your selection of a cam for a aluminum headed 350 with a 180 intake runner and that has 10.3 to 1 compression. Car is a street car with a 4 speed and 4:10 gears. Nice cruiser. Hoping for 430 horse out of a roller set up.

Camtech hydro roller that is really streetable in a 350" engine like that for a streeter.
286˚288˚ adv , 230˚233˚@.050" .526".537" with 1.5 rocker 110˚ lsa.

[Scotthatch]

Post your selection of a cam for a aluminum headed 350 with a 180 intake runner and that has 10.3 to 1 compression. Car is a street car with a 4 speed and 4:10 gears. Nice cruiser. Hoping for 430 horse out of a roller set up.

Camtech hydro roller that is really streetable in a 350" engine like that for a streeter.
286˚288˚ adv , 230˚233˚@.050" .526".537" with 1.5 rocker 110˚ lsa.

Not sure where this thread is heading right now... but


A cam like this is going to make like 461.5 HP which is past target .... that is not always a bad thing but then the question comes up as to what will the short block be OK with?

The other problem is this pushes the rpm up to peak HP at 6929 rpm and peak torque at 5364 rpm since it is manual and 410 gear in some ways that fits the car but at this point it's getting to be more of a toy then a driver

[DrillDawg]

As far as rpm goes, you don't have to go there, set your limit and that should put him right at his target.

[Scotthatch]

As far as rpm goes, you don't have to go there, set your limit and that should put him right at his target.

Other people have told me that very thing about a motor I am dealing with in my shop now ... breathing on this is too much for the short block .... but I am not a big fan of power curves that never get to peak always seems like a failure on planing .... the engine is not together yet so what's the choice ? Get a different cam ? Limit flow? Build a better short block? Or limit rpm like you said?

[groberts101]

It's not a light car.. don;'t overcam it or you'll just lose some of the more important meat of the power curve.

[Scotthatch]

It's not a light car.. don;'t overcam it or you'll just lose some of the more important meat of the power curve.

I agree ... I did a car a lot like this 14 years ago ... still driving around today ... heavy car but with gear ... not a race car but a driver muscle car ... my main thought on the cam was good useable torque in the 2000 rpm to 5000 rpm range ... so no overlap wider lobe center and advanced to get the intake breathing better at peak piston velocity while pushing the ex cycle sooner ... and it worked really well ... the car is just a joy to drive and acts and sounds like a muscle car should ... sometimes it's more about the car and driving then about getting every last HP out of it

[F-BIRD'88]

Another cam I like for this is Howards Cams mechanical street roller cam #110183-08
This one is on a 108LSA..In their catalog there are other similar choices say on a 110 LSA and or single pattern versions
This one is 269-275 237-243 @.050 .555-.555" 108/104 .022-.022" #110183-08

[DrillDawg]

As far as rpm goes, you don't have to go there, set your limit and that should put him right at his target.

Other people have told me that very thing about a motor I am dealing with in my shop now ... breathing on this is too much for the short block .... but I am not a big fan of power curves that never get to peak always seems like a failure on planing .... the engine is not together yet so what's the choice ? Get a different cam ? Limit flow? Build a better short block? Or limit rpm like you said?

If you have to much low end torque you just fry the tires, limit the top end with a rpm chip, timing retard chip, and you might want to slow the advance curve if you are still frying the tires.

[Scotthatch]

As far as rpm goes, you don't have to go there, set your limit and that should put him right at his target.

Other people have told me that very thing about a motor I am dealing with in my shop now ... breathing on this is too much for the short block .... but I am not a big fan of power curves that never get to peak always seems like a failure on planing .... the engine is not together yet so what's the choice ? Get a different cam ? Limit flow? Build a better short block? Or limit rpm like you said?

If you have to much low end torque you just fry the tires, limit the top end with a rpm chip, timing retard chip, and you might want to slow the advance curve if you are still frying the tires.

Not really what we are talking about here .........

And that seems like a convoluted way to set up a car ... to me it's like driving a square peg into a round hole with a bfh

[Scotthatch]

Another cam I like for this is Howards Cams mechanical street roller cam #110183-08
This one is on a 108LSA..In their catalog there are other similar choices say on a 110 LSA and or single pattern versions
This one is 269-275 237-243 @.050 .555-.555" 108/104 .022-.022" #110183-08

I guess the first question is this someone who is OK running valves .... my friend John does side work running valves for people that have trouble...

Second question is back to vacuum??

I also guess I was the only one that was trying to use the heads as is .... so the question becomes is replacing springs and checking retainer to seal clearance something that's OK .... we forget sometimes that what is a easy job for us is not always for someone else

[Orr89rocz]

The cam only should be big enough to get the job done. It doesnt take much for a high 5000’s rpm peak and 430 hp.

Gm crates do it with the lt4 hotcam. 218/228. Do not need anything near 230+ deg with half decent heads

[F-BIRD'88]

When you install either the Comp or the Howards street roller cams you want to also use the correct valve springs. The Comp K Kit I quoted includes the correct valve springs.
The Howards street roller cams also list their ( very similar) recommended springs etc etc.
Follow their recomendations. It is goof proof.
Setting valve lash is easy and quick and painless once you know how.
I can show you. Its all about the method. With either of these STREET roller setups they are easy on spring and the lifters and the valve lash will stay set for a long time.
They are not noisey at idle. I use the IC EO method set COLD a bit tighter than the cam card "Hot Lash" spec. You can too.

These are not racing roller cams. They are designed for the street. The springs and the cam action is relatively moderate to promote long life and great street manors.
They outperform hyd roller stuff.

[RevTheory]

Yeah, 230* is a little rich for my blood too but everyone has a little different opinion on idle quality and I tend to be a wuss

Didn't the OP specify a hyd/roller?

[Scotthatch]

The cam only should be big enough to get the job done. It doesnt take much for a high 5000’s rpm peak and 430 hp.

Gm crates do it with the lt4 hotcam. 218/228. Do not need anything near 230+ deg with half decent heads

Though as it sits with the 112 lc this cam and the head flow it would just hit the HP target the problem with this cam is the intake at .050 does not open until 3 degrees after tdc .... this I sure was done for emissions back in the 90's ... though I'm sure vacuum would be good it's probably leaving a lot of low end torque on the table and it has been pointed out its a heavy car ...

If you advance it it will do better torque wise but then will come up short on the target HP number ...

With more flow then we have this would work ....