Comp cams short travel lifters

[Mark Williams]

Im going to install a set of comp cams 15854-16 short travel bbc hyd roller lifters.
Instructions says to clean them in mineral spirits, but Ive heard theres assembly lube in the roller bearings that you want to keep for the startup? Im afraid I will clean that of if I use mineral spirits? Should I follow the instructions or just wipe the outsider clean and put them in a oil both?

Instructions says to pre load zero to 1/4 turn what would you preload them to in a all iron Engine? 1/8 or 1/4 turn?

https://static.summitracing.com/global/ ... 5850-1.pdf

[groberts101]

Personally I would never clean lifters in mineral spirits because it will be nearly impossible to remove all the residual and it will surely dilute the oil supply for a bit before it's completely flushed away. Depending on cam size/spring loads.. the bearings may not care for that temporary dilution. And if I were to try?.. I'd surely try to blow the remainder out with compressed air and soak the bejesus out of them with oil. Probably add in a few paranoia based rinse and repeats too for that matter.

I've used a few sets of those lifters in other motor platforms(SBF and SBC) and almost always use 1/8 turn. Less preload just reduces checkup interval time is all.

[cardo0]

I'll try to be the interpretor here but take it for what it's worth. Comp says clean lifters with solvent.. That does not mean soak with solvent.. But those instructions do say you can soak lifters in oil.. So I'm thinking they mean a wipe down with solvent on the outside of the lifter. You could contact Comp tech support to clarify here.

Now when adjusting preload I assume you are using locking rocker nuts instead of poly-locks for roller arms. In that case I recommend making a mark with a felt marker on the nut once you get to zero lash so you can accurately set the pre-load. Just to much slop in the wrench and socket to measure that small amount of turning. For poly-locks I'm sure you can come up with a good way to mark those too.

So now let's talk pre-load amount. If you truly know how a hydraulic lifter works you can figure out the the more preload you add the less distance the lifter plunger can travel inside and relative to the lifter body. The smaller the distance the plunger can travel the more lobe lift you save.. Yes save.. Any amount the plunger travels that amount is taken from the lobes lift. The argument for smaller lifter preload (less turning) is less room for lifter pump-up.. But that only occurs when you over-rev the engine and the lifter can't bleed down fast enough. The choice is yours but even with just 1/8 turn preload the lifter can still pump up by that amount. My vote goes for 1/4 turn and increased power.

Hope this can help.

[groberts101]

Lol.. good catch. Funny how words can have different meanings when you misinterpret them. I use nothing but acetone for all cleaning tasks.

As for preload settings.. I usually prefer to stand valves open a little less if things get out of control rather than worrying about lost power potential from losing a little extra lift. But I tend to run very tight ptv tolerances so sometimes it's a perspective thing. Either way.. it's like an extra .010" difference no matter which way you end up going with it. Not the end of the world a d much just boils down to habit.

[GARY C]

Or you can do it like Comp recommends in their video which is to soak it to clean it. What it has for shipping is to prevent rust, it's not a break in lube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thMhEjniJGg

[cardo0]

Or you can do it like Comp recommends in their video which is to soak it to clean it. What it has for shipping is to prevent rust, it's not a break in lube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thMhEjniJGg

Wow! Thx for that video Gary. But I have to mention the video did not show soaking the lifter but dunked them briefly in solvent. It did show and say to soak the lifters in oil overnight so it was fairly easy to note the difference between cleaning in solvent and soaking.

[GARY C]

Or you can do it like Comp recommends in their video which is to soak it to clean it. What it has for shipping is to prevent rust, it's not a break in lube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thMhEjniJGg

Wow! Thx for that video Gary. But I have to mention the video did not show soaking the lifter but dunked them briefly in solvent. It did show and say to soak the lifters in oil overnight so it was fairly easy to note the difference between cleaning in solvent and soaking.

I think the point is to flush out the anti rust lube, I would blow them out and allow to evaporate prior to soaking and then prelude the engine well before fire up.

[MadBill]

Interesting. Isky very specifically says not to wash out the rollers...

[GARY C]

Interesting. Isky very specifically says not to wash out the rollers...

Maybe different lube?
I always wash anything I get, if it's got oil or grease then by the time it gets to you that oil or grease has captured dirt.

[Mark Williams]

Thanks for the video!
Used several sets of morel an isky(both morel and now Johnson style) and morel isky says not to use anything to clean with because of the lube for the roller bearing. But comp could use something else in their bearings?

I have always soaked hyd roller lifters in a oilbath overnight.

[Speedbump]

Just had a first time experience with Comp hyd. roller lifters. I'm of the "don't wash" for most of the reasons stated. Noticed during inspection the push rod cups were hard or pumped up which I found somewhat unusual but not a problem. Ran through the firing order, adjusting the lifters two at a time. When I got through the adjusting cycle, I went back to #1 to check the lifter preload. There was 1/8" or more free movement of the rocker. Upon inspection, I discovered the lifter cups had gone to the bottom of travel and stuck there. All of them! Had the hot rod shop where I got the cam kit call Comp and their "drill" was washing them out. I opted out and the shop replaced the lifters, the second set which worked perfectly. I tried to get one of the "stuck" lifters to free up with brake clean, etc, but since there was zero movement of the stuck plunger, it never happened. The hot rod shop tried soaking one in race gas for a few hours with the same result. I think it's a Comp problem and I'm disappointed, thinking if one pays $400+ dollars for retro fit rollers, they should come somewhat ready to install. I'll entertain your comments and maybe learn something.

[BOOT]

I thought when I paid for new ultra pro mag rockers(one set XD) and tool steel retainers(two sets) they should be rust free. Previous and resent sets have been good but I think for awhile(couple yrs ago) comp cheaped out on w/e they used for rust prevention(or metal like the msd reluctors). I usually check anything new when I get it and if I'm not gonna use it shortly store it in oil but especially comp stuff and make sure the date is somewhat current, at least comp dates their parts. I got a few old cashew jars filled with oil and diff ratio comp roller rockers LOL Still don't get me started on the metal quality of their guideplates.... I need to make the switch to shaft setups!

[GARY C]

I thought when I paid for new ultra pro mag rockers(one set XD) and tool steel retainers(two sets) they should be rust free. Previous and resent sets have been good but I think for awhile(couple yrs ago) comp cheaped out on w/e they used for rust prevention(or metal like the msd reluctors). I usually check anything new when I get it and if I'm not gonna use it shortly store it in oil but especially comp stuff and make sure the date is somewhat current, at least comp dates their parts. I got a few old cashew jars filled with oil and diff ratio comp roller rockers LOL Still don't get me started on the metal quality of their guideplates.... I need to make the switch to shaft setups!

Back when I use to build more stuff I would put new parts in the freezer for about a week prior to final machining and Assembly, I figured that is the only thermal cycle they haven't encountered yet so why not introduce them.

[user-30257]

I thought when I paid for new ultra pro mag rockers(one set XD) and tool steel retainers(two sets) they should be rust free. Previous and resent sets have been good but I think for awhile(couple yrs ago) comp cheaped out on w/e they used for rust prevention(or metal like the msd reluctors). I usually check anything new when I get it and if I'm not gonna use it shortly store it in oil but especially comp stuff and make sure the date is somewhat current, at least comp dates their parts. I got a few old cashew jars filled with oil and diff ratio comp roller rockers LOL Still don't get me started on the metal quality of their guideplates.... I need to make the switch to shaft setups!

Back when I use to build more stuff I would put new parts in the freezer for about a week prior to final machining and Assembly, I figured that is the only thermal cycle they haven't encountered yet so why not introduce them.

Did you heat the pistons up to 600 degrees and measure them before you hot honed the block?

[GARY C]

I thought when I paid for new ultra pro mag rockers(one set XD) and tool steel retainers(two sets) they should be rust free. Previous and resent sets have been good but I think for awhile(couple yrs ago) comp cheaped out on w/e they used for rust prevention(or metal like the msd reluctors). I usually check anything new when I get it and if I'm not gonna use it shortly store it in oil but especially comp stuff and make sure the date is somewhat current, at least comp dates their parts. I got a few old cashew jars filled with oil and diff ratio comp roller rockers LOL Still don't get me started on the metal quality of their guideplates.... I need to make the switch to shaft setups!

Back when I use to build more stuff I would put new parts in the freezer for about a week prior to final machining and Assembly, I figured that is the only thermal cycle they haven't encountered yet so why not introduce them.

Did you heat the pistons up to 600 degrees and measure them before you hot honed the block?

350 when coating them, I have only hot honed 1 block but it fixed the problem that needed fixed... FYI most parts see in excess of 600 during manufacturing but none as far as I know see freezing temps until the sit in the car during winter.