Piston ring install lube

[cjperformance]

Ive heard yak gism and jp-7 at a 2 to 3 ratio works great but i think ill stick with total seal quick seat

I'll take your word for it on the yak gism!!!!!!!!

Who collects your Yak gism is the big question!!
A dab of Engine oil will do fine!

[Warp Speed]

Warp speed you question Walter about if he put in the pan what he used on the Rings and you mentioned 30 weight are you saying you race 30 WT

Basically ya.

[swampbuggy]

Thanks warpspeed !! Think it is safe to assume HMS does NOT use a shelf oil ?? Hope you would be able to answer just one question ? Straight (or) multi wt. Mark H.

[Warp Speed]

Thanks warpspeed !! Think it is safe to assume HMS does NOT use a shelf oil ?? Hope you would be able to answer just one question ? Straight (or) multi wt. Mark H.

Special formula Valvoline multi.

[swampbuggy]

Thanks warp speed I really appre
ciate it . You sharing that much! Mark H.

[engineguyBill]

Engine oil will work fine for installing pistons. Use whatever oil you are going to eventually run in the engine. Do not "dunk" the piston/ring assembly into a container of oil. I use a clean squirt can to apply oil to rings, piston grooves, skirts. etc. Cylinder walls are cleaned very throughly, then oil is spread evenly over the cylinders, with CLEAN hands.

[racear2865]

Been building engines since 1962 and over the years I have changed several how to do rings several Times. Two reasons-rings have changed immensely since then and how we prep a block has changed. Our oil and products have gotten better, so why would we not change. I had my first dyno in 1975 and I can remember how difficult it was to seat a ring. Some times, I never got rings seated on the dyno. Now days, I dont recall, ever not getting rings seated on the dyno. So why would we not use todays better technology to quickly seat the rings. But there are other issues that should be taken into account. Yes Ive seen people fire them dry. Rings seated quickly, in fact quite quickly but do you think the intense friction heat might give you micro-welding. Ive seen the other side, where people dumped piston in oil, Ive seen people use white lithium or even assembly lube. Ive come to a very educated guess, yes there are better ways than others. I now install a blow by meter to watch how quickly the rings seats and I watch water temp to see reaction. Main reason is as blow by is generated, oil temp reacts immediately. Im not a large engine builder by any stroke of the imagination but I fire approximately 100 engines per year, most are my build but some are not. And I get surprised on occasions on the differences and when I see a difference, I ask. So I got a pretty good list of donts. Then you have to separate block preparation versus other problems. Ive had then to never seat even under several hard short pulls. MY point is just cause it worked 10 years ago doesnt mean it is best now. Oops fell off my soap box.
reed

[swampbuggy]

One of my old friends who's passed away now he used to use a light oil like 3 in 1 or something similar to that just a little bit and put them in the hole. Mark H.

[novadude]

The last one I did got a few drops of total seal ring assembly lube (blue or purple -can't recall which- in a little two ounce bottle). I gave the cylinder walls a real light coat of marvel mystery oil using coffee filter (lint free) as an applicator. No apparent issues.

[Krooser]

Generally I use whatever is in my shop...engine oil, mmo, EOS, Rislone... Not picky and no problems so far. But I only do two or three engines per year.

[LSP]

Why is there a concern about putting too much assembly oil on rings?

Doesn't gravity take care of that concern before the motor is ever fired?

[groberts101]

Why is there a concern about putting too much assembly oil on rings?

Doesn't gravity take care of that concern before the motor is ever fired?

It certainly has on anything I've ever put together. And then whatever's left over gets taken care of by the bores crosshatch fuel and fire within about 3 seconds flat. At first startup rev's I'd gladly rather have a little too much oil than not quite enough. Plus, once you spin the motor over a few more times to adjust valves even more of that residual oil that was trapped behind and between the rings gets evacuated before first start anyways.

I think the other thing that gives the illusion of oil related seating issues is lack of tuning quality prior to 1st start. I've seen many guys run motors for waayyy too long without a load against the crank while they try and tune ignition and fueling, sometimes just to keep the engine running. Scrubbing rings against fuel washed bores and skirts is far more concerning to me than worrying about a few more puffs of oil smoke blowing out the exhaust during initial startup.

[gmrocket]

30w oil........

Oh dear god! Really?

Same here

[KnightEngines]

A squirt of mineral oil on the bores, rubbed around by hand.
Pistons/rings go in dry, ring lands pick up plenty from the lightly oiled bores.
Wipe the excess out with a clean rag after it's been turned over a couple of times.

Works for me so I'll keep doing it.

[user-30257]

A squirt of mineral oil on the bores, rubbed around by hand.
Pistons/rings go in dry, ring lands pick up plenty from the lightly oiled bores.
Wipe the excess out with a clean rag after it's been turned over a couple of times.

Works for me so I'll keep doing it.

Same as what I do, except 2 stroke oil on the bores. Pretty much a damp kimwipe of 2 stroke. Or thin mineral oil like you say. Rings dry.