As much as I hate to publicly agree with Headguy he is correct that every detail makes the difference.tcb3274 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:54 pmGary C and Headguy
Yes, I see what both are you saying.
My chassis is pretty much set at the moment due to funds.
I have UMI upper control arms with stock lowers. The spring is a Moroso spring and a cheap adjustable 90/10 shocks. I don't have a front sway bar and it does have manuel steering.
The brakes are stock calipers and stock rotors. I know a lot of improvement could be done in this area, but I just don't have the coin right now.
The car has poly bushings through out the car and rubber bushings in the rear control arms. The rear control arms are boxed on the lowers and the uppers are adjustable UMI pieces. The rear shocks are the cheap three way adjustables on the extra firm setting with Moroso springs in the rear as well.
Once the car is out of the body shop and get the car running with some passes I then can address the chassis a little more.
If you have more tips to give or more advice feel free to chime in!!!
A well thought out and modified stock suspension can work good, we ran Competition Engineer 3 way adjustable as we found the no name shocks like Summit sell to be soft med and firm but do not actually change compression and rebound, I ran the 90/10 up front but found my KYB gas rear to work for my combo.
I ran stock drums on my Nova because they were lighter than stock disks, I bough to sets of shoes so I could run the 2 bigger ones, sanded them to match the radius of the drum and because it was not a street car I didn't run the adjusters but set them with minimal travel but no drag and repacked the bearings with a light weight grease and set bearing load to where the tire would spin freely for longer than you would expect but would stop very well on the short shut down we ran on.
You want your control arms to move without resistance this may mean machining off the serrated edges or installing a properly sized washer and minimal preload on the nut or bolt depending on what yours has.
A small stock front sway bar set loose can help the car leave level as long as it doesn't interfere with weight transfer, we ran nitrous cars so a little extra front weight could prevent an un wanted wheelie.
Rear boxed lowers or fine, solid bushings would be best for drag racing or poly for street/strip just keep in mind that the better you get it for the strip the more it will drive like a slinky on the road, if your willing to change shocks from street to strip that will make it a little more enjoyable.