383 combo

[GARY C]

... I don't want to pay someone to port the heads for me as I enjoy doing as much of the work as possible but to be honest I don't know where to start and I am worried I will mess up a good set of heads, I have some basic porting and measuring tools...

With the will to learn and a few tools, some guidance from a book or books such as this one by David Vizard: https://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards-Cy ... 1934709646 you will be well on your way to better performance and a sense of accomplishment.

bill,
funny you should say that as i am reading davids book at the moment
how to build horsepower carbs and intakes,i have most of DV books plus a lot more in my library,and of course you are 100% correct (as usual lol)i do have the desire to learn but i spose the fear of failure is what holds me back,i purchased a bare cast dart 170cc head a while back to use as a test head and have modified a intake and exhaust port and bought a couple of different shape valves as well,i have not had it back on the bench as of yet as this thing called going to work 60-70 hrs a week gets in the way of having fun,thanks for kicking me up the backside bill it is much appreciated and i apologize for hijacking the OP thread that was not my intention

steve c

Is that the older one with the intake he built in the back of it?

[steve cowan]

david vizard 001.JPG

david vizard 002.JPG

is this the one gary??
helgesen/vizard intake,neat looking piece

[randy331]

I don't know where to start and I am worried I will mess up a good set of heads,

Steve, get some of this stuff. A look at the port shape from the outside helps.

http://www.shopmaninc.com/moldmaking.html

Randy

[GARY C]

Yep! Thats the one. I tryed to get DV to come off of that intake but he said the last time he saw it, it was under vic Edelbrocks desk, so where it is now no one knows.

[steve cowan]

I don't know where to start and I am worried I will mess up a good set of heads,

Steve, get some of this stuff. A look at the port shape from the outside helps.

http://www.shopmaninc.com/moldmaking.html

Randy

thanks randy,
i actually got some part a-b moulding rubber off fleabay a month ago
i will pour one in next couple of days and take some measurements and start a thread as i am sure there are a few guys here who will help me with starting out
thanks again
steve c

[B Original]

Nice to see some David Vizard fans around here wishing I could find some of them early how to build a horsepower books

[GARY C]

Nice to see some David Vizard fans around here wishing I could find some of them early how to build a horsepower books

Sometimes you find them used on amazon.

[tcb3274]

Anyone else want to chime in?

[user-30257]

I think you have had some good replies. 4500+ converter some good tires. And let her eat. Talk to the guys at the track. Those chevelle have been pretty scienced out for stock suspension. And modified. I'm sure finding shock valving, aluminum drums, low friction ball joints etc should be easy.

[tcb3274]

Excellent points Headguy.

[user-30257]

Excellent points Headguy.

Thanks, often times people overlook important parts of the car. Try pushing your car. Then try pushing a stocker.. You will immediately go home and rethink the horsepower part. If you are good at transmissions, you can lighten the internals, take frictions and steels out shim up the pack. Use CV2 bearing grease in the ball joints. Just the minimum on the ball joints and see how easy they articulate. There are a lot of things I could list. But then it takes the fun out of it for you.

Keep us informed how it works for you. Remember there is a chassis forum too.

[GARY C]

Excellent points Headguy.

Thanks, often times people overlook important parts of the car. Try pushing your car. Then try pushing a stocker.. You will immediately go home and rethink the horsepower part. If you are good at transmissions, you can lighten the internals, take frictions and steels out shim up the pack. Use CV2 bearing grease in the ball joints. Just the minimum on the ball joints and see how easy they articulate. There are a lot of things I could list. But then it takes the fun out of it for you.

Keep us informed how it works for you. Remember there is a chassis forum too.

What et increase should he expect from such mods?

[user-30257]

Excellent points Headguy.

Thanks, often times people overlook important parts of the car. Try pushing your car. Then try pushing a stocker.. You will immediately go home and rethink the horsepower part. If you are good at transmissions, you can lighten the internals, take frictions and steels out shim up the pack. Use CV2 bearing grease in the ball joints. Just the minimum on the ball joints and see how easy they articulate. There are a lot of things I could list. But then it takes the fun out of it for you.

Keep us informed how it works for you. Remember there is a chassis forum too.

What et increase should he expect from such mods?

That's something I can't really answer. Too many variables.
How far is the chassis lifting.
Roll out
Converter slippage.

I have seen where just a converter was worth a .200 Same stall.

I've seen .100 by modifying rear drums, front brakes on a srock eliminator. That was a Gbody.

Bottom line is these attention to detail can make the horsepower of your car really shine.

That's why sometimes you see guys at the track not run what the hp says it should. But take that engine and put it in a stocker And now it's running like it is making more.

[GARY C]

Thanks, often times people overlook important parts of the car. Try pushing your car. Then try pushing a stocker.. You will immediately go home and rethink the horsepower part. If you are good at transmissions, you can lighten the internals, take frictions and steels out shim up the pack. Use CV2 bearing grease in the ball joints. Just the minimum on the ball joints and see how easy they articulate. There are a lot of things I could list. But then it takes the fun out of it for you.

Keep us informed how it works for you. Remember there is a chassis forum too.

What et increase should he expect from such mods?

That's something I can't really answer. Too many variables.
How far is the chassis lifting.
Roll out
Converter slippage.

I have seen where just a converter was worth a .200 Same stall.

I've seen .100 by modifying rear drums, front brakes on a srock eliminator. That was a Gbody.

Bottom line is these attention to detail can make the horsepower of your car really shine.

That's why sometimes you see guys at the track not run what the hp says it should. But take that engine and put it in a stocker And now it's running like it is making more.

One of the best uses of a dyno session is to get a power curve so a company like PTC can build the best converter for your application, they are not cheep but it beats trial and error of 3 different cheep converters that still may never be right...I learned that the hard way.

Prior to building a race car I read/learned the power loss of TH400's and Ford 9" rear ends so I focused on Th350's, Power Glides and 10 bolt rear ends.

One thing I learned from testing was that going from a stock possi to a spool and C clip eliminator would slow a car by 2 tenths on a 6.4 second 1/8 mile nitrous sbc street car but a Ford big bearing end with the grease cleaned put and a light weight gear lube in it's place as well as blending synthetic motor oil and gear lube or having BND Automotive blend a light weight was worth a tenth on a well sorted out big tire 4.80 second drag car.

The chassis dyno is very good for sorting out drive train losses if your willing to put in the work and money but they are few and far between, you will probably see more gain at the track by adding a chin spoiler and blocking off the grill to aid areo dynamics. EDIT! also travel limiters to minimize wasted chassis movement.

[tcb3274]

Gary C and Headguy

Yes, I see what both are you saying.

My chassis is pretty much set at the moment due to funds.

I have UMI upper control arms with stock lowers. The spring is a Moroso spring and a cheap adjustable 90/10 shocks. I don't have a front sway bar and it does have manuel steering.

The brakes are stock calipers and stock rotors. I know a lot of improvement could be done in this area, but I just don't have the coin right now.

The car has poly bushings through out the car and rubber bushings in the rear control arms. The rear control arms are boxed on the lowers and the uppers are adjustable UMI pieces. The rear shocks are the cheap three way adjustables on the extra firm setting with Moroso springs in the rear as well.

Once the car is out of the body shop and get the car running with some passes I then can address the chassis a little more.

If you have more tips to give or more advice feel free to chime in!!!