Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

What application are super 7 retainers geared for? Most say 7 deg for flat tappet and 10 deg for solid roller. I hear some say that the super 7 is for solid roller also, some say no. I advertising for them says it actually clamps the valve more than 10deg, which makes sense from a mechanical standpoint. The larger diameter and actual angle of 8 deg would resist pull through better than standard 7 deg. Maybe stout hydraulic roller application?

Super 7 retainers are geared for super 7 locks. And likewise with the 10degree stuff. There is no need for a 10 degree lock on a mild flat tappet or roller for the matter. It's all preference.

It's all preference. Just like beadloc or square groove. I mostly use 8 and 10.

But for instant with a 6mm stem and a beehive spring there wouldn't be room for a 10degree lock and retainer combo.

I use xceldyne locks and retainers made for the psi springs I use. And if I use Pac springs I'll use Pac locks and retainers.

I hope that helped a bit.

Great advice MT Engines

I recall a written interview with Warren Johnson, where he said he preferred the super 7 locks on his stuff. If remember the article correct, he had them made for his engines, at that period in time.

tjz450 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:56 am I recall a written interview with Warren Johnson, where he said he preferred the super 7 locks on his stuff. If remember the article correct, he had them made for his engines, at that period in time.

I think I remember this too^^^^^and I think the Super 7 deal was lighter which is why WJ used them. I think they then cam out with Ti locks and it kind of made weight a moot point.

I always use 10* locks. AFAIK I've never had a failure yet.

With larger diameter springs, it's pretty much a matter of preference. The 7 degree locks are used a lot in small diameter springs and beehive springs because the center of the retainer can be smaller to accommodate those springs. That's why the 7 degree is used on a lot of LS applications.

I have used super 7 & 10* locks in ti & steel with no failures

steve316 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:05 pm I have used super 7 & 10* locks in ti & steel with no failures

That's like saying, I've never had a problem with stock retainers and locks.

Explain the application. 7 degree 3/8 valve stem 550lb seat 1400open pressure? 1.120" lift cam(NOT LIKELY) BUT STILL care to explain.

Because the problem with a statement like that is like when someone uses 7degree locks, springs and retainers supplied by a cam salesman for a .750" solid roller cam. And the locks all broke shortly after a few dyno pulls. Because the guy that sold the cam,springs locks and retainers and didn't have enough seat or open pressure to control the valves. But he assured me 115lbs seat and 390 open was enough. What was at fault the locks that turned to powder?

Like mentioned before application and preference. Just make sure you have enough spring and the right angle lock for the retainer.

Aren't the hot drop forged 7 degree locks fine for a lot of applications over the machined locks?

Of course OQT tempered and such...

pdq67

I think it depends on the locks and where they were made. I had trouble with a ford engine I built with some forged locks I got from Competition Products. They didn't fit right, I ended up trash canning them and used some that were Pioneer brand, still forged locks but they fit better and locked up tight in the retainer with little force.

with super 7 & 10* locks with 350 seat & 1020 over the nose at 9500 rpm; no problems with steel or ti locks.

I have top lock on 7 mm valves that are super seven but only have dyno time on them not like the 5/16 that have over 500 passes.

If you need 550 seat & 1400 over the nose to control the valve train you have more problems than valve locks.
Today with valves in the mid 70g and 140g springs you don't that kind of pressure even for 1.2 lift 10,500 rpms.

The 10 degree locks are easier to disassemble when it’s time to change stout springs.

Keith Morganstein wrote: ↑Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:22 pm The 10 degree locks are easier to disassemble when it’s time to change stout springs.

That depends on how much valve float they see. I just pulled apart a set of 10 degree Ti retainer and steel lock combo and I had to bash the crap out of the retainers to release those locks.
The retainers+locks were being replaced as part of the regular maintenance program as the spring package tends to float the valves after about 100 runs and beats up the retainers. But they are sure fun to get apart.