Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Posted: **Sat Feb 17, 2018 10:17 am**

If everything in an engine is set up pretty much proper what can cause a roller lifter to fail, like break an ear/ anvil or cause a snap ring to come out.

Posted: **Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:32 am**

The subject has been beaten to death here already. No final conclusion yet.

Posted: **Sun Feb 18, 2018 8:35 pm**

There is a very good chance that the quality of the lifter was sub-par ??? IF nothing was done incorrectly by the engine builder (and) the engine operator was doing his part correctly i would stand by the first line in this reply. HOWEVER one must keep in mind------NOTHING last forever, all parts must be replaced from time to time. Mark H.

Posted: **Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:08 pm**

imo the #1 roller lifter killer is improper valve lash.

Posted: **Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:43 pm**

Improper too loose lash and using a race only roller cam and valve springs on a street 'endurance"
application and loose lash. Some full race only rollers cams essentially do not really have a lash ramp. Thats why they are noisey IER at idle. Every body wants a prostock race cam in their street car or moderate bracket racer. Do not set the lash to run right at the ragged edge of the end of the lash ramp. Set it a little tighter so the lash point is never up on the flank. The lifters and valves (seating) will last a lot longer. If its a "street strip car" use a mechanical "street roller cam" not a RACE roller cam. These SR cams are designed to run for a LONG time and are easier on the lifters and valves.
You will still go fast. and a lot longer. Race stuff will need more maintenance Including lifter visual inspection and replacement/rebuild.

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:58 am**

Here is an interesting interview with Tom at 3V on valve train and spin tron info. may be helpful.
https://realtuners.com/realtuners-radio-episode-29/

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:52 am**

F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:43 pm Improper too loose lash and using a race only roller cam and valve springs on a street 'endurance"
application and loose lash. Some full race only rollers cams essentially do not really have a lash ramp. Thats why they are noisey IER at idle. Every body wants a prostock race cam in their street car or moderate bracket racer. Do not set the lash to run right at the ragged edge of the end of the lash ramp. Set it a little tighter so the lash point is never up on the flank. The lifters and valves (seating) will last a lot longer. If its a "street strip car" use a mechanical "street roller cam" not a RACE roller cam. These SR cams are designed to run for a LONG time and are easier on the lifters and valves.
You will still go fast. and a lot longer. Race stuff will need more maintenance Including lifter visual inspection and replacement/rebuild.

Define tighter lash please.

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:05 am**

Yes exhaustgases i would agree with what you said, therefore it is important to buy anything from a established company that does quality control starting with certified raw materials, some parts cost MORE for GOOD reasons. For those who are trying to decide on roller lifter brand, go to Reher Morrison's web site and see what brand they employ in their engines.

Mark

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:54 pm**

Belgian1979 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:52 am
F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:43 pm Improper too loose lash and using a race only roller cam and valve springs on a street 'endurance"
application and loose lash. Some full race only rollers cams essentially do not really have a lash ramp. Thats why they are noisey IER at idle. Every body wants a prostock race cam in their street car or moderate bracket racer. Do not set the lash to run right at the ragged edge of the end of the lash ramp. Set it a little tighter so the lash point is never up on the flank. The lifters and valves (seating) will last a lot longer. If its a "street strip car" use a mechanical "street roller cam" not a RACE roller cam. These SR cams are designed to run for a LONG time and are easier on the lifters and valves.
You will still go fast. and a lot longer. Race stuff will need more maintenance Including lifter visual inspection and replacement/rebuild.
Define tighter lash please.

Ask your cam grinder about their "Hot lash" spec and where on the lobe that that puts the actual running lash point. If it is at or near the end of the lash ramp, set the lash a bit tighter than, so that you end up with the lash point more in the middle of the lash ramp.
Reher Morrison writes about this in their engine tech articles.

Typically about .006" LESS than the cam card hot lash spec.

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:09 pm**

As a general statement but true, most people when they set the valve lash on their motor tend to set the lash too loose. It ends up a bit looser than they think they are setting it.

So for this and the previous reasons it is better to set the lash a bit tighter than spec.
If you run your camshaft on a cam doctor you can see the lash ramp.

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:19 pm**

One thing that will lead to premature roller lifter failure ( especially on a race cam with big spring loads etc) is if the lifter bore is cocked for and aft. Then the roller wheel runs cocked on the cam lobe with more load on one side of the wheel. This is real BAD. The roller wheel needs to track evenly on the cam lobe. A very slight radius of the roller wheel can help with very minor lifter bore mis alignment. A bit.

Posted: **Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:08 pm**

Not to Hi-jack here but what do you guys like to see for a min/max bore to lifter clearance for Solid Roller lifters?

Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Solid roller lifter failure

Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure

Re: Solid roller lifter failure