Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

SOO I purchased a Rodec block I was hoping to run a Wet sump oiling there is no provision for a filter and I think I have that figured out, Maybe. The rear cap is drilled for an oil pump but the hole looks small. I was seeing if others might have insight on this. Thank you for any feedback.

I have a Rodeck block at the shop right now that a customer brought in just the other day. That one doesn't have a cap that's drilled so he's planning on running a dry sump. There must be a lot of variations in those blocks with a bunch of options etc. Otherwise his is pretty much like a Chevy 400 block except for the cam bearings.

Dave, thanks for the quick reply. I am wondering about the rear cap. I will investigate more.

Run a single stage belt driven pump with an external pickup line running to a pickup in the wet sump & plumbed back into the block like a dry sump pressure stage.

Peterson does a nice setup.

UUUUG ... No room in my 33 Willys chassis. Until I have it mounted at least. It is tight.

KnightEngines wrote: ↑Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:17 pm Run a single stage belt driven pump with an external pickup line running to a pickup in the wet sump & plumbed back into the block like a dry sump pressure stage.

Peterson does a nice setup.

This is about the best advice you'll get. Every Rodeck small block I have seen is devoid of any provision for a wet sump internal pump system.

Few shops have the necessary skills, tooling, and information to convert one of those blocks, and honestly, those blocks are not worth the effort. They were notorious for cracking in the main webs.

The one Rodeck small block I converted for street use had the system described above. I did it with a Moroso pan and parts.

shoedoos wrote: ↑Thu Jan 18, 2018 2:43 am https://evansville.craigslist.org/pts/d ... 27588.html

Ad states "needs to be lined bored"

#4 main looks welded

That is not the block I have. The block came with the main bearings in it and are perfect. But it is a 1996 block without the valley struts. the bore is also very good and no damage at all I can see. I will look into the oiling issue using the Peterson.

I've welded up a couple of them that have cracked the mains (both broke cranks & pounded the mains hard).
It's a 100% sh|t job!

Cut out the crack, preheat & weld, peen welds, dress welds, peen again.
Then remachine all the damn cap recesses coz the block is out of true after being beat up & welded - I skimmed the entire bottom of the block to true it, then recut the cap recesses to the right depth. Then it can be line bored - & you better have good tooling coz the damn steel caps will make chips that carve up the alloy & you can't really line hone much as the hone will favour taking out the alloy.

KnightEngines wrote: ↑Thu Jan 18, 2018 5:34 pm I've welded up a couple of them that have cracked the mains (both broke cranks & pounded the mains hard).
It's a 100% sh|t job!

Cut out the crack, preheat & weld, peen welds, dress welds, peen again.
Then remachine all the damn cap recesses coz the block is out of true after being beat up & welded - I skimmed the entire bottom of the block to true it, then recut the cap recesses to the right depth. Then it can be line bored - & you better have good tooling coz the damn steel caps will make chips that carve up the alloy & you can't really line hone much as the hone will favour taking out the alloy.

My block is not the one shown. I bought it last year for a new build. Everything looks and mics perfect. I am just at the point of how I am going to oil it.

Yeah I know yours is good, just warning others not to buy a cracked one unless they want a headf*ck!
That one for sale is cheap for a reason - PITA getting those mains sorted.

A thread on Roedeck's bought back memories of fighting with a couple of them.
One of the ones I had to weld was pretty used up, but back then they were a $$ thing & replacements weren't easy to get over here - I spent a day helicoiling pretty much every damn thread in the thing - double helicoils in most holes. Remachined pretty much every working surface on that one, it wasn't cheap, but it turned out good.
The other was near new & mint other than the cracked mains.

Knight, thanks for your input. The Canton pan showed up yesterday and I will start the oiling deal.

I have one here now with a hole in the side the size of my fist. Am welding up now and I too worrying about line hone as Ive done 2 before and they are a bitch. You could get a cap drilled for oil as I had one here recently. They would do about anything you wanted on request.
reed