Upgrading to 3/8” fuel lines and pick up...more questions

[travis]

Sorry guys...more questions...

I think I have decided to eliminate the 2nd fuel tank on my truck (for several reasons), so I just want to upgrade the fuel lines from 5/16” to 3/8” from the rear tank to the engine mounted mechanical fuel pump. Since this is a street vehicle, should I only use steel or stainless lines? NPT or AN fittings? Can you even use steel lines with AN fittings? I’m concerned about long term durability with the ethanol laced fuels, so I’m thinking steel or stainless fittings would be better?

This will be an all new fuel system from pickup to carb...but the fittings are just confusing the hell out of me

[SupStk]

I'm upgrading the fuel system on the Mustang. I chose stainless 3/8" in a roll and bending it to fit. Mine is going to be a one piece deal from the tank to mechanical fuel pump. There will be hoses connecting them but from the pump to carburetor is getting AN fittings and 37° flares. I'd like the fittings to be stainless but if I have trouble finding whats needed I'm sure anodized aluminum will work.

[Cougar5.0]

I ended up with -6 teflon braided steel hose. Flexible, low friction to flow, abrasion resistance, chemical (alcohol & most all automotive) resistance & uses easy to work on -AN fittings. Getting the -AN fittings on is a PIA and you can't use just any fitting for a rubber hose. Overall glad I chose this solution as when I switched to the 428W from the S/C 302, I was able to easily cut, reroute and re-fitting the existing line.

[travis]

I'm upgrading the fuel system on the Mustang. I chose stainless 3/8" in a roll and bending it to fit. Mine is going to be a one piece deal from the tank to mechanical fuel pump. There will be hoses connecting them but from the pump to carburetor is getting AN fittings and 37° flares. I'd like the fittings to be stainless but if I have trouble finding whats needed I'm sure anodized aluminum will work.

That was what I had in mind, but shouldn’t there be a filter between the tank and the pump?

On your AN fittings...do you just use a compression adapter?

[travis]

I ended up with -6 teflon braided steel hose. Flexible, low friction to flow, abrasion resistance, chemical (alcohol & most all automotive) resistance & uses easy to work on -AN fittings. Getting the -AN fittings on is a PIA and you can't use just any fitting for a rubber hose. Overall glad I chose this solution as when I switched to the 428W from the S/C 302, I was able to easily cut, reroute and re-fitting the existing line.

I’ve thought about using that type hose but wasn’t sure what kind of life expectancy you would get out of something like that.

I hate stainless braided hose...my fingers usually end up looking like I went hand to hand with a porcupine. But what about those “push lock” hoses and fittings? May be a better/easier option?

[SupStk]

I'm upgrading the fuel system on the Mustang. I chose stainless 3/8" in a roll and bending it to fit. Mine is going to be a one piece deal from the tank to mechanical fuel pump. There will be hoses connecting them but from the pump to carburetor is getting AN fittings and 37° flares. I'd like the fittings to be stainless but if I have trouble finding whats needed I'm sure anodized aluminum will work.

That was what I had in mind, but shouldn’t there be a filter between the tank and the pump?

On your AN fittings...do you just use a compression adapter?

Yes there needs to be a fuel filter in the system somewhere. I have a Carter pump on my 289 that has the fuel filter built in. Its actually a filter canister thats part of the pump.

I have 1/4" npt to -6 adaptor on the pump. The carb end has holley fitting to -6. The line will have AN nuts with tube sleeves.

The hoses to connect the fuel line to the sender and to the pump is going to be regular 3/8" fuel hose.

[grandsport51]

Just use press lock Hose
I like Parker use it to replace a lot of dumbass hard plastic lines
On late model cars
837bm is recommended for autos
http://ph.parker.com/us/en/push-lok-low ... m-6-blk-rl
Then select from dozens of fittings

https://www.shopcross.com/hose-fittings ... k-fittings
EASY just use enoughAdel clamps!
Done
Dave B

[Cougar5.0]

I ended up with -6 teflon braided steel hose. Flexible, low friction to flow, abrasion resistance, chemical (alcohol & most all automotive) resistance & uses easy to work on -AN fittings. Getting the -AN fittings on is a PIA and you can't use just any fitting for a rubber hose. Overall glad I chose this solution as when I switched to the 428W from the S/C 302, I was able to easily cut, reroute and re-fitting the existing line.

I’ve thought about using that type hose but wasn’t sure what kind of life expectancy you would get out of something like that.

I hate stainless braided hose...my fingers usually end up looking like I went hand to hand with a porcupine. But what about those “push lock” hoses and fittings? May be a better/easier option?

I've read claims of no wear out mechanism for teflon hose. The old hose I adapted to my new engine was at least 5-7 years old, but there's no way to tell other than the steel braid might get dirty.

I don't like doing the fittings, but the real key was do not buy Earl's 'Swivel Seal' type - they attempt to cut into the teflon, which is nearly impossible. I not only gave up after fighting with one fitting for 45 min, but I removed and replaced the Earl's that I had already done as I didn't trust them to hold. Use Summit/Russel type that use a tapered threaded tube that you push while turning and it threads it's way into the ID of the teflon while expanding it a little. If you are careful cutting the braided hose, use a cutter/grinder wheel on your angle grinder to clean up any loose braid (or just use the angle grinder and cutoff wheel to cut the hose), that's half the battle - starting with a clean cut hose.

[SupStk]

Cougar it sound like you are using fittings designed for steel braid rubber hose on the teflon hose.
The teflon fittings I'm most familar with are Aeroquip. There is a ferrule that slips over the liner and under the steel braid. Then the hose liner is slipped over the tube portion of the fitting. Last the nut is threaded into the fitting to tighten and compress the ferrule into the fitting and capture the outer braid. Its very easy and almost foolproof if the right fittings are used with the proper hose.

[Cougar5.0]

Cougar it sound like you are using fittings designed for steel braid rubber hose on the teflon hose.
The teflon fittings I'm most familar with are Aeroquip. There is a ferrule that slips over the liner and under the steel braid. Then the hose liner is slipped over the tube portion of the fitting. Last the nut is threaded into the fitting to tighten and compress the ferrule into the fitting and capture the outer braid. Its very easy and almost foolproof if the right fittings are used with the proper hose.

Yes, I have fittings like that as well, I would recommend those. I found it confusing as to what fittings to use with which hose, thus I tried to use the Earls swivel-seal (because I had some handy) not knowing they won't work with PTFE. I did also use the non-ferrule type because I saw others using them with PTFE hose, and they don't leak, though I wouldn't use them in a system that requires the full 2500psi rating of the hose. Make sure you buy fittings that say they are for PTFE hose.